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Old 07-21-2024, 07:42 AM   #1
Theodorable
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Turbo setup questions

Hello. So I bought a turbo kit and had no instructions besides a low quality picture. I figured it all out and learnt a lot about how turbo systems work in researching things to make sure I’m installing everything correctly. With that being said, the previous owner had his turbo clocked upwards and I did mine the same but piped it to the intercooler differently. My only concern is the oil return line. Since it’s turnt vertical the oil return line is turnt horizontally but a little up. And was wondering if that was acceptable to do since every normal turbos have the return line facing down, if not lmk why and how I should reclock/position the turbo. I’ll show pictures of the previous set up from previous owner and my set up. Also you’ll see I use the OEM throttle boot, it will not be in contact with turbo since I’ve purchased a turbo cover.

I mocked up the turbo and piping to see if I need to do any adjustments to length etc, still waiting on the JDL oil pan

Turbo specs
CX racing manifold and exhaust parts

Turbo (rev9 tx-50e-57)

Additional questions
Do I have to remove the rust off the hotside turbo? If so would an automotive machine shop do it?

I positioned the MAF senor in between the turbo and the intake. I see that people have theirs by the throttle body, I’ve seen/read that my way of setting it up was also ok. Lmk!


https://imgur.com/a/thqq4Nw
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Old 07-21-2024, 10:54 AM   #2
DarkPira7e
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You need to have the CHRA oriented so the feed and drain are completely straight up and down. This absolutely will not work. If you loosen the bolts connecting the CHRA to the inlet, you can spin it and re-tighten them to change the orientation while not adjusting the CHRA angle. Your only challenge with this is that on non-vband turbos, you can't tighten the bolts easily to connect the turbo to the manifold.

Our cars have the MAF close to the throttle because it's much more accurate. You don't want to have your vehicle tuned based on pre-intercooler airflow. Ditch the re-used OEM rubber and just make a bend there and put the MAF where it needs to be. Ditch the BOV if it's a pain to plumb in (I ran mine without BOV with no issue on my own hacked up CX racing kit)

I attached a few photos of my old setup. Shorten that feed line and don't bother connecting it until everything is golden
Rust on the turbo is no issue
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Turbo FR-S Build - Build Thread
JDL EL Recirc manifold, Boostlab BL58x Turbo w/ T51R, 17x9 ARC-8, IAG block

Last edited by DarkPira7e; 07-21-2024 at 11:16 AM.
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Old 07-21-2024, 02:41 PM   #3
Theodorable
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My goodness are you such a goat. Thank you for informing me on everything on how it should be done correctly. I’m going to buy everything I need to do to fix this right now. Ooo so with no BOV the turbo flutter will be more noticeable?! I’m planning on running 7-8psi so my turbo should be good yeah?

Btw do you delete the ventilation hose on the throttle body boot? If so do I just plug it up?

Do you also know what bolts you used to connect the turbo to manifold? When I bought this kit it didn’t come with anything to mount the turbo to manifold or down pipe to turbo

Last edited by Theodorable; 07-21-2024 at 04:01 PM.
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Old 07-22-2024, 07:54 PM   #4
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Updated the intake/throttle setup looks a lot cleaner and I feel more comfortable on how it’s set up now. No more BOV and MAF sensor is positioned nicely. The feed and drain line is now fixed vertically but at a slight angle but a way lot better that side to side…

Only question for now that I have is what do I do with this line? (Pic is shown in the link)

https://imgur.com/a/yQKyoXW
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