Built engine cost?

[Icecreamtruk]

Up here, a subie specialist built an engine for a BRZ using the PTuning turbo with water-meth injection. The cost was 10.5k CAD parts and labor.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by olsonpg

or $197,563 CAD

Actually we are a hair better than the Assuies at $9981.86

[EAGLE5]

I'd go to Element Tuning for a time attack and standalone, for serious track work at high HP. MAP and Full Blown can do great for a drag car or street car with a EcuTek tune. A lot of Subie shops are great at the EJ, but the FA20 is different. Maybe some of them have good experience, but I'd ask to see what they've raced and what they've broken. They'd have to have solved everything from oiling to cooling to direct injection tuning. MAP and FullBlown are worth a call. Maybe Prime Motoring.

A fully built Element motor, without tuning, is $7400. Add oiling and cooling, and you're looking at at over another $1000. Then a high-end turbo kit for $6000+, exhaust for $1000 if you buy off the shelf, header for another grand, and finally tuning for cheap if you want an EcuTek, but you'd be an idiot to do that, so you want Motec or Hydra for another $2k at least, and maybe much more. Now you can work on your transmission, which will pop on your first hot lap at 500HP and 9000RPM. God knows how much that will cost. Meanwhile, you're still running on stock suspension, wheels, tires, and brakes. Time to get some aero too. You're now going so fast, you need a full cage and a seat and a HANS device and an extinguisher. Some netting would be a good idea too. Did I mention fueling upgrades? No, I don't think so. The list goes on, biatch.

[Leonardo]

via Imgflip Meme Generator

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by wise345

To all of you with built engines how much did it cost you when it was all said and done?

We've built quite a few and the quotes range from 6000 up to 10,000 for fully built LONG blocks. Short blocks are easy to do, but to properly assemble a long block takes much more work and there is a lot to potentially mess up.

Generally most folks should get at least the following (brands chosen based on what we used, others are likely just fine):

GSC valve springs
Reimax oil pump gear
Manley or Carrillo rods
CP or JE pistons
ARP head studs

Those are the mid range in terms of price, and will easily hold 600 whp.

If you plan on 9,000 RPM the the carillo rods with CARR bolts are the way to go, above 600 whp we may put in the stronger wrist pins, and the standard ARPs may not be enough to hold 35+ psi long term.

Anything above this basic build list will jack up the price significantly, and you will likely be no longer using an OEM gearbox and not driving the car on the street. Hooking up over 500 whp on streetable tires is a challenge below 80 MPH.

Spinning to 9,000 is also not something we would recommend. Though you can put enough valve spring in there, cams that make power that high will make terrible power down low, and using rockers the chance of failure is exponentially higher once you go past 8,000 RPM. Can you do it? Sure, but for how long....

But price wise a lot of this depends on your motor starting off. If it is in good shape then just basic machining to deck the blocks and heads is all you need, along with a quick hone. If there is scoring or the cases are shot, then you can expect to add 500-1200 to the cost. If the heads are high mileage then it costs a bit more to change out all the guides and seals.

[stevo_12v]

What's a good recommendation for aftermarket cams?

[jwvand02]

Originally Posted by moto-mike

We've built quite a few and the quotes range from 6000 up to 10,000 for fully built LONG blocks. Short blocks are easy to do, but to properly assemble a long block takes much more work and there is a lot to potentially mess up.

Generally most folks should get at least the following (brands chosen based on what we used, others are likely just fine):

GSC valve springs
Reimax oil pump gear
Manley or Carrillo rods
CP or JE pistons
ARP head studs

Those are the mid range in terms of price, and will easily hold 600 whp.

If you plan on 9,000 RPM the the carillo rods with CARR bolts are the way to go, above 600 whp we may put in the stronger wrist pins, and the standard ARPs may not be enough to hold 35+ psi long term.

Anything above this basic build list will jack up the price significantly, and you will likely be no longer using an OEM gearbox and not driving the car on the street. Hooking up over 500 whp on streetable tires is a challenge below 80 MPH.

Spinning to 9,000 is also not something we would recommend. Though you can put enough valve spring in there, cams that make power that high will make terrible power down low, and using rockers the chance of failure is exponentially higher once you go past 8,000 RPM. Can you do it? Sure, but for how long....

But price wise a lot of this depends on your motor starting off. If it is in good shape then just basic machining to deck the blocks and heads is all you need, along with a quick hone. If there is scoring or the cases are shot, then you can expect to add 500-1200 to the cost. If the heads are high mileage then it costs a bit more to change out all the guides and seals.

Could you expand on what you mean by "but to properly assemble a long block takes much more work and there is a lot to potentially mess up"?

[celek]

$13,000 almost done

[Xero-Limit]

Originally Posted by stevo_12v

What's a good recommendation for aftermarket cams?

We don't recommend them unless you're going to go for north 8,000. We hope someone will prove us wrong here, but our experience has not been positive with cams or aftermarket intake manifolds. The 17 OEM is the best option IMO.

Originally Posted by jwvand02

Could you expand on what you mean by "but to properly assemble a long block takes much more work and there is a lot to potentially mess up"?

As long as you keep a short block clean, QC all the parts, and take your time--they are actually pretty easy to do. Not the first time, but once you've done a few it is very routine. Clean, inspect, assemble, disassemble and check clearances, file rings, then reassemble. Really straight forward. Doing a flat 4 long block involves many alignment pins, two timing chains, head/lash clearances, resealing what must be about a hundred yards of silicone, then the tally of the multiple o-rings, VVT filters, pesky rear main seals, making sure all machine work is 100%...it's a lot more work. There's a reason most shops don't do whole long blocks--its much more liability.

[i heart ricers]

more than you can afford pal

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by i heart ricers

more than you can afford pal

...Ferrari?

[DrifterD]

Originally Posted by weederr33

...Ferrari?

Smoke Him

[stevo_12v]

Originally Posted by moto-mike

We don't recommend them unless you're going to go for north 8,000. We hope someone will prove us wrong here, but our experience has not been positive with cams or aftermarket intake manifolds. The 17 OEM is the best option IMO.

I'm using an aftermarket manifold and found that with the power doesn't drop as quickly when in the higher rev range. I'm probably after a 8600rpm limit.

I know HKS make cams, but apparently they are configured to work with the 2.1L stroker kit? (I want to stay in the 2.0 liter category(for motorsport classes))

[airjonny]

Is there a difference between the price of an N/A build and a turbo build?