Brake rotor wear after 3 track days

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by racingfool

That's what it's for.

Most drivers these days don't have a clue about threshold braking.

Sure, if the ABS is a motorsport ABS system. The factory ABS system is not that.

[CSG Mike]

This is what a deeply cycled rotor looks like, without overheated pad. Notice there is no streaked/melted pad on this rotor.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You'd be surprised how many folks swear they don't use ABS, and then I see 1000psi braking system pressure.

More importantly, he's not fully disengaging traction control, so even if he's not activating ABS during braking zones, the car is still nudging the brakes to 'correct' vehicle movement, which is likely contributing to the heat checking issue.

New cars are anything but "push a button and it's off" anymore.

[soundman98]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

This is what a deeply cycled rotor looks like, without overheated pad. Notice there is no streaked/melted pad on this rotor.

For the record-- those rotors are still considered good, or is that considered end of life?

[racingfool]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Sure, if the ABS is a motorsport ABS system. The factory ABS system is not that.

I was kidding.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by soundman98

For the record-- those rotors are still considered good, or is that considered end of life?

Crazing is getting too close to the edge of the rotor. I wouldn't run them; the pics are from when I swapped them out.

[CSG Mike]

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bck5ea0lWkH/

Some badly overheated pad (pads were insufficient for use).

[Edkwok99]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You'd be surprised how many folks swear they don't use ABS, and then I see 1000psi braking system pressure.

I didn’t experience brake fade and soft pedal.
I didn’t feel the ABS kicking in (no vibration brake pedal and no front tires slipping and grabbing)

Would you please educate me how Anti lock braking system (ABS) could contribute to this?
I do not trail brake and always brake at a straight line. The track days were all on dry surface. I do not slammed on the brake and dive bomb. My inputs are smooth.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Edkwok99

I didn’t experience brake fade and soft pedal.
I didn’t feel the ABS kicking in (no vibration brake pedal and no front tires slipping and grabbing)

Would you please educate me how Anti lock braking system (ABS) could contribute to this?
I do not trail brake and always brake at a straight line. The track days were all on dry surface. I do not slammed on the brake and dive bomb. My inputs are smooth.

You still overheated the pad. We can see it in the difference in color on the rotor. Can also see in the rotor that the center of the pad was getting way hotter than the outer edges and there is uneven transfer. I don't see ABS engagement on it but CSG Mike is far far more experienced at that stuff then I am so

[WNDSRFR]

Can somebody explain to me what ABS actually is?
I thought it was an anti-lock brake system that pulses the brakes to prevent them from locking up?
I thought that the system is always on and is always engaged.
You mean you can turn it off? Why would you do that?
It wasn't that long ago that ABS did not exist.
Back in the day, if you slammed on the brakes, you would going merrily sliding out of control. Happened all the time.
It's one of the best safety features of our time.
So how do you turn it off? Pull a fuse?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by WNDSRFR

Can somebody explain to me what ABS actually is?
I thought it was an anti-lock brake system that pulses the brakes to prevent them from locking up?
I thought that the system is always on and is always engaged.
You mean you can turn it off? Why would you do that?
It wasn't that long ago that ABS did not exist.
Back in the day, if you slammed on the brakes, you would going merrily sliding out of control. Happened all the time.
It's one of the best safety features of our time.
So how do you turn it off? Pull a fuse?

It pulses pressure and can reduce pressure. Combined with stability and TC it can also independently brake a wheel to correct slip angle. I am sure modern systems have more capability than that, that is just the rough overview.

You can disable by pulling the fuse, or through can communication like what geraldjust has done. I imagine techstream may be able to disable it as well.

[dsc_pat]

this is taking an unexpected proportion for something very simple

hawk dtc will do these kind of deposits, everyone who used them knows. everything is normal, what more do you need to read ?

you 100% engage abs sometimes, and it is ok

end of thread.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by dsc_pat

this is taking an unexpected proportion for something very simple

hawk dtc will do these kind of deposits, everyone who used them knows. everything is normal, what more do you need to read ?

you 100% engage abs sometimes, and it is ok

end of thread.

It’s a good indicator of either driver error or you are outpacing the pad.

Here is CSG spec pad. Even transfer layer, pretty even rotor contact.

[Edkwok99]

Originally Posted by dsc_pat

this is taking an unexpected proportion for something very simple

hawk dtc will do these kind of deposits, everyone who used them knows. everything is normal, what more do you need to read ?

you 100% engage abs sometimes, and it is ok

end of thread.

I need to know if I should replace the rotor immediately as stated in my original post.

Are you saying Antilock brake system did this to the rotor? If yes, I disagree totally. I think you are confused with ABS and TRAC/VSC.