Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[Swolzee]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Reliable in what context? One-lap wonder? 25 hours of run time? 200 Hours?

I'd probably tell them to take their money to the dealer and just buy a faster base car, unless they're absolutely dead set on having a super fast 86.

So install the Edelbrock be content with 285 to the wheels and save the additional 15 grand as a down payment on a Nissan Z. Gotcha.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Swolzee

So install the Edelbrock be content with 285 to the wheels and save the additional 15 grand as a down payment on a Nissan Z. Gotcha.

I'd also tell you to take the down on the Z and get a different car.

[Swolzee]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

I'd also tell you to take the down on the Z and get a different car.

Which would be unfortunate because I have expensive taste (for my budget) and I'm also selective. An Exige or a GT4 would be my only other options. And the exige would need extensive work or a swap itself so I'm right back in the same boat there. The GT4 is likely a pipe dream for at least another year.

Which really the Exige would be over 100k too after doing the necessary work so both are likely not options right now.

Why don't you recommend the Z?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Swolzee

Which would be unfortunate because I have expensive taste (for my budget) and I'm also selective. An Exige or a GT4 would be my only other options. And the exige would need extensive work or a swap itself so I'm right back in the same boat there. The GT4 is likely a pipe dream for at least another year.

Which really the Exige would be over 100k too after doing the necessary work so both are likely not options right now.

Why don't you recommend the Z?

Because if you want 400-500whp, there are other platforms that get you there with way less effort, for similar total spend.

The Z's powertrain is recycled out of known parts, which is why I can conclusively say this.

Realistically, a 2020 Supra with $2k spent in addition will get you a rock solid 500whp for the street/strip, and run 10's all day, while still being trackable. That identical spend in a new Z, assuming it's 40k, will ultimately be higher to match the Supra's capability.


Stock for stock, out of the box, the Z's punching at a higher price point, but I doubt most people are buying Supras to leave it alone, which is where the Supra's value lies; the Supra punches under its price point stock.

[Swolzee]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Because if you want 400-500whp, there are other platforms that get you there with way less effort, for similar total spend.

The Z's powertrain is recycled out of known parts, which is why I can conclusively say this.

Realistically, a 2020 Supra with $2k spent in addition will get you a rock solid 500whp for the street/strip, and run 10's all day, while still being trackable. That identical spend in a new Z, assuming it's 40k, will ultimately be higher to match the Supra's capability.


Stock for stock, out of the box, the Z's punching at a higher price point, but I doubt most people are buying Supras to leave it alone, which is where the Supra's value lies; the Supra punches under its price point stock.

I'm not crazy about the Supra's aesthetics, which isn't bad it's just not for me, but the lack of a manual trans is a deathblow. I feel guilty clogging up this thread with non-SC talk so I'll PM you my question.

[dpfarr]

Dang ol Delicious man, I tell you what. My car had some idle issues and an MAF code. I went through all the connections from the DD box. One of them had a wire that was not inserted into the harness. I feel like I got it inserted well and secured. (Little orange grommet goes over wire into harness) plugged it back in and connected my battery. No more codes, idle smooth and doesn’t stall, traction control is restored.

Getting dyno tuned for E85 on the 30th!

[FrickingReallySlow]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

My car had some idle issues and an MAF code. I went through all the connections from the DD box. One of them had a wire that was not inserted into the harness. I feel like I got it inserted well and secured. (Little orange grommet goes over wire into harness) plugged it back in and connected my battery. No more codes, idle smooth and doesn’t stall, traction control is restored.

Nice, so DDbox wasn't fried by voltage spike? Btw, did you get around the alternator fitment by going back to first gen alternator? I know they are clocked differently which interferes with the runner slightly. what did they say was the difference between gen1 and gen2 alternators

[dpfarr]

Originally Posted by FrickingReallySlow

Nice, so DDbox wasn't fried by voltage spike? Btw, did you get around the alternator fitment by going back to first gen alternator? I know they are clocked differently which interferes with the runner slightly. what did they say was the difference between gen1 and gen2 alternators

Thanks!

