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Old 06-27-2022, 10:28 PM   #85
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Originally Posted by geraldjust View Post
Looks like the immobilizer antenna ring. So it goes on the plastic that goes around the keyhole. You should see a connector towards the backside of it.
It was actually an ignition switch, car wouldn’t turn on without it plugged. It wraps around the steering wheel and the connection is on top of the ignition.

Rattle problem solved!!!!
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Old 07-22-2022, 02:44 PM   #86
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Anyone know if there is any reason NOT to make a replacement piece out of aluminum so that I don't need to worry about taking it apart again later on down the road? Or do we know for a fact that the Hyundai one is more durable and won't have the same issue? Also, WTF is the purpose of this part anyway? Is there a reason the two halves don't directly connect? Is this for NVH reduction or what?
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Old 07-22-2022, 04:10 PM   #87
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Originally Posted by Stang70Fastback View Post
Anyone know if there is any reason NOT to make a replacement piece out of aluminum so that I don't need to worry about taking it apart again later on down the road? Or do we know for a fact that the Hyundai one is more durable and won't have the same issue? Also, WTF is the purpose of this part anyway? Is there a reason the two halves don't directly connect? Is this for NVH reduction or what?
This is a particular flavor of flexible coupling that must exist between the driving, and driven rotating subassemblies. It accommodates the misalignment between them. Sort of like a CV joint for small angles/offsets.
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Old 07-23-2022, 01:35 AM   #88
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Anyone know if there is any reason NOT to make a replacement piece out of aluminum so that I don't need to worry about taking it apart again later on down the road? Or do we know for a fact that the Hyundai one is more durable and won't have the same issue? Also, WTF is the purpose of this part anyway? Is there a reason the two halves don't directly connect? Is this for NVH reduction or what?
The only thing i can think of is that if vibrations can cause some induced isolation on the force sensor on the input shaft. Maybe, milled out of a harder plastic. I know the Hyundai bushing is made out of rubber though. So it will eventually break apart too. So very hard plastic needed or soft metal?
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Old 07-23-2022, 10:45 PM   #89
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Thanks for the guide, it worked perfectly! That annoying rattle is finally gone.
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Old 08-06-2022, 02:01 PM   #90
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Apologies if this has already been stated, but I wanted to further add some information I hadn't seen mentioned:

OP provided the following link to the Hyundai part on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018WNMSBK

The part number it claims to replace is 563152K000FFF. That IS, as far as I'm aware, the proper part number. If you read some of the comments on that listing, you'll find this very informative comment:

Quote:
Same OEM manufacturer as the original (TSR) rubber part but this new version is made of polyurethane. A technical service bulletin from Kia and and one from Hyundai indicate the letters HNBR molded onto the new version indicates it is made from polyurethane. There was also a previous "improved" version made of a more durable rubber marked with 4P from the same manufacturer, TSR. The original part has only the manufacturers name (TSR) and a number indicating the injection molding die cavity from which multiple parts were made at the same time. The newest polyurethane parts have superior durability and a higher durometer hardness so they are not as soft as the original. I just replaced my original, which was actually in perfect condition, with the polyurethane part. The steering is now noticeably more responsive with a tighter, less spongy feel when turning, changing lanes, or just normal subtle steering corrections while driving straight.
The photo in the Amazon listing shows HNBR, which according to that comment, should be the latest revision of the part, as per the Hyundai TSB. However, the part I received had 4P stamped on it, suggesting it was the initially revised part, but not the most durable second revision made of polyurethane.

So I went to the dealership, and asked for the same part number. The part number is indeed the same, but this one has HNBR stamped on it, and feels MARKEDLY difference. It's actually softer and more flexible than the interim part. This is odd because the info above says that it has a higher durometer hardness than the original, so I'm wondering if the "first revision" (4P) part somehow wildly overcompensated and went too hard, and maybe that caused its own issues, and so they backed off to the HNBR version, which is softer than the 4P, but harder than the original? It's all a bit confusing.

So I looked up the actual TSB: https://testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb...118786/5003566

In the TSB, it states:

Quote:
Note: There are 2 versions of this part number:
1. “HNBR” marking on polyurethane part
2. “4P” marking on revised rubber part
Both parts are improved with increased durability,
and can be used for procedures in this TSB.
Now I'm wondering which to use! The stiffer one because in theory it'll provide better feedback... or the HNBR one because it seems to be the most recent revision, and theoretically might be the "best" to use? Ugh, decisions! (I'm leaning towards the HNBR one.)

