Engine Oil for DD/Track

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by glamcem

fixed that for you

By "results", I mean those that do multiple uoa's and the uoa results show that the oil is a good fit for their driving conditions.

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by rice_classic

Look at Dezoris' chart here: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...t=oil+pressure

As you can see, at oil temperatures that you run, you are NOT getting anywhere near your 10psi/1000rpm with your 30wt oil. Which what I've been trying to say all along.. the FA20 is NOT GOOD at making good oil pressure at high oil temps.

That 10psi per 1000rpm figure is the general rule of thumb at ~220F and @7000 rpm doesn't apply to the higher temps or lower RPMs since there is a lateral relationship between the RPM and the pressures

see below chart and you'll notice 5w-30 already makes more than enough on 220F mark .. you can ignore the lowest and highest values since that sporadic jump is probably due to the incorrect readings..

you will also notice that the pressure changes are actually pretty steady between 240-260F, then again the correct way to read that data is to look at the median values (not the average values) .. you will also notice that between 10w-30 and 10w-40 there is not a big difference in terms of pressures in Dezoris' chart so why risk running the car with the viscosity out of the recommended range (less than 12 @100C as far as I can remember)

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

By "results", I mean those that do multiple uoa's and the uoa results show that the oil is a good fit for their driving conditions.

people also see good results with Mobil 1 oils FYI, I have been following bob's website for a while as well

the thing what you get with UOAs is a snapshot of the OIL and see if there's any abnormal wear and tear (like metal shavings) in it.. it still doesn't tell us anything about the long term effect of the oil to our engines, that's when the tech specs of the specific oil and the datalogging at the track comes in handy.. and in the above graph it clearly shows how it can keep the pressure way above the 0w-20 .. and that 0w-20 is Motul V300 btw, not some el cheapo oil

[rice_classic]

Well if you're comfortable with <50psi @ 7000rpm then knock yourself out. Your UOAs, as you claim, support your decision while simultaneously nullifying your claim of 10psi/1000rpm which your car, with 5w-30, is nowhere near..

But I can dig it. You're doing the analysis and data doesn't lie. However, when it comes time to tear down, I'm looking forward to peak at those bearings.

[JS + BRZ]

I'm planning to pick up some Motul8100 5w-30 for my next oil change. Done with the freebies at Subaru.

[Cop]

Was using 8100 Ecolite but have switched to 300v.

[Naco]

Originally Posted by Cop

Was using 8100 Ecolite but have switched to 300v.

Not for daily use, right? The 300v doesn't have the additive packs that Eco does. My plan is to use 8100 (or greater) for the street and then switch to 300v for the track and some miles after.

The only thing I haven't seen in this thread is about switching up viscosities when using an oil cooler. You have to remember, there will still be a quart of your low grade in there when you do the swap. This then thins the higher viscosity oil and could cause pressure issues when the temps rise.

Also for serious tracking: You can monitor temp all you want, but if you aren't monitoring pressure as well all of your oil decisions are probably wrong and if you are using too thin of an oil you are royally f**king your motor.

[AZP Installs]

The 300v actually has been showing having plenty of additive left even after 2500 track and 2500 street miles in our Project BRZ using Blackstone Labs testing.

I'm not a fan of using the Motul "Eco" anything. They are setup for milage not wear protection. For a daily driver and track car I suggest the 8100 "X" series (X-clean, X-cess) even if you have to move to a 5w30 (0w20 doesn't come in X).

-mike

[OkieSnuffBox]

^Pump gas or E85?

Having a hard time deciding what to buy, I like the Miller but it's damn pricey. I'm thinking I should just go Redline since it's local and still a quality oil.

I run E85 more often than not (only street miles so far), and throw in a tank or two of 91 every 4-5 tanks.

[stevesnj]

I switched to mobil 1 5w-30 from 0w-20 about 2 weeks ago before my first track session. I will just keep an ear out for valve noise during cold weather but It should be fine.

[texasbound972]

Okay, so I have a fully built short block from Crawford with the one off Borg Warner turbo setup from JDL. Quirt Crawford himself said to use 0W-40 Motul. I haven't had any issues with pressure or Temps as long as I have my Perrin oil cooler installed. I haven't tracked it yet but I've been driving it hard on the streets out here in Yuma. Most of the time I don't see oil Temps go over 210. I recently put the oil cooler back on because the Temps when I was cruising on the highway saw 233. I saw some posts that mentioned Temps going to 280. I was freaking out when my oil Temps got to 240. Can someone please post the temp ranges for both coolant and oil? I was told that it's not good to run our cars below 212 oil temp. Need some clarification please. Thanks.

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[steve99]

Originally Posted by texasbound972

Okay, so I have a fully built short block from Crawford with the one off Borg Warner turbo setup from JDL. Quirt Crawford himself said to use 0W-40 Motul. I haven't had any issues with pressure or Temps as long as I have my Perrin oil cooler installed. I haven't tracked it yet but I've been driving it hard on the streets out here in Yuma. Most of the time I don't see oil Temps go over 210. I recently put the oil cooler back on because the Temps when I was cruising on the highway saw 233. I saw some posts that mentioned Temps going to 280. I was freaking out when my oil Temps got to 240. Can someone please post the temp ranges for both coolant and oil? I was told that it's not good to run our cars below 212 oil temp. Need some clarification please. Thanks.

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Run the oil the tuner/builder recomended.

Definitely run an oil cooler with any FI build, its just plain nuts to run FI in a warn/hot climate and track it or drive it hard for extended periods without an oil cooler.

Ideally the oil cooler should have a thermostat so it does not overcool the oil in low ambient temperatures and will let the oil heat up faster from cold start, im pretty sure the perrin cooler would have a thermostat.

modern synthetic oils will handle temps of 280 usually without breaking down, but the problem in these cars is the oil thins out as temps increase (some oils thin more than others) and the oil pressure drops these cars dont make good pressure at high rpm. (you need more pressure as rpms increase)

best to keep your oil below about 240, to keep the pressures up.


In texas where is hot your oil is always going to get hot enough to evaporate off any moisture, its just guys in cold countries that run non thermostaticly controlled oil coolers that may run into issues with oil being to cold, like never gets over 170F or so.

normal driving your going to see coolant temps around the 190-200f and oil arround the same maybe slightly hotter, depends on thermostat in oil cooler and if your running an oil cooler.

track or hard driving the coolant may get over 200F but you would not want it getting over 210F or so.

Oil you probably dont want to get much over 240F but with a good appropriately sized cooler it should never get that high.

[EINSTEIN562]

Originally Posted by EINSTEIN562

I am looking for suggestions on what type of oil to run for DD w/2-3 track days per oil change in SoCal climate. Engine is stock and I am going to be running a Jackson Racing oil cooler. Temps shouldn't be an issue considering most are not seeing anything above 220 degrees with an oil cooler in NA form.

After 5,800 miles and two track days on Motul 8100 Eco-lite 0w20 I did an oil change and sent a sample to Blackstone for analysis. Results came back very positive, it seems the 8100 is working great for my application which is mainly DD with 2-3 track days per oil change interval in SoCal climate. Hope this helps others in similar situations. Blackstone lab results below:

[NLS8520]

Originally Posted by EINSTEIN562

After 5,800 miles and two track days on Motul 8100 Eco-lite 0w20 I did an oil change and sent a sample to Blackstone for analysis. Results came back very positive, it seems the 8100 is working great for my application which is mainly DD with 2-3 track days per oil change interval in SoCal climate. Hope this helps others in similar situations. Blackstone lab results below:

Wow that is a a pretty glowing oil analysis. Very cool thanks for posting that.