Jackson Racing Supercharger Owners Thread

[HaXx]

Originally Posted by livingasleep

Warning: big wall of text! Hopefully some people find this helpful as this was some information I was definitely looking for haha.

start a build thread in the members journals section of the forum. copy paste this post. you will want to go back and see how things have progressed over time, and this is a good post that is just going to get buried in page whoknowswhat of this thread over time and ull never find it again. thanks for the writeup!!

[Matt93SE]

Originally Posted by peaches

Make sure you use the stock pulleys, my belt was slipping because I had aftermarket lighter pulleys. The issue was resolved when I put the stock ones back on.

Good thought. all pulleys are OEM or as included from JR. Looking at the wear on the belt, it doesn't appear to have slipped any, just jumped a rib and tore it off. I'll have to dig more on cause.
Just got the car back from the dyno shop last night, so I can actually look at it again.

[wheelhaus]

Originally Posted by Matt93SE

Good thought. all pulleys are OEM or as included from JR. Looking at the wear on the belt, it doesn't appear to have slipped any, just jumped a rib and tore it off. I'll have to dig more on cause.
Just got the car back from the dyno shop last night, so I can actually look at it again.

I don't have this kit (yet) but this screams of a pulley out of alignment; possibly bent mount/bolt or just not installed correctly, including the supercharger itself. Checking alignment could be tricky, even with a laser level with a vertical laser line, you might need to lock it into a tripod so it can be tilted aft to shoot across all the pulleys, (since I don't believe the engine sits at a perfect 90° to the ground). Also look for witness markings on the pulleys, its likely one with a flange that may show more wear than the other side.

Belt sanders use very very small adjustments to the angle of the rollers to keep the belt centered, so even a very small angle could be driving the belt to one side or the other even if it *looks* straight.

[Matt93SE]

Originally Posted by wheelhaus

I don't have this kit (yet) but this screams of a pulley out of alignment; possibly bent mount/bolt or just not installed correctly, including the supercharger itself. Checking alignment could be tricky, even with a laser level with a vertical laser line, you might need to lock it into a tripod so it can be tilted aft to shoot across all the pulleys, (since I don't believe the engine sits at a perfect 90° to the ground). Also look for witness markings on the pulleys, its likely one with a flange that may show more wear than the other side.

Belt sanders use very very small adjustments to the angle of the rollers to keep the belt centered, so even a very small angle could be driving the belt to one side or the other even if it *looks* straight.

Yep, all those thoughts have been going through my head as well. it's one thing to *look* straight, it's another to *be* straight and verify as such.

1yr into owning this car (as of this week); I've spent over $12k just in the engine bay and made a whopping 3 races. I shoulda bought an NA car..... :\

[peaches]

Originally Posted by Matt93SE

Yep, all those thoughts have been going through my head as well. it's one thing to *look* straight, it's another to *be* straight and verify as such.

1yr into owning this car (as of this week); I've spent over $12k just in the engine bay and made a whopping 3 races. I shoulda bought an NA car..... :\

I could have told you that, had I stayed NA I would have used all the money spent on the SC on seat time (and tires)

[jflogerzi]

I went through the same thing and just went back to NA mode. Live and learn

Sent from my GM1915 using Tapatalk

[Matt93SE]

Originally Posted by peaches

I could have told you that, had I stayed NA I would have used all the money spent on the SC on seat time (and tires)

You ever see a car running on track for years without a problem, then buy it and it starts breaking? previous owner raced this car for 2 years with nothing needed but routine maintenance.. sounded like a good plan.
I blew the engine first race weekend. at least I won both national points races before kaboom and it went on the regional race. New engine for labor day, and I've been dealing with teething problems each time I go out and go faster. Part of car development, but I thought this sumbeech was already sorted, not just a basket of $$ parts bolted together.

[ICauseCalamity]

Hey guys so based on some research I've done I think I have an idea of what I want to do. Want to maybe drive around at 320-350WHP for a bit and then eventually cross into 420-450WHP. I have a 2013 FRS and this was what I was looking to do -

Jackson Racing Supercharger Kit C38
Jackson Racing Oil Cooler Kit
700 CC injectors (DeatschWerks)
DW65C Fuel Pump

Will I need a flex fuel kit if I plan on running E85?

After some driving and some saving lol I would potentially want to push the car further.

High boost pulley
Con rods (Skunk 2)
Kelford Valve Spring Set
Pistons (any recommendations).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

[peaches]

Originally Posted by ICauseCalamity

Hey guys so based on some research I've done I think I have an idea of what I want to do. Want to maybe drive around at 320-350WHP for a bit and then eventually cross into 420-450WHP. I have a 2013 FRS and this was what I was looking to do -

Jackson Racing Supercharger Kit C38
Jackson Racing Oil Cooler Kit
700 CC injectors (DeatschWerks)
DW65C Fuel Pump

Will I need a flex fuel kit if I plan on running E85?