It was fried. I got an upgrade from Delicious for new one and new ff sensor. I hacked the hard plastic off the connector and did some heat shrink over it. It sucks but I couldn’t pull it off so fingers crossed. The first gen alternators are a different amperage so there’s no possibility of me figuring that shit out.

Feeling anxious when I get to take it to the track. Been having way too much fun getting loose!

[Muskoka800]

I’m nearing the completion of the installation of my previously enjoyed Edelbrock S/C.
My question is, do I re-install the black plastic shroud which covers the space between the crash bar and the upper rad support?
It seems critical to the OEM to control air flow to the a/c condenser and radiator. Would it not be beneficial to re-install it after adding the Edelbrock heat exchanger? Don’t see any instruction in the installation manual.

[B T]

Quick update on the remote MAP kits for the Edelbrock. We are up to 6 orders as follows: @aKaGorganZola @Auto_egr @boldfin @Brewster @dpfarr @Swolzee

If we can get to 8, I'll put in the order for the CNC shop and hope the 2 additional follow up some time soon. The more orders we get, the cheaper I can get it to you. 10 being the bare minimum otherwise it gets pretty costly per unit.

These are aluminum billet CNCed with black anodized finish. All lines, o-rings, and fittings included for the basic install. There's also a second way to install (the way I have on my car) that requires a bit more expensive T-adapter ($11 before tax). Both ways work fine, it's just a matter of where you would rather get your vacuum for the bypass valve. Stock kit gets it from the remote adapter line, the additional t-adapter gets it from the brake booster vacuum line.

If you would like your name added or taken off the list, please PM me.

[dpfarr]

Asked the guy at Snail for a conservative tune for longevity. Don’t know if that’s why my numbers are what they are but…

[Decep]

Cleaned my air filter for the first time the other day. For anyone who's yet to do it, make sure you let the damn thing dry 100%. I let it sit in the sun for a few hours and it felt perfectly dry and flicked it around with no water coming out of it. Installed it and my car would crank, start and then just die. Pulled the MAF and the thing was SOAKED. Cleaned the maf with some maf cleaning spray and wiped all the wet parts down with IPA and let everything dry. Dried the filter indoors with a space heater blowing on it (not too close obviously) overnight. Luckily my MAF didn't have to be replaced and car runs fine. I did reclean and reoil it since the filter should be 100% dry before you oil it.

This is the OG oiled filter, have not switched to the dryflow. For what it's worth, it's been almost 30k miles and the filter wasn't that dirty at all, probably could have let it go longer. My throttle body looked clean as a whistle too which was nice to see. Little to no carbon or oil buildup.

[aKaGorganZola]

Originally Posted by B T

Quick update on the remote MAP kits for the Edelbrock. We are up to 6 orders as follows: @aKaGorganZola @Auto_egr @boldfin @Brewster @dpfarr @Swolzee

If we can get to 8, I'll put in the order for the CNC shop and hope the 2 additional follow up some time soon. The more orders we get, the cheaper I can get it to you. 10 being the bare minimum otherwise it gets pretty costly per unit.

These are aluminum billet CNCed with black anodized finish. All lines, o-rings, and fittings included for the basic install. There's also a second way to install (the way I have on my car) that requires a bit more expensive T-adapter ($11 before tax). Both ways work fine, it's just a matter of where you would rather get your vacuum for the bypass valve. Stock kit gets it from the remote adapter line, the additional t-adapter gets it from the brake booster vacuum line.

If you would like your name added or taken off the list, please PM me.

Is there any benefit of going with the t adapter? Like if it's only 11 bucks but I end up with a cleaner looking install that's well worth it for me at least

[mrntd]

Originally Posted by dpfarr

Asked the guy at Snail for a conservative tune for longevity. Don’t know if that’s why my numbers are what they are but…

Your numbers look like my Edelbrock stock numbers.

Mustang dynos can provide misleading numbers. For comparison to other dynos they should use the SAE correction factor. Also they need to be recalibrated annually and most are not. Put your car on a dynojet to see realistic numbers. No I don’t sell them.