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Old 09-06-2017, 07:22 PM   #43
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Just because they didn't bend, it doesn't mean the V jackstands did anything. All the weight is still on the weld, genius.
You might as well just use flat jackstands. Same thing.
So what is your point? You said the welds will fold, I'm telling you they won't.

Genius.
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Old 09-06-2017, 11:28 PM   #44
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hm i just avoid the pinch weld altogether and put the jack stand the other way parallel to the weld inside the seam against the body. I think would be sorta dumb to put the pressure on the narrow seam itself.

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So what is your point? You said the welds will fold, I'm telling you they won't.

Genius.
Having really looked at the welds, they are not as solid as you think. Eventually they will give out from putting the jack pressure directly against it.
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Old 09-07-2017, 01:08 AM   #45
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Having really looked at the welds, they are not as solid as you think. Eventually they will give out from putting the jack pressure directly against it.
I never said they are solid, I'm just stating my own observation based on 3+ years of ownership and working on the car twice or more per month.

I mostly jack up the car from the front crossmember or rear diff when working on the car.
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:23 AM   #46
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hm i just avoid the pinch weld altogether and put the jack stand the other way parallel to the weld inside the seam against the body. I think would be sorta dumb to put the pressure on the narrow seam itself.

Having really looked at the welds, they are not as solid as you think. Eventually they will give out from putting the jack pressure directly against it.
Yet it still works fine. Guess what the pinch welds on all my Toyotas are still there. None have ever folded on me.

Maybe cause it's a California thing and don't ever have to worry about rust.
And yes, they are as solid as you think. Unless you live in the rust belt.
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Old 09-07-2017, 08:43 AM   #47
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Yet it still works fine. Guess what the pinch welds on all my Toyotas are still there. None have ever folded on me.

Maybe cause it's a California thing and don't ever have to worry about rust.
And yes, they are as solid as you think. Unless you live in the rust belt.
They are just as solid in the rust belt. Maybe in 20 or 30 years they will reach a point where rust is an issue but if the pinch welds get to a point where they have disintegrated and are no longer structurally sound then that will be the least of the worries.
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Old 09-07-2017, 02:44 PM   #48
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hm i just avoid the pinch weld altogether and put the jack stand the other way parallel to the weld inside the seam against the body.
This is exactly what I do.
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Old 09-07-2017, 03:22 PM   #49
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Hmm well maybe the couple posters in here that said theirs folded over had weaker welds? Idk I don't like to use things in a way the factory didn't intend. But yeah I use the middle front and rear differential to lift 95% of the time
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Old 09-07-2017, 06:29 PM   #50
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Slotted Jack pads for front pinch welds

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Hmm well maybe the couple posters in here that said theirs folded over had weaker welds? Idk I don't like to use things in a way the factory didn't intend. But yeah I use the middle front and rear differential to lift 95% of the time


I wouldn't say mine were weak.... mine folded over because I jacked the car up improperly. Half because I didn't think I was doing it wrong and half because I had no choice.

By no choice I mean, trying to jack it up on an interlock driveway because no Jack assist ramps and I'm lowered. If the jack can't slide as it lifts you put all of that horizontal pressure on the pinch welds and eventually it folds like it did on me.

So, lesson learned. In hindsight it still really is my fault and I guess a little bit of ignorance on my part to think I could jack it up the way I did. I could've just moved my car to the street and did the work there or in my garage (when available).


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Old 09-07-2017, 09:13 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by palanza87 View Post
hm i just avoid the pinch weld altogether and put the jack stand the other way parallel to the weld inside the seam against the body. I think would be sorta dumb to put the pressure on the narrow seam itself.
I'm going to look into this when I apply Fluid Film to the undercarriage.
I am pretty sure this is where the weight is supported by the factory jack.
The inner seam is lower than the outer seam.

The only think I don't like it putting the car directly on the jack stands.
All the weight of the car is concentrated into a very small contact point.
I think I will use a puck or chunk of wood to distribute the weight somewhat.

Only tricky part is to lower the car onto the stands without knocking off the puck or wood.
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