Alignment limits with RCE coilovers and Vorshlag camber plates

[Kulebrero1]

I installed a set of RaceComp Engineering Tarmac 2 coilovers and Vorshlag camber plates.

Took it to get an alignment. They could only get 1.7 degrees. Was hoping for 4-5 for track duty.

What am I missing?

The car is not even that low. There’s about a one inch gap from the tire to the fender (4.5” from the pinch weld to the ground).

[marco_mc22]

All Kw struts use a slotted upper hole, capable of at least 2.5 degrees of negative camber even without camber plates. Show us a pic of camber plates installed…

Assuming you’re on 17 inch wheels, 4.5 inches from pinch weld to the ground is very low…

[Kulebrero1]

Originally Posted by marco_mc22

All Kw struts use a slotted upper hole, capable of at least 2.5 degrees of negative camber even without camber plates. Show us a pic of camber plates installed…

Assuming you’re on 17 inch wheels, 4.5 inches from pinch weld to the ground is very low…

I must’ve gotten something critically wrong.

I am on 17x9 wheels with 245/45/17 RS4.

The coilover on the driver side is all the way down. The car sits 4.5” from the pinch weld, and I can fit my hand between the tire and fender.

The shop couldn’t get even 2 degrees of camber.

The rear seemed fine with RCE Tarmac 2 coilovers, voodoo LCA, and whiteline toe arms. 2.5 camber and 0.30 toe without issues.

[NoHaveMSG]

I swear, someone else just had this issue. Verify as marco said above. You need to loosen the two bolts where the knuckle bolts to the strut and push the top of the hub in, hold it there, then retighten. Could also have your camber plates flipped or backwards.

[Kulebrero1]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I swear, someone else just had this issue. Verify as marco said above. You need to loosen the two bolts where the knuckle bolts to the strut and push the top of the hub in, hold it there, then retighten. Could also have your camber plates flipped or backwards.

I think I figured it out. The plate is oriented correctly as it is clearly marked “LF OUT” but the metal “hub” (not sure the correct name) that attaches to the coilover and slides on the plate is backwards. I know I installed it exactly how it came. Going home to see if I can flip it.

Sucks it cost me an alignment plus 1 hr labor as they tried to troubleshoot it.

Edit: on the pic below, you’re looking at the camber plate on the driver side. As you can see the bolt holding onto the camber plate cannot go any further back. As is it is at -1 degree of camber. If I flip it (the shiny metal plate), it will allow the coilover to slide much further back. A quick look at the other side tells me that’s the issue.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by Kulebrero1

I think I figured it out. The plate is oriented correctly as it is clearly marked “LF OUT” but the metal “hub” (not sure the correct name) that attaches to the coilover and slides on the plate is backwards. I know I installed it exactly how it came. Going home to see if I can flip it.

Do not flip it. Plate is installed correctly, the top of the strut is as far inboard as it will go. If you flip the plate, you'll have to move the top of the strut way outboard in order to fit the small 4 bolts and hence lose a ton of camber.

Not a fan of how this design sacrifices ~0.5 degrees of negative camber in order to maximize caster (which IMO is *way* overrated) by offsetting the top of the strut as far aft as possible.

[strat61caster]

Yeah I don’t think flipping that silver plate is going to buy you anything, strut is as far inboard as it can go. Per above you’re likely missing a degree from the alignment shop not loosening the upper strut bolt which is slotted on the KW

Kinda wild you can’t even get two degrees with just the plates though, like I got nearly -3 with racesengs and oe struts and one camber bolt.

[redlined600]

I have the same setup and can get over 4* if I want it.

Loosen both bolts that attach the strut to the hub and try to tip the top of the hub toward the center of the car.
Make sure there isn't something preventing you from tipping the hub, like your endlinks or the wrong bolts.

I took a quick pic for you, see how the upper bolt is pushed toward the strut body compared to the lower bolt.

[Breezio]

Your camber plate is setup correctly. The problem must be somewhere below it.

[Kulebrero1]

Originally Posted by redlined600

I have the same setup and can get over 4* if I want it.

Loosen both bolts that attach the strut to the hub and try to tip the top of the hub toward the center of the car.
Make sure there isn't something preventing you from tipping the hub, like your endlinks or the wrong bolts.

I took a quick pic for you, see how the upper bolt is pushed toward the strut body compared to the lower bolt.

That was it! I figured it out before your post, but the fact you lifted your car, took the wheel off, took a pic and posted it is greatly appreciated!!

I didn’t pay attention at all when I installed it…got it right by chance on the other side.

[Kulebrero1]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Do not flip it. Plate is installed correctly, the top of the strut is as far inboard as it will go. If you flip the plate, you'll have to move the top of the strut way outboard in order to fit the small 4 bolts and hence lose a ton of camber.

Not a fan of how this design sacrifices ~0.5 degrees of negative camber in order to maximize caster (which IMO is *way* overrated) by offsetting the top of the strut as far aft as possible.

You’re right. It looked off at first because the bottom/shiny plate has three holes on both sides. The right and left plates used different holes so I thought that was the issue at first.

In the end, it was the slotted hole where the hub attaches to the coilover.

[Kulebrero1]

Originally Posted by strat61caster

Yeah I don’t think flipping that silver plate is going to buy you anything, strut is as far inboard as it can go. Per above you’re likely missing a degree from the alignment shop not loosening the upper strut bolt which is slotted on the KW

Kinda wild you can’t even get two degrees with just the plates though, like I got nearly -3 with racesengs and oe struts and one camber bolt.

You were right. It was the top, slotted upper strut bolt. Somehow I got it right on the right side but wrong on the left. Thanks!

[fryfun]

Had the same issue when I installed my RCE SS1 and did the alignment at the shop. Glad we called RCE and they told us about the top strut bolt thing. Wish it was highlighted in the installation manual.

[Racecomp Engineering]

We're going through the final round of edits on our new instruction manual. Hope to have it posted soon.

- Andrew