Replacing Struts and Installing Coil Springs

[whataboutbob]

Thanks to the OP for this post. I referred to it more than once this weekend while I was installing my RaceCompEngineering Yellows and a bunch of Whiteline stuff.

One thing I'd add is that the OEM springs don't have a huge amount of preload. I was able to remove them by myself, and the top had barely popped off once I spun the nut off. The RaceCompEngineering Yellows are 20mm shorter (i think) and I was able to mount them and start the nut on the shaft by hand easily.

[Bluecille]

Originally Posted by DarrenDriven

mechaghost, just drive down to Portland and I'll do it for ya. Just bring me a case of microbrew.

What a deal. I'd bring one for after we finished and one for helping. To bad I live on the east coast. Where are the kind folks over here?

[Dezoris]

Can you please re-do this DIY and add some explosions and nudity?

Good job.

[Kuzuri]

so, i have my springs compressed and im trying to take off the 17mm nut holding the top hat on the strut. Its just spinning the whole assembly on the inside. what should i do?


nevermind.. i didnt read through everything. durr.

[FRSFirestorm]

Originally Posted by DarrenDriven

Section Two: Removing and Replacing the Front Strut




22: Here is my shadetree system for removing a spring safely from a strut. The spring is under pressure and if you just unbolt the top then it will likely shoot off. With a wheel pinning the strut against an immoveable object, and a 2nd person using their foot to push against the wheel, you don't have to worry about any violent action. Additionally, I use an additional piece of plywood over the spring that I stand on just in case it wants to move up. (see plywood being held at top of photo) These springs did not have much potential force and unbolting the top bolt with a deep 14mm socket was very anticlimactic. This method ONLY works with an air impact wrench.

I'm getting prepared to change out my springs. I plan on doing the spring compressors and pass through ratchet to remove the top hat.

I didn't have a pass through ratchet so while in Lowe's today I bought one, along with extension and 14mm socket based upon this information. For giggles when I got home I popped the rubber boot on top of the front strut and tried the setup. 14mm didn't fit. Need a 17mm socket for the top nut.

[FRSFirestorm]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

My top nuts now seem to be at least 41 ft-lbs although I think it's possible they are over-torqued from my impact wrenching.

Good info. I was wondering how the heck I was going to torque the nut.

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by FRSFirestorm

I'm getting prepared to change out my springs. I plan on doing the spring compressors and pass through ratchet to remove the top hat.

I didn't have a pass through ratchet so while in Lowe's today I bought one, along with extension and 14mm socket based upon this information. For giggles when I got home I popped the rubber boot on top of the front strut and tried the setup. 14mm didn't fit. Need a 17mm socket for the top nut.

14mm for the rear, 17mm for the front.

[FRSFirestorm]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

14mm for the rear, 17mm for the front.

Ah, that makes sense. Thank you sir!

[Mo707]

Thanks for this DIY!

[wparsons]

I didn't read the whole thread, but there's another "easy" way to get the top mount off of any macpherson strut vehicle. Just loosen the top strut nut off with the weight of the car on the wheels and totally remove that nut, THEN follow the rest of the steps. With the weight of the car on the wheels the strut won't budge, but as you jack it up the spring will decompress and will be easy to remove.

Doesn't help with older hondas or the rears here though

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by wparsons

I didn't read the whole thread, but there's another "easy" way to get the top mount off of any macpherson strut vehicle. Just loosen the top strut nut off with the weight of the car on the wheels and totally remove that nut, THEN follow the rest of the steps. With the weight of the car on the wheels the strut won't budge, but as you jack it up the spring will decompress and will be easy to remove.

Doesn't help with older hondas or the rears here though

That can be dangerous btw. I have seen springs shoot off using that method. The rates on these cars probably aren't high enough for that but it's definitely not the most controlled method of spring removal.

[ZC6BRZ]

@DarrenDriven

I didn't have to remove the top abs clip. It has a latch that allows the ABS line to come free.
On the bottom clip, only the top and bottom had to be squeezed. Just pushed a little with my flat tip screwdriver.



Since there's more than one way to skin a cat:

I also removed the rear sway bar end links because it made for an easier solo install.
Using a jack under the rear lateral link was helpful in lining everything up.

[wWaldo]

Im guessing if you bought coils overs all you need to do is just swap?

[ZC6BRZ]

Originally Posted by Stefano@***************

Im guessing if you bought coils overs all you need to do is just swap?

Depends on the coilover. Some use stock strut tops. Some you need to adjust preload.

But for the most part, yes.