I also want to point something else out that nobody seems to have mentioned, which is that this part does NOT fit quite as perfectly as a replacement as it sounds like it does. It does fit, but you have to force the motor back onto the assembly. That's because the center punch-out on the Hyundai part isn't as bit as the raised section in the steering shaft assembly, meaning the fins don't go all the way down and bottom out the way the factory part does. I guess everyone has just been forcing the two halves back together and calling it a day, but it's just not as perfect of a replacement part in terms of fitment as I had expected.
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Last edited by Stang70Fastback; 08-07-2022 at 06:40 PM.
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Old 08-08-2022, 09:42 AM   #91
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Arrow

The official Subaru SB is this: SB22-036, issued on April, 2022.
Repair Kit part no. is 34595CA000 and contains 1 Rubber Spring, 1 Spacer, and 2 tightening bolts for Power Steering Motor, estimated price 21/25$

About other noises to column there is the SB SB22-024-1 that well explain how to solve.
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File Type: pdf SB22-036E.pdf (1.10 MB, 202 views)
File Type: pdf SB22-024-1E.pdf (678.6 KB, 417 views)
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Old 08-08-2022, 12:53 PM   #92
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I actually wound up putting the OEM part back in. I HATED how the Hyundai part didn't fit properly.
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Old 08-24-2022, 09:02 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trap63 View Post
The official Subaru SB is this: SB22-036, issued on April, 2022.
Repair Kit part no. is 34595CA000 and contains 1 Rubber Spring, 1 Spacer, and 2 tightening bolts for Power Steering Motor, estimated price 21/25$

About other noises to column there is the SB SB22-024-1 that well explain how to solve.
Good to know, wonder if this has been put out for Toyota as well?

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Old 01-06-2023, 07:10 AM   #94
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Cool Successful fix buttttt

Hi everyone,

Today I successfully replaced the EPS coupler and the rattle is gone. So what of an ordeal for me but super happy!!!! However, when I test drove I noticed the steering feel had changed in two ways:
1. Slightly but noticeably heavier
2. Steering wheel no longer goes back to centre. Ie a very slight turn to the right will keep that angle and not come back to centre.

What could have possibly gone wrong, what can I check?

Many many thanks!!
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Old 01-09-2023, 04:17 PM   #95
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That's.... weird.

When I did mine, the car was immediately back to "normal" behavior. I did get an EPS warning light, but I put that down to the car stalling and being re-started during a turn (my car stalls very easily for the first few miles after an ECU reset), it turned off after 5-10 seconds and never came back .

Steering feel and centering haven't changed a bit. I think you might either have placebo effect, or have done something wrong.

Good luck in finding the cause if that issue!
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Old 01-18-2023, 12:09 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trap63 View Post
The official Subaru SB is this: SB22-036, issued on April, 2022.
Repair Kit part no. is 34595CA000 and contains 1 Rubber Spring, 1 Spacer, and 2 tightening bolts for Power Steering Motor, estimated price 21/25$

About other noises to column there is the SB SB22-024-1 that well explain how to solve.
Interesting since Subaru of America has issued no such TSB...

Since this affects so many cars, and is a potential safety issue; binding steering, locked steering, etc. everyone that has experienced it should report it to the NHTSA:
https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#index

PS: The repair kit listed in the European Serice Bulletin shows in the U.S. parts system, it is orderable, but none are currently in stock in the U.S.
P/N: 34595CA000 MSRP: $29.42
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Old 01-21-2023, 03:38 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Opie View Post
Interesting since Subaru of America has issued no such TSB...

Since this affects so many cars, and is a potential safety issue; binding steering, locked steering, etc. everyone that has experienced it should report it to the NHTSA:
https://www.nhtsa.gov/report-a-safety-problem#index

PS: The repair kit listed in the European Serice Bulletin shows in the U.S. parts system, it is orderable, but none are currently in stock in the U.S.
P/N: 34595CA000 MSRP: $29.42
That's right, part available in Japan (not in Europe, here only on order submission), the total cost to Italy near Eur 32 plus custom fee and VAT (+25%),
In Europe no recall but only service bullettin.....maybe NHTSA will help us too...
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Old 01-22-2023, 05:05 PM   #98
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Mine was replaced by a steering column expert. I don't think the bushing is anything special and may be used by Hyundai as well. Toyota parts guy told me my car didn't have eps then told me the eps wasn't serviceable. It's bad enough having a slow sports car but even worse having to deal with slow parts guys.
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