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Old 05-25-2022, 08:52 PM   #29
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Got the yellow B-M4 kit for my Neptune Blue GR86.

First impressions: looks really good in yellow, strong Poorsche vibes.



The thing is MASSIVE, the photo don't do it justice.
Doesn't fit into a spare wheel that came with my Performance Package BRZ.




Two large gaps between the caliper and the knuckle, should allow more airflow into the rotor than PP Brembos:



Changing pads is a massive pain in the neck.
You need to take the caliper off, that bad boy is heavy, and the massive "wing" at the top of the caliper makes it harder to just hang it off a metal hook or something like that.
But before you take the caliper off, you need to break the slide pins loose:



You have to use a punch and a hammer to mover the slide pins out, can't just use pliers like I could with PP Brembos.
The spring clip is very stiff, and my fingers got really tired as I was trying to pull them the first time. Didn't get much easier the second time.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but my initial impression is that it's a bad choice for someone who would want to swap the pads frequently.

Also, the calipers got really dirty after I changed the pads.
It was so much easier with PP Brembos!..

The kit comes with stainless steel brake lines that that have a rubber bracket to hold it against the strut:



The brake line can slide with little resistance up and down that rubber bracket, so if you're really unlucky the brake line might start rubbing against the wheel.
I guess I'll be checking the brake line position during each wheel change.
That's a strange design, tbh.
Curious if anyone was able to use PP Brembo rubber lines instead?
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Old 05-25-2022, 08:53 PM   #30
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And yes, it only has one bleed screw per caliper
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Old 05-25-2022, 11:16 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timurrrr View Post
Got the yellow B-M4 kit for my Neptune Blue GR86.

First impressions: looks really good in yellow, strong Poorsche vibes.



The thing is MASSIVE, the photo don't do it justice.
Doesn't fit into a spare wheel that came with my Performance Package BRZ.




Two large gaps between the caliper and the knuckle, should allow more airflow into the rotor than PP Brembos:



Changing pads is a massive pain in the neck.
You need to take the caliper off, that bad boy is heavy, and the massive "wing" at the top of the caliper makes it harder to just hang it off a metal hook or something like that.
But before you take the caliper off, you need to break the slide pins loose:



You have to use a punch and a hammer to mover the slide pins out, can't just use pliers like I could with PP Brembos.
The spring clip is very stiff, and my fingers got really tired as I was trying to pull them the first time. Didn't get much easier the second time.

Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but my initial impression is that it's a bad choice for someone who would want to swap the pads frequently.

Also, the calipers got really dirty after I changed the pads.
It was so much easier with PP Brembos!..

The kit comes with stainless steel brake lines that that have a rubber bracket to hold it against the strut:



The brake line can slide with little resistance up and down that rubber bracket, so if you're really unlucky the brake line might start rubbing against the wheel.
I guess I'll be checking the brake line position during each wheel change.
That's a strange design, tbh.
Curious if anyone was able to use PP Brembo rubber lines instead?
I am glad I purchased AP Enduro kit in the first place. 😂 Easier to swap pads but it does get more noisy. But it saves a few pounds of unspun weight.
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Old 05-26-2022, 09:41 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timurrrr View Post
The brake line can slide with little resistance up and down that rubber bracket, so if you're really unlucky the brake line might start rubbing against the wheel.
I guess I'll be checking the brake line position during each wheel change.
That's a strange design, tbh.
Curious if anyone was able to use PP Brembo rubber lines instead?
Standard Goodridge line used on all Brembo kits. Zip tie on each side of the rubber bracket; gives you a very easy quick visual reference to see if it moved.

IMO, the Spiegler lines are superior, but they also are like 2.5x the price.

Yes, you can use factory brake lines if you wish.
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Old 05-27-2022, 08:13 PM   #33
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There is some competing information regarding pad swaps with the BM4 in this thread:



Quote:
Originally Posted by Tristor View Post
Yes, you can still install the pad from the back of the caliper by removing two pins and the spring clip, just as you can on any other Brembo caliper. A standard Brembo caliper pin tool/punch works fine on the BM4.

