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Old 05-18-2020, 06:52 PM   #57
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Most heater hose I've seen is rated to 275 F. As Weeder mentioned, I put some thermal sleeving on mine where they run close to the block or exhaust - just as a precaution.

If you use silicone hose the temp rating bumps up to something like 350 F.

In addition, I picked up a molded 5/8" silicone 90 degree "L" to make the transition from the exit of the Forester/WRX coolant pipe to the OEM heater hose cleaner.
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Old 05-20-2020, 03:56 AM   #58
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Most heater hose I've seen is rated to 275 F. As Weeder mentioned, I put some thermal sleeving on mine where they run close to the block or exhaust - just as a precaution.

If you use silicone hose the temp rating bumps up to something like 350 F.

In addition, I picked up a molded 5/8" silicone 90 degree "L" to make the transition from the exit of the Forester/WRX coolant pipe to the OEM heater hose cleaner.
Yes I am planning to get silicone hose. That is very good idea to have L connector, but worry that would introduce more risk for leaking.
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Old 05-20-2020, 10:36 AM   #59
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Why not just use the throttle body method?

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Old 05-21-2020, 03:26 AM   #60
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Yes I am going to try the TB method. I wonder if anyone running into heat problem for the hose when connecting the TB? I am sure the hose would touch the metal part. Do I need to use some kind of heatshield like this one to protect the hose? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172355932574
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Old 05-21-2020, 11:50 AM   #61
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Yes I am going to try the TB method. I wonder if anyone running into heat problem for the hose when connecting the TB? I am sure the hose would touch the metal part. Do I need to use some kind of heatshield like this one to protect the hose? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172355932574
before switching over to the Cusco set up, I had the TB method. I did not put any sort of shielding on the hoses. The parts that touch the TB were perfectly fine, but there was some abrasion on the hoses as they touched the engine block.
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:22 PM   #62
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Why not just use the throttle body method?

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A couple of reasons.

First, I bought the various parts to do the OEM(ish) approach 3 or 4 years ago and never got around to installing them. The current environment offers the time to finally put that together.

Second, aesthetically, I like the cleanliness of that installation.

Third, functionally. I have a hunch it may offer better coolant flow through the heat exchanger than the TB approach - admittedly, I'm just pulling that out of my ass but, oh well.

If I were going to use a different variation, I'd use the feed side of the OEM approach and run the return line over the top of the engine around to the rear of the water pipe that bridges the two cylinder backs and swings around the passenger side to the upper radiator hose.

There's a plate on the rear of that pipe that blocks off what on automatic trans cars is the return line from the trans cooler. I considered just buying the housing that bolts to that port and returning the coolant there. But, as I noted earlier, I already had the parts to do it this way and now have the time.
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:26 PM   #63
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Yes I am going to try the TB method. I wonder if anyone running into heat problem for the hose when connecting the TB? I am sure the hose would touch the metal part. Do I need to use some kind of heatshield like this one to protect the hose? https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/172355932574
I wouldn't worry about heat, but as Weeder noted, abrasion could be a problem over the long term. The material you link to would probably deal with abrasion issues, or you could pick up some sleeve material to protect the hoses. I used some hose protection sleeving on mine where the hoses run close to the engine or accessories.
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Old 05-21-2020, 03:36 PM   #64
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Something like this will help: https://www.spectreperformance.com/3...er-hose-sleeve

I was fortunate that the Cusco kit came with some plastic covering, but I still used the braid on a few sections, too.
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Old 05-21-2020, 07:57 PM   #65
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I used Vibrant hose #20425. Highest temp rating I found (350F). One hose is more than enough - I had a bit left over.
https://vibrantperformance.com/catal...fe4e30d2eeed54
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:00 AM   #66
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Thanks guys, I will go with silicone hoses + shield
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Old 05-24-2020, 09:33 AM   #67
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Bypass the TB. You don’t need the coolant heat soaking the TB.
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Old 05-24-2020, 12:29 PM   #68
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Bypass the TB. You don’t need the coolant heat soaking the TB.

If the coolant flows from the TB to the oil cooler its ok no ?


I don't know which pipe on the TB is the coolant entry / exit thougth
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Old 05-24-2020, 01:10 PM   #69
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If the coolant flows from the TB to the oil cooler its ok no ?


I don't know which pipe on the TB is the coolant entry / exit thougth
It’s only purpose is to warm up the TB when it’s below freezing and you park outside. Otherwise the 190f+ coolant will heat soak the TB, a lot of people just delete it from the loop. It isn’t going to hurt anything keeping it, but no point for most.
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Old 05-25-2020, 09:26 AM   #70
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Agreed. I bypassed the throttle body on my '14 about four years ago and have had no problems in temperatures as low as 0 F.

(Incidentally I did the same mod to my Forester as well with no problems.)

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It’s only purpose is to warm up the TB when it’s below freezing and you park outside. Otherwise the 190f+ coolant will heat soak the TB, a lot of people just delete it from the loop. It isn’t going to hurt anything keeping it, but no point for most.
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