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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 04-11-2020, 11:54 PM   #15
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the tensioner bouncing isn't really a cause, it's not really a symptom either. it's doing its job.

tensioners take up the slack. if you rev any other motor, you'll see the tensioner bounce momentarily as the crank pulley yanks on the belt. that's what's happening here, except all the time. because what is literally happening is the crankshaft is speeding up and slowing down drastically over a very short time. some moments, there's slack, other moments, there's not. and the tensioner pully is adjusting for either scenario.


the answer here is you're screwed one of two ways.

1. pay to take the motor apart. in the first video, it sounds like a connecting rod slapping around, which would be an out-of-tolerance bearing. if you can prove it's related to the recall and not a user error, despite the fact that they already noted a low oil level, all the costs will be covered. but it takes some investing of ghost money.

2. install a used motor, costs more than option 1, but ensures you wouldn't be on the hook for a $10k motor install on top of a $1500 diagnosis. discuss core charges, or consider selling the old motor to recoup a small amount of funds--if the blocks bearing surfaces are still good(meaning the connecting rod and crankshaft are the problem), some rebuilders might be interested in it.
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Old 04-11-2020, 11:56 PM   #16
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Think that might be it? Is there a way to see if it's broken?

That's a good idea with the belt might try that in the morning
Check in the service manual linked in Ultramaroon's sig bar.
It should be an easy fix.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:00 AM   #17
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You could get a mechanics stethoscope to try to track down the ticking more precisely. The thing you touch with it that makes the noise the loudest is probably broke.
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Old 04-12-2020, 12:05 AM   #18
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I'm gonna be so damn happy if it's actually the vaccume pump. I found a vid of someone with very similar noise and it was the vaccume pump. For the cost compared to an engine is say it's worth a try replacing it, worse case I have a new one. Install seems simple enough also
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Old 04-12-2020, 01:07 AM   #19
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The ATF in the crankcase trick i remember was something people did for sticking/ticking valves... but humfrz would know more about that

If it was on the bottom dot on the dipstick it was a quart low iirc. I would probably pull the oil drain plug and inspect the oil and see if anything is floating around in it.
REALLY! Oh, wait one, that just might work with the old hydraulic lifters - but, that's more in @Tcoat s era.
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Old 04-12-2020, 01:12 AM   #20
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You could get a mechanics stethoscope to try to track down the ticking more precisely. The thing you touch with it that makes the noise the loudest is probably broke.
Well ........daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa!

(sorry, I only had a short nap today)
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Old 04-12-2020, 01:13 AM   #21
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REALLY! Oh, wait one, that just might work with the old hydraulic lifters - but, that's more in @Tcoat s era.
I have never once poured ATF into an engine that would run (or even turn over I guess) but Have poured gallons of the stuff into the sparkplug holes of barn finds and field cars that were seized solid from sitting. Probably had about a 70% success rate of saving the engines.
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:25 AM   #22
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I'm gonna be so damn happy if it's actually the vaccume pump. I found a vid of someone with very similar noise and it was the vaccume pump. For the cost compared to an engine is say it's worth a try replacing it, worse case I have a new one. Install seems simple enough also
Use the right stuff to seal the new one. Get the surfaces completely de-greased before applying the sealant. Taking time to get it right beats cleaning up an oil leak and doing it over.
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Old 04-12-2020, 07:08 AM   #23
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I would just get a reliable used engine and swap the whole engine. These engines are too much work to take apart, too tricky to put together. It is not worth the trouble compared to swapping the engine unless you want to rebuild it

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Old 04-12-2020, 09:49 AM   #24
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An easy way to check the timing of the tick is to use a timing light. If the tick is in time with the light it is probably a valve issue, if twice as fast a rod, if random an accessory.




edit: I know someone is going to say no dist, use a noid on the wire to the coil pack or use an extension with a spark indicator on the coil output. It is the principle of watching the light timing VS the sound.




Heck, put a paint mark on the crank pully and use a long screwdriver to listen and watch.

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Old 04-12-2020, 11:49 AM   #25
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Use the right stuff to seal the new one. Get the surfaces completely de-greased before applying the sealant. Taking time to get it right beats cleaning up an oil leak and doing it over.
I'm probably going to order the part tomorrow and I'll definitely do that.


Alright I did some more stuff. Took a rev video, a warm up video, and did some very effective screwdriver listening.

Warm Up


Revs


I did put the screwdriver on the vaccume pump and you can clearly hear the tick through it. Weather or not it's the source not sure but you can also hear it deep in the center of the engine, on the top of the front of the engine under the intake manifold. Could just be the normal sound I suppose people talk about with these engines. I always thought it was the right side but when my mechanic looked at it he was pretty sure the source was passenger side back.
I also tried the timing light with my phone and an app but it wasn't quite lining up with the mark.
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Old 04-12-2020, 02:37 PM   #26
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Textbook vacuum pump failure. Did you find the relevant section in the service manual? It's in an odd place.





https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...0159C017X.html
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:19 PM   #27
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Textbook vacuum pump failure. Did you find the relevant section in the service manual? It's in an odd place.





https://demos.starbase7.net/t3Portal...0159C017X.html

I was actually gonna ask, was looking through it and didn't see it. THANK YOU for the help I'm really thinking this is it. My brake pedal is also a rock and sounds like that's another symptom. I'm ordering the part and I'll install when I get it and definitely update
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Old 04-12-2020, 03:24 PM   #28
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I was actually gonna ask, was looking through it and didn't see it. THANK YOU for the help I'm really thinking this is it. My brake pedal is also a rock and sounds like that's another symptom. I'm ordering the part and I'll install when I get it and definitely update
Your brake pedal is a rock because your vacuum pump failed.




...but you should do the engine swap just to be sure.
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