Quote:
Originally Posted by timurrrr View Post
Changing pads is a massive pain in the neck.
You need to take the caliper off, that bad boy is heavy, and the massive "wing" at the top of the caliper makes it harder to just hang it off a metal hook or something like that.

So does the whole caliper need to come off to swap pads or not? Maybe @CSG_Mike can clarify? If pad swaps are no more difficult using the BM4 than the standard caliper, the extra $100 for the BM4 is really compelling but as someone who swaps pads at every track day, having to fiddle so much would get old fast.
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Old 05-27-2022, 10:13 PM   #34
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Quote:
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Yes, you can still install the pad from the back of the caliper by removing two pins and the spring clip, just as you can on any other Brembo caliper.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lynxis View Post
There is some competing information regarding pad swaps with the BM4 in this thread:
Thanks for pointing this out to me, I'll see if I can wiggle the pads out of the caliper without removing it next time I need to change the pads!

The solid "bridge" on the outside of the caliper surely made it look like I have to remove the caliper;
and that was confirmed to me by one of the suppliers.
But also when I tried to wiggle the spring clip out of the caliper the diagonal shape of that bridge came in very handy,
so there might be a similar clever way to get the pads out.
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Old 06-01-2022, 04:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by timurrrr View Post
Got the yellow B-M4 kit for my Neptune Blue GR86
I think I saw your car at Sonoma this past weekend. Absolutely gorgeous with these brakes. Pictures don't seem to do justice on how big the calipers actually are.
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Old 06-01-2022, 07:36 PM   #36
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I think I saw your car at Sonoma this past weekend. Absolutely gorgeous with these brakes.
It was me indeed! Thanks
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Old 06-01-2022, 08:58 PM   #37
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I think I saw your car at Sonoma this past weekend. Absolutely gorgeous with these brakes. Pictures don't seem to do justice on how big the calipers actually are.
Crazy when you think the non BM4 CSG Brembo kit is even larger, but folks online say it's the same as a PP Brembo.

@timurrrr how'd the setup feel compared to your old PP?
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Old 06-02-2022, 01:56 AM   #38
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@timurrrr how'd the setup feel compared to your old PP?
Not a huge difference, but I think they needed a bit more pedal effort (which I like), and felt a little crispier than PP's even though I used a MBCB with PPs.

BTW here's how the front rotors looked like after the first track day.
CSG C1 in the front.


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Old 06-02-2022, 12:18 PM   #39
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The pad deposition looks inconsistent to me. Any idea why?
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Old 06-02-2022, 02:58 PM   #40
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The splotchiness is from ABS.
@timurrrr do you have wheel speed and brake pressure traces?

Also it looks like you didn't get the Zinc layer off the rotor faces before going ham, so there's some gnarly interactions going on.
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Old 06-02-2022, 05:41 PM   #41
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The splotchiness is from ABS.
@timurrrr do you have wheel speed and brake pressure traces?
Pressure traces yes, wheel speeds not yet.

I only had the car assembled a couple of days before the track day, and had very little time to set up data logging.
I ended up missing my first session because my old Braille battery died while I was sanity checking my data setup with the engine off

I can tell from the feel and the sound that I heard that I was indeed engaging ABS more often than I should have. "I have a lead foot".

Quote:
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Also it looks like you didn't get the Zinc layer off the rotor faces before going ham, so there's some gnarly interactions going on.
That's hard to believe, as I gently street drove for a few days on the pads that came with the kit before putting C1's in and going for the high intensity part of the bed-in process.
(I didn't just slap the kit on and went to the track)

Unfortunately I didn't take all the photos I could, but here's a segment of one of the rotors ~40 minutes driving time before I put the C1 pads in:



The high spot was removed by lightly touching it with a screwdriver.
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Old 06-02-2022, 05:53 PM   #42
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The base pads, along with light street driving, won't be terribly abrasive. Your photo says it all! Mixing any transfer from the street pad with the C1 will also have mixed results. Contaminated transfer will yield lower friction and... weird interactions

If you know you are touching ABS, but you're also 'giving it more pedal effort', wouldn't you say that's a bit self-defeating?

Get the C1 really, REALLY hot, without ABS use, to burnish them.
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