Simplest way to add camber

[Strat_FRS]

Episode 2 of the 2022 BRZ build just dropped. This will give you guys a nice look at the knuckles and how to add a bit of camber for more front end bite.

[Jianlun]

Please keep the build videos coming!

[dsc_pat]

did you try the lower oem bolt in the upper hole ? it is not eccentric, but it is smaller and allow for about an extra degree

[Strat_FRS]

Originally Posted by dsc_pat

did you try the lower oem bolt in the upper hole ? it is not eccentric, but it is smaller and allow for about an extra degree

Upper hole is 16mm - so you would need a 16mm camber bolt there. You can put one in each hole (correct diameter) and increase camber a bit more.

[dsc_pat]

Yes, but this is not what I am saying.

The OE lower bolt used to be smaller body than the OE upper bolt. We used to put the lower OE bolt into the upper hole, and an aftermarket camber bolt in the lower hole. This provided max camber.

Could you confirm both upper and lower OE bolt are exactly the same diameter in the body ? I am pretty sure they are not from the OE diagram. We do not know from the video.

Thanks

[TommyW]

You really need camper plates, unless you're just staying on the street

[jvincent]

Originally Posted by dsc_pat

Yes, but this is not what I am saying.

The OE lower bolt used to be smaller body than the OE upper bolt. We used to put the lower OE bolt into the upper hole, and an aftermarket camber bolt in the lower hole. This provided max camber.

Could you confirm both upper and lower OE bolt are exactly the same diameter in the body ? I am pretty sure they are not from the OE diagram. We do not know from the video.

Thanks

I just looked at the parts diagram on parts.subaru.com and it's showing the same diameter bolt for top and bottom. For some reason the bolt part numbers are different but the description shows them both at 14mm and they use the same nut.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_20...11-210-01.html

[ayau]

Originally Posted by jvincent

I just looked at the parts diagram on parts.subaru.com and it's showing the same diameter bolt for top and bottom. For some reason the bolt part numbers are different but the description shows them both at 14mm and they use the same nut.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_20...11-210-01.html

They're different bolts but use the same nuts. Top bolt has a lobe and the bottom is straight. The lobe fills out the top strut bolt hole. There's no slop. If you put the straight bolt aka "crash bolt" in the upper strut hole, you're left with some gap and you can push the whole rotor assembly towards the engine for additional negative camber.

It's the only way the factory manual recommends adjusting front camber. As a result, this is the only legal method to add camber in autocross street class.

[nikitopo]

Originally Posted by ayau

They're different bolts but use the same nuts. Top bolt has a lobe and the bottom is straight. The lobe fills out the top strut bolt hole. There's no slop. If you put the straight bolt aka "crash bolt" in the upper strut hole, you're left with some gap and you can push the whole rotor assembly towards the engine for additional negative camber.

It's the only way the factory manual recommends adjusting front camber. As a result, this is the only legal method to add camber in autocross street class.

Exactly. The crash bolt method is the only way factory manual recommends for adding camber. I always disliked the front wheel angle and crash bolts fixed it. Aftermarket camber bolts are slipping, so if someone wants to go more extreme the only way is to go with (adjustable) camber plates or (non-adjustable) Pedders offset top hats.

[dsc_pat]

Originally Posted by ayau

They're different bolts but use the same nuts. Top bolt has a lobe and the bottom is straight. The lobe fills out the top strut bolt hole. There's no slop. If you put the straight bolt aka "crash bolt" in the upper strut hole, you're left with some gap and you can push the whole rotor assembly towards the engine for additional negative camber.

It's the only way the factory manual recommends adjusting front camber. As a result, this is the only legal method to add camber in autocross street class.

Thank you man, exactly what I was saying, but MUCH clearer than a french guy on his cell phone at the grocery store

Can OP confirm that his bolts looked like that ? Or did OP not remove the top bolt at all @Strat_FRS

[Strat_FRS]

Originally Posted by dsc_pat

Yes, but this is not what I am saying.

The OE lower bolt used to be smaller body than the OE upper bolt. We used to put the lower OE bolt into the upper hole, and an aftermarket camber bolt in the lower hole. This provided max camber.

Could you confirm both upper and lower OE bolt are exactly the same diameter in the body ? I am pretty sure they are not from the OE diagram. We do not know from the video.

Thanks

The bolts are exactly as pictured. 16mm top, 14mm bottom. I initially tried the 14mm in the top hole, but it was much too loose in the knuckle. You will want to run a 16mm top and 14mm bottom to tilt the knuckle for max camber (push the top to the outside and bottom to the inside).

Originally Posted by TommyW

You really need camper plates, unless you're just staying on the street

Agreed. These are coming next with coilovers and rear camber arms. The OEM suspension is well sorted. For street tires, it is very good - when you add a lot of tire grip it can feel soft but otherwise well sorted.

[dsc_pat]

Thanks for confirming !

We've been running the 14mm in the upper hole for decades on Subarus. You can get up to -2.2 degrees with the 14mm oem into top hole (you have to push the knuckle when tightening) and a camber bolt to the max negative setting in the lower hole. While it isn't enough for theorical max performance on track, it gives great thread temperature readings on the pyro to prevent tire chunking on most tracks. It is also 10x more reliable than aftermarket camber plates.

[Strat_FRS]

Originally Posted by dsc_pat

Thanks for confirming !

We've been running the 14mm in the upper hole for decades on Subarus. You can get up to -2.2 degrees with the 14mm oem into top hole (you have to push the knuckle when tightening) and a camber bolt to the max negative setting in the lower hole. While it isn't enough for theorical max performance on track, it gives great thread temperature readings on the pyro to prevent tire chunking on most tracks. It is also 10x more reliable than aftermarket camber plates.

The effect is the same as slotting the strut. I assume you don't get any slippage on the top hole with the 14mm bolts? 2.2 is very close to what we run on our FRS with the camber plates and camber bolts. We run 2.5 camber in the front. I usually max out the camber plates up top to make sure we don't get slippage.

[dsc_pat]

Never had a slip in at least 5 years of serious track use on 255 sub 200tw tires.