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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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07-12-2020, 12:00 AM | #15 | |
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If it is a bad TOB, it could be that the bearings (in the race) are warn (loose) just enough that they make that noise when they are spinning really fast (5,000 rpms) and when you load the TOB bearing, the bearings tighten up enough in the race that they don't make that sound - how's THAT for a theory - Theory #2. Something in the clutch system (like the clutch fork) gets to vibrating at the high rpms and when you touch the clutch pedal the force from the piston in the slave cylinder stops it from vibrating - I'll ring up ol @Ultramaroon for ya, he knows a lot about stuff like that. He'll get a kick out of my theories - |
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07-12-2020, 07:59 AM | #16 |
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The legend of @Tcoat sometimes makes me borderline paranoid.
Some say you can take a grizzly bear down with his TOB if you run out of 12 gage rounds Sent from a potato |
07-12-2020, 02:40 PM | #17 |
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Did you remove the helper spring from your clutch pedal?
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07-12-2020, 02:55 PM | #18 |
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07-12-2020, 03:09 PM | #19 |
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@Ultramaroon,
Here's a picture of it. After removing the spring, the little tab was free to flap around. Looks like the Subaru tech put a zip tie in there. When I flap that aluminum tab around, it makes almost an identical noise hitting against the zip tie. Not sure if you can tell much from the picture. Sent from a potato |
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07-12-2020, 07:20 PM | #20 |
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There you go. Mine does it occasionally. I thought that it was the clevis joint between the piston rod and bellcrank so, after losing the parts for my helper spring, I've spent a lot of time trying to balance that rod adjustment with how the pedal rests against the upper bump stop.
Did the sound go away after the mechanic zip-tied that perch? I should do the same with mine regardless. I feel kind of stupid for not thinking of that. The take-up feature of the helper spring is the main reason I regret removing mine. It's an integral part of the clutch operating mechanism. It is also not the source of frustration with the stock clutch's vagueness.
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07-12-2020, 07:27 PM | #21 | |
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The reason I'm not concerned about the TOB is that the noise completely goes away when I press the clutch. Regarding the spring, I saw somewhere someone measured the pedal force with and without the spring. Initially it makes it easier to push, but as you push further, the pedal force increases. So for the initial push (cases of accidentally riding the clutch), won't it be better not to have the spring? Sent from a potato |
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07-12-2020, 11:13 PM | #22 |
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It works just like the spring in a toggle switch. It pushes the pedal up a little bit when it's up. Then as the pedal is pressed, it crosses "over center" and then it pushes hard downward. If it was still installed, I'd suggest a demonstration. Pull the top of the clutch fork forward to sink the piston into the slave cylinder. Then before it slowly creeps back out, grab clutch pedal with your hand and push it to the floor
It would push back against your hand for a bit. Then, if you weren't ready, it might surprise how hard it sinks the pedal to the floor. You could pump the pedal a couple times to bring the clutch back, or you could just wait a couple minutes for the piston in the slave cylinder to take up the slack on its own.
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07-13-2020, 01:38 AM | #23 | |
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07-13-2020, 01:44 AM | #24 | |
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07-13-2020, 01:47 AM | #25 |
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07-13-2020, 02:57 AM | #26 |
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07-13-2020, 04:59 AM | #27 |
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Last post was 2 hours ago it says... and it's 5am now.
Insomnia, or partying all night? Sent from a potato |
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07-13-2020, 11:09 AM | #28 |
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For reference....
I'm gonna search my garage if I can find the spring. I think I'll put it back in if I can. Sent from a potato |
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