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Old 08-25-2014, 03:26 AM   #1905
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Originally Posted by Calum View Post
Given that most mechanics make a pittance compared to what they could make with a similar level of knowledge, we're either left with mechanics that are useless or shady. Once in a while I find one that is good and actually likes what they do, and I go to that guy until he leaves the scene or dies. I just found my fourth guy. One of the old ones is now installing elevators, another went west for work, and the third made for an embarrassing situation when I asked about why he wasn't working that day.
Good honest mechanics and shops are hard to come by. You should give him a hug. American Tires has the best service and competent staff I've experienced (including dealerships). So satisfied every time I get tire service from them I want to kiss them. I imagine that what those high dollar escort services must be like. lol Too bad they only do tires. Sorry off topic.


Suspension.
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Old 08-25-2014, 03:49 AM   #1906
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What setup for camber, alignment etc. would you recommend for stock suspension (only camber bolts) for non-track street only use?
I'm going for 225/40 18 Continental Sportcontact 5 and just want less understeer without wearing the tires fast.
Thanks :-)
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Old 08-25-2014, 05:15 AM   #1907
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Originally Posted by troek View Post
Of course, that would require you to losen it more than a couple turns. Breakinf it loose usually means about half a turn or so.

Oh, I agree, but other than over torqueing it with a rattle gun, it's a possibility.


Much more likely is that someone has crossed or stretched the threads on the studs by over torqueing them during installation.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:34 AM   #1908
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yeah, especially at a tire shop where they are in a hurry and shooting every lug nut start to finish with big rattle guns.
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Old 08-25-2014, 11:33 AM   #1909
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@Racecomp Engineering Currently have Nitto Invos for road use on 17x8 Desmond Regamasters, Track use is 595-RSRs (To be replaced by Nitto NT05s when they wear out). Primarily road use and canyon carving, with regular (at least once per month) motorkhana, drift and HPDE/Trackdays


Have the STI Pink springs, and SPC Camber bolts running -1.75 at the front, no toe front or rear.
Once a month HPDE/trackdays/drift is actually a good amount. That would make me lean toward camber plates.

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Old 08-25-2014, 11:48 AM   #1910
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My suspension questions since I'm thinking about camber plates:

How durable are they? And do they require extra maintenance?

I race SCCA RallyCross at the National level, and occasionally Auto-X too. I'm looking at the Raceseng Cas/Cam front upper mounts and will be staying on the stock springs/shocks and struts because I need the stock ground clearance. Am I going to break the mounts? Will dust/dirt ruin the bearings in short order? Are the adjustments/hardware solid enough to take hard use on unpaved surfaces?
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Old 08-25-2014, 11:55 AM   #1911
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I've currently been running on Ohlins R&T and while they have been great, on both the road and the track, I'm considering my options for the future for a lower cost (points wise) suspension for competing in NASA Time Trials and perhaps Performance Turing in the future.



Right now, the Ohlins slot in at 8 points total (5 for diameter > 40mm, +2 springs, +1 inverted front). I was wondering what the best options are for what would be a 5 point (+3 coilovers, +2 springs) suspension that would primarily be for track duty. Those 3 points will be enough for me to go full exhaust and stay on that purple crack