Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[riboyster]

Appreciate the offer man. Hows the 335 going? What kinda clutch you end up ordering?

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by riboyster

Appreciate the offer man. Hows the 335 going? What kinda clutch you end up ordering?

335 is good, only driven the car twice now though haha. Commuting too, so not even "fun".

Trying to NOT drive the car though since I'll be tempted to beat on it haha. I've got a clutch from McLeod coming in-I'll have a full review/write up on it since no one else seems to have one or have heard of them.

I probably won't have the clutch in for another 2 weeks maybe? I still didn't even get the video edited together that I shot during install lol.

[riboyster]

Probably not even worth dumping it without the clutch. I'm excited man. Wishing I'd started with the 335, but back then I only knew it as a rod snapper that only built dudes ran.
Wish I'd known that it was a higher displacement/cooler boost monster capable of running on stock internals.

[riboyster]

IAM at 0.94, but car feels and sounds great.

(obviously I expect it to drop on warmer days, although I don't plan on boosting without W/M on said days)

Any thoughts from you peeps?

[choi0706]

I'm selling a full lightly used 335 kit if anyone is interested in buying it. I went turbo.

[riboyster]

Anyone here running on an open source tune that they'd like to share? Getting tired of waiting on my tuner to either unlock it or adjust timing.

[xjohnx]

My bypass valve has separated from the back plate and i'm having a heck of a time getting in touch with @SprintexUSA to purchase a new one. Does anyone know how I can make it so the bypass valve remains open (to prevent building boost) until I can resolve this?

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

My bypass valve has separated from the back plate and i'm having a heck of a time getting in touch with @SprintexUSA to purchase a new one. Does anyone know how I can make it so the bypass valve remains open (to prevent building boost) until I can resolve this?

If you've got a tapped MAP plate, you could use a wastegate. Not too sure otherwise.

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by riboyster

If you've got a tapped MAP plate, you could use a wastegate. Not too sure otherwise.

I do have a tapped MAP plate, but that seems like more trouble than it's worth. i was hoping i could disconnect the arm from the bypass actuator to the valve or something like that. I think it would probably work, but i just got off the phone with sprintex and will have a new one here by tomorrow morning at 10:30 AM. If you need support, I highly recommend calling them vs email.

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

My bypass valve has separated from the back plate and i'm having a heck of a time getting in touch with @SprintexUSA to purchase a new one. Does anyone know how I can make it so the bypass valve remains open (to prevent building boost) until I can resolve this?

If you didn't try calling here's the # (855) 591-2778. There's only one guy that works there so there's a chance he isn't at work because of the flu or something.

On the valve there is a nut or bolt that holds it on if I remember correctly which you can adjust so that the lever stays open or closed, not being able to rotate instead of being able to open and close like it should. I had to replace mine because the bracket that the plastic attaches to the metal was coming off because of the stupid platic rivet-ish design.

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

If you didn't try calling here's the # (855) 591-2778. There's only one guy that works there so there's a chance he isn't at work because of the flu or something.

On the valve there is a nut or bolt that holds it on if I remember correctly which you can adjust so that the lever stays open or closed, not being able to rotate instead of being able to open and close like it should. I had to replace mine because the bracket that the plastic attaches to the metal was coming off because of the stupid platic rivet-ish design.

Exact same thing happened to mine. I gave them a call and have a new one that should be here by tomorrow morning.

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by stockysnail

If you didn't try calling here's the # (855) 591-2778. There's only one guy that works there so there's a chance he isn't at work because of the flu or something.

On the valve there is a nut or bolt that holds it on if I remember correctly which you can adjust so that the lever stays open or closed, not being able to rotate instead of being able to open and close like it should. I had to replace mine because the bracket that the plastic attaches to the metal was coming off because of the stupid platic rivet-ish design.

Do you have instructions for replacing the valve, by chance? or is it pretty self explanatory?

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

Do you have instructions for replacing the valve, by chance? or is it pretty self explanatory?

Very simple. The tricky part is positioning it properly to get the valve to open and close properly. I just threw it on and the level stayed open. Look at the valve lever before removal to see where it should be starting at. Once on there move it by hand to make sure it opens and closes. Start the car and move it or have someone else push the gas pedal so you can watch the level move open to close. If it's not opening and closing like it used to before swapping then you'll need to adjust the position a little.

[riboyster]

How did you guys know something was wrong? Did you just notice it while looking? Or did the car act weird?