Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Randoman5]

Has anyone used the Harrop oil cooler with this kit? It seems like the best solution if you're going to drive the car hard on the track.

[GPhilly]

Never done a complicated install like this before.

Anything I should know before doing it? Most advanced thing I have done are coilovers and headers/catback. Planning on purchasing the kit in a few months.

I read through the manual a couple times and it seems fairly simple, just time consuming. Looks like its just replacing bolts/hoses/gaskets. I also started purchasing some of the tools at the beginning of the pdf instructions.

What other advice/tips would you guys recommend?

[Auto_egr]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

Never done a complicated install like this before.

Anything I should know before doing it? Most advanced thing I have done are coilovers and headers/catback. Planning on purchasing the kit in a few months.

I read through the manual a couple times and it seems fairly simple, just time consuming. Looks like its just replacing bolts/hoses/gaskets. I also started purchasing some of the tools at the beginning of the pdf instructions.

What other advice/tips would you guys recommend?

I read through this whole thread before installing but here's my summary based on memory. Buy an o-ring lubricant like petroleum jelly to lube the injector O-rings and manifold gasket before install. Install the intercooler hoses on the back of the blower manifold before placing it on the head. Definitely have a friend (or engine crane) to help gently place the blower on the head and do not slide it around much or the gasket will rip. If your gasket is higher mileage I would get a new one from the dealer for piece of mind. The hose clamps that come with the kit are good, but difficult to work with (especially for the lines on the snout of the blower). I replaced those with worm gear clamps which solved a vacuum leak. Prime the injectors at least twice (accessory mode) before attempting to start the car and check for leaks. If I think of anything else I will respond again.


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[Hurricane Nate]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

Never done a complicated install like this before.

Anything I should know before doing it? Most advanced thing I have done are coilovers and headers/catback. Planning on purchasing the kit in a few months.

I read through the manual a couple times and it seems fairly simple, just time consuming. Looks like its just replacing bolts/hoses/gaskets. I also started purchasing some of the tools at the beginning of the pdf instructions.

What other advice/tips would you guys recommend?

Don't rush doing the install.

When you connect a piece of equipment make sure you do all the connectors (looking at you alternator). Some people don't like the provided rabbit ear hose clamps, you may want to get worm clamps if you don't like them. Get silicon lubricant for the gaskets, I also used the silicon lube when applying the hoses(just a dab on the inside), makes them waaaay easier to put on. You don't need the rivet nut tool or the 10mm drill bit. I would look into a different mounting solution for the Injector Controller module (called ECM in install manual), as I think it looks better to remove both injector covers (I had to grind tabs on the injector cover down a bit so that they wouldn't touch the intake). I also chose to grind the mounting bracket for the LTR surge canister (made the bracket fit just a bit better).

Read @Jerr post a few back. I had belt issues as well (1k miles in), found a idler pulley puller with a burst seal that would throw off the alignment of the serpentine belt. I personally like the Dayco belt better than the Continental, construction is a bit different.

[dpfarr]

As far as installation goes, going through the manual is really easy. Especially if you’ve bought the kit brand new and everything is there.

Either way, do your due diligence and make sure you get an updated unit with clearance for the alternator.

Consider installing catch cans during the whole installation. I didn’t and wish it wasn’t a huge pain in the ass to go back and at least do the pcv (driver’s side) behind the ac. It seems logical I have to remove the blow to do it but if anyone says it could be done I’m willing to try.

[B T]

If you have a friend help, double check everything they do! lol

[GPhilly]

@Auto_egr @dpfarr @Hurricane Nate @B T

Thank you all for the advice. Yeah I will be buying the kit brand new from Edelbrock (or CSG) and have 1-2 friends helping me out (that are pretty experienced; one has turbo'd their Miata and another has a racecar).

So basically I will now need to get O-ring lube and worm clamps. Why is a catch can needed?

[Auto_egr]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

@Auto_egr @dpfarr @Hurricane Nate @B T

Thank you all for the advice. Yeah I will be buying the kit brand new from Edelbrock (or CSG) and have 1-2 friends helping me out (that are pretty experienced; one has turbo'd their Miata and another has a racecar).

So basically I will now need to get O-ring lube and worm clamps. Why is a catch can needed?

Helps prevent the oil from gumming up the intercooler and/or entering the combustion chamber, potentially reducing octane and inducing knock. The passenger side PCV is the one that matters most for a catch can. Drivers side isn't as much of a concern since you won't collect any oil.


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[Muskoka800]

You may want to replace or clean the rear PCV valve while the manifold is off.
Mine was gummed at 78,000 kl. A new PCV at the dealer was cheap. I later cleaned the original one (with WD40) and it seems okay now for the spare parts box. And yes, this is the time to install the catch can hose from that PCV out toward the battery.

[GPhilly]

Originally Posted by Auto_egr

Helps prevent the oil from gumming up the intercooler and/or entering the combustion chamber, potentially reducing octane and inducing knock. The passenger side PCV is the one that matters most for a catch can. Drivers side isn't as much of a concern since you won't collect any oil.

Yeah, I'm definitely trying to avoid future knock as the car has low miles (15k) and the supercharger is planning to stay on for longevity. An extra $500 is worth spending for piece of mind it wont break later.

[B T]

Originally Posted by GPhilly

Why is a catch can needed?

I would recommend getting just the Radium driver side catch can, but route it like the passenger side would normally be done. This will allow you to empty it much easier. The second catch can hasn't really ever caught anything for me, so I sold it off.

[Auto_egr]

Originally Posted by B T

I would recommend getting just the Radium driver side catch can, but route it like the passenger side would normally be done. This will allow you to empty it much easier. The second catch can hasn't really ever caught anything for me, so I sold it off.

Are you referring to PCV or CCV side catching oil? I had a PCV mishimoto can when I was NA and accumulated about a quarter cup of condensation/oil every season but that is passenger side, correct? Speaking from a LHD vehicle.


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[B T]

Originally Posted by Auto_egr

Are you referring to PCV or CCV side catching oil? I had a PCV mishimoto can when I was NA and accumulated about a quarter cup of condensation/oil every season but that is passenger side, correct? Speaking from a LHD vehicle.
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I got the CCV (drivers side) catch can and hooked it up like the PCV (Passenger side) plumbing

[Auto_egr]

Originally Posted by B T

I got the CCV (drivers side) catch can and hooked it up like the PCV (Passenger side) plumbing

Hm... Maybe I need both catch cans for my usage then since I was seeing accumulation on the PCV side. The car sees a lot of temperature swings and track/autox usage. Thanks for the info!


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