Engine Failure (#4 Rod Bearing + Short Block)

[themadscientist]

Oh, lord, that sounds terrible. So are we reasonably certain the course of events is:

1. Oil is lost, but we haven't determined for certain the reason
2. Oil pressure drops as a result
3. Rod bearing fails

If that's the case then the rods are not the problem, but merely a victim, oil pressure is not the illness, merely a symptom and the true culprit is whatever is causing the oil loss.

I know I have no plans to modify my engine beyond things like free breathing and an oil cooler, but a triple stack of aftermarket meters are part of the plan, water temp, oil temp and oil pressure. Those are the basics and I have never trusted stock gauges.

[BRZnut]

Originally Posted by Tank

I did. I am also unsure what this means. The computer system shows a lapse in the service history from before I bought the car. I bought it used and was assured that any problems would still be covered under warranty for 60 months/60k miles from the date it was first sold.

Did you buy it from the dealer?? Did they tell you at the time of the sale that your warrantee is void since there was a "lapse in service" before you bought the car??? If not, how in the hell can they pull that crap now??? Unbelievable how Subaru/Toyota are NOT standing behind the twins!

[ZZT86]

Originally Posted by Tank

No issues before this happened, other than tail light condensation.

Completely stock, hasn't been modified in any way.

Oil changes were done by the dealer (lifetime oil changes)

The rod knock started right when I came off a salt covered cloverleaf merging onto another highway. Never tracked or autocrossed. It is my daily commute to and from work, which is mostly highway. Occasionally "driven hard", but I'm not the type to bounce it off the rev limiter all day, or rev it when it hasn't fully warmed up yet. I can see no reason why this happened.

Just like me, my 86 gets an easy life most of the time. Could be the VVT system to blame as others have mentioned. This has me a little worried now that my car one day will go kaBOOM ! Pathetic really, imo if the 86 was a 'real' Toyota we wouldn't be here talking about this sh1t :/

I also can't help think that the oil weight itself has something to do with all this. I presume the oil weight used was the correct one as it was done by the dealer ?

Toyota SHOULD cover you, best of luck bud.

[HunterGreene]

Well, at least we know exactly what to listen for soundwise. The second I hear it, if I do, I'm calling a tow truck.

[ajc209]

I cant be bothered reading the whole thread but has anyone suggested that the crank pulley might be the problem?

The crank pulley is heavy on the FA20 because it dampens harmonics created by spinning crankshaft and by fitting a lightwieght pulley you are removing/changing this damping leaving the bearings vulnerable to failure due to excessive high frequency vibrations?

Its cheaper to fit a heavy crank pulley than to make more effort balancing the crank.....

[HunterGreene]

Originally Posted by ajc209

I cant be bothered reading the whole thread but has anyone suggested that the crank pulley might be the problem?

The crank pulley is heavy on the FA20 because it dampens harmonics created by spinning crankshaft and by fitting a lightwieght pulley you are removing/changing this damping leaving the bearings vulnerable to failure due to excessive high frequency vibrations?

Its cheaper to fit a heavy crank pulley than to make more effort balancing the crank.....

I am reasonably sure that the people who are experiencing this have stock setups. But then again, I am lazy like you and didn't read back.

[ajc209]

Originally Posted by eriktherod

Only two mods: The TRD drop-in air filter and the Perrin crank pulley.

I read enough of the begining to see he had a Perrin crank pulley....

Eriktherod, did you have the Perrin crank pulley fitted both times the bearing failed?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by HunterGreene

I am reasonably sure that the people who are experiencing this have stock setups. But then again, I am lazy like you and didn't read back.

Contrary to the common perception that this is a rampant problem that we are all going to experience of the five confirmed incidences I have found I believe 4 were stock.

[ajc209]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Contrary to the common perception that this is a rampant problem that we are all going to experience of the five confirmed incidences I have found I believe 4 were stock.

IF they were 100% stock (A lightwieght crank is not stock) thats what 4 out of how many 1000's?

Hardly a rampant problem.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Contrary to the common perception that this is a rampant problem that we are all going to experience of the five confirmed incidences I have found I believe 4 were stock.

Originally Posted by ajc209

IF they were 100% stock (A lightwieght crank is not stock) thats what 4 out of how many 1000's?

Hardly a rampant problem.

My point exactly!
I am sure that there are many out there that hold the opposite opinion but nobody has put any firm evidence on the table that there are the 100s of incidents being claimed by some.
The internet is a wealth of information but the flip side is that it is very easy too take too little or inaccurate data and run with it!

[Tank]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Contrary to the common perception that this is a rampant problem that we are all going to experience of the five confirmed incidences I have found I believe 4 were stock.

I am currently waiting on 100% confirmation (the second video @marky posted in #141 is mine). No work will start unless authorized by the service representative (who happens to be in sunny Florida right now).

[Fizz]

I'm just curious, when the bearing begins to spin, does the knock sound come on immediately and remain consistently? Is it something that could go away and come back? Are there any warning signs/sounds?

[shiro]

True story on the knock though. If anyone hears this with their FA20 engine it would be very wise to just pull over, especially if you have any engine or drivetrain mods. Toyota (from experience) will use it to get out of any warranty work that causes the engine to cease, if they can. I ended buying my own replacement FA20 engine because my #4 rod broke and punched a nice "H" shape hole through the short block, while the car was idling in a parking lot I pulled over in.


I paid Subaru to break down the engine block since Toyota (Scion) dropped my case because of aftermarket parts. The Subaru tech wrote a sworn statement and took pictures of the breakdown to illustrate the faulty part...but I ended up not pursuing further action since Toyota won't take a paid and trained Subaru technician's word...even if Subaru designed most of the damn car. LOL.


But love my car now... not even remotely stock So bottom line... don't mess with the knock lol

[toeout]

Once you hear the rod knock, there is no reason to baby it, the damage is already done. You gonna get a new short block and that's it, might as well clatter to the dealer's lot.

The only thing I'm curious about, is how often was the oil level monitored. I check mine weekly, at least, and I've never let it be lower than 1mm from max level.

IMO the only obligation for the owner is to keep the engine cooled and lubricated. If that's done, it better hold together, even if driven hard ( assuming engine is brought to working temp )