After some driving and some saving lol I would potentially want to push the car further.

High boost pulley
Con rods (Skunk 2)
Kelford Valve Spring Set
Pistons (any recommendations).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

- Without E-85 and the HBP you won't get to 320
- If you're set on hitting over 400 at some point, I doubt 700cc injectors will get you there. Install larger injectors now.
- Unless you can guarantee ethanol content, it's a good idea to install the sensor.

I always question why someone wants to cross into the 400 range. Unless it's a timeattack, other kind of racecar, or you just want a dyno queen, on this platform it's pointless. It's going to be expensive and potentially not very reliable.

I'm at 325 and I can't use all of it on the street, I can only open up the car on the track.

[Matt93SE]

I'm running stock pulley on mine (class rules), but it's taking 110 octane fuel and edgy tune just to get to 285whp. The only way you'll get much over 300 with stock engine internals will be higher boost and corn...

And anything long-term at those power levels is a time bomb. yeah you can get a stock engine to 400 with lots of boost and a tune, but it won't last long before the rods come knocking. note that on the street, that could be months or years. on track, that's hours or days. on the street, you do a few hard pulls and slow down. maybe a little canyon running and take a break after a few minutes. relatively minor heat loads and stress on the spinning bits. On track, you're giving it the beans for 30 min at a time. HUGE difference in abuse and lifespan.

Sooo.. careful what you wish for. that engine build may come quicker than you want.

[ICauseCalamity]

Oh sorry! Yes I would be running E85 for sure. There's a decent amount of stations near me. 1000cc injectors might be a better option. I for sure plan on beefing the internals after the initial install.

[ICauseCalamity]

Originally Posted by peaches

- Without E-85 and the HBP you won't get to 320
- If you're set on hitting over 400 at some point, I doubt 700cc injectors will get you there. Install larger injectors now.
- Unless you can guarantee ethanol content, it's a good idea to install the sensor.

I always question why someone wants to cross into the 400 range. Unless it's a timeattack, other kind of racecar, or you just want a dyno queen, on this platform it's pointless. It's going to be expensive and potentially not very reliable.

I'm at 325 and I can't use all of it on the street, I can only open up the car on the track.

I think that would be a great place for me to start. 325 sounds like a lot of fun. So if I were to want to achieve 325 I should look at the JRSC Kit and their Oil cooler as well as larger injectors and an upgraded fuel pump? Have you had any issues with the stock clutch? Any other mods you might recommend? The reliability factor is a big for me as I want this to be a daily (in the 300ish range ofc, if I ever decide to go bigger no doubt it would be a weekend only car).

[bfrank1972]

Originally Posted by ICauseCalamity

I think that would be a great place for me to start. 325 sounds like a lot of fun. So if I were to want to achieve 325 I should look at the JRSC Kit and their Oil cooler as well as larger injectors and an upgraded fuel pump? Have you had any issues with the stock clutch? Any other mods you might recommend? The reliability factor is a big for me as I want this to be a daily (in the 300ish range ofc, if I ever decide to go bigger no doubt it would be a weekend only car).

Reality check - 325 whp, even on a centrifugal unit, is pretty far beyond the "I want a reliable daily driver" zone Remember this car was designed to output 160-170whp and like 130 wtq. You're doubling that. It can be done, but take care with your installation and tuner as well as your driving habits. And your clutch will probably go next - you might want to start with a milder setup (260-270whp) and see how that feels if it's your daily.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ICauseCalamity

Hey guys so based on some research I've done I think I have an idea of what I want to do. Want to maybe drive around at 320-350WHP for a bit and then eventually cross into 420-450WHP. I have a 2013 FRS and this was what I was looking to do -

Jackson Racing Supercharger Kit C38
Jackson Racing Oil Cooler Kit
700 CC injectors (DeatschWerks)
DW65C Fuel Pump

Will I need a flex fuel kit if I plan on running E85?

After some driving and some saving lol I would potentially want to push the car further.

High boost pulley
Con rods (Skunk 2)
Kelford Valve Spring Set
Pistons (any recommendations).

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Swap out the 65C to a 300C, and the DW700CC for ID1050.

You're not leaving yourself enough room for growth with your build unless you plan on replacing those items and doing it twice.

Yes, you should be using a flex fuel kit.

You also will need a clutch; your stock clutch wont hold that output.

PM me to order and I'll get you sorted out proper.