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#29 |
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I should have known.
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#30 |
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This is Thunderhill west 2 inches of drop on 245's. Thunderhill numbers their corner's strangely so turn 2 is the left hander after the left kink off the straight and the double apex right. The front right would rub on turn 2. Never noticed any harsh bottoming on this track and the car felt stable, even over the turn 3 curb which is about 70mph. I am not saying it is ideal, and I plan to raise the car a bit. It was originally setup at a little over 1.5 inches of drop so it settled quite a bit.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VugfHjSskxE[/ame] |
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#31 |
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well assuming you read the initial post, which i hope you did before commenting, you might have seen that height adjustability and durability were the only two requirements for a reccomendation and that this was also a daily (No need for “performance” in a 35 mph). Low cars dont have good ride quality and need supporting mods most of the time which I am BUDGETING for, however thats not a concern nor was it the question asked, I simply asked for reccomendations on coilovers in which case you have none, so no need to talk down on my personal style preference, thanks
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#32 | |
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#33 | |
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#34 |
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GoZ21: as minimum i suggest:
1) getting this whiteline front roll centre/bump steer correction kit to fix geometry 2) getting camberbolts front (eg. SPC 81305 and/or Whiteline KCA416) and LCA for camber adjustment addition 3) diff riser, so that cv joint angle is not that big, to reduce it's wear 4) depending on struts/coilovers height adjustment type, also maybe these. .. or actually none of the above, but limit lowering to suggested by many with clue in suspension reasonable drop within 1", that won't fsck up geometry, will save you money, will leave enough ground clearance to not scrape car on many speedbumps and steeper driveways and will leave enough suspension travel and will not require uncomfortably stiff spring rates. These cars are not deserving to make them worse :/ |
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#36 |
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If you are looking to get recommendations for lowering you car for a flush or stancy look i would highly recommend asking elsewhere. If you are looking for coilovers and setups for the track, however, this forum is a great place to refer to. I personally have more of a stanced car and have pbm coilovers 18k f/r (dont recommend if you want comfort) but i will be switching to some broadways pretty soon, stance lca’s, pbm diff and subframe risers, and pbm toe arms. Have -4 in the rear and -7 in the front. As for your original question, pbm’s are good if you are planning on getting lower control arms because they dont go very low in the rear. Imo i think spending the extra $600 and getting some broadways with custom spring rates would be the way to go. Just shoot them an email with your needs and how much drop you want and how comfortable you want the ride and they will hand build them just for you.
Last edited by Brzxton; 05-21-2018 at 02:24 AM. |
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#37 |
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I was thinking camber bolts for the rear and front to help clear endlinks for front and even out the rear camber left to right for the rear... Though, seeing he is trying to "stance" the car, some "drop" rear lower arms is probably a even better idear.
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#38 |
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solidONE: camberbolts for twins are for the front. No camberbolts for rear, where LCAs (or less commonly used options of UCAs or UCA eccentric bushings, with former non option due tight budget, and later - due PITA to adjust due press-in nature) are only camber adjustment options.
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#39 | |
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#40 |
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Hmm? First time hearing about that. Can you post part number or link to those? I have LCAs, so no need for them, but still seems interesting to find out.
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#41 | |
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Quote:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=33415
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#42 |
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Hmm. Somehow missed that thread and was under impression that LCAs/UCAs/bushings are only options for rear. But from it it seems that there are no listed from manufacturer as "native" rear camber bolts somewhat fitting by size, only modified/reused front ones or from other cars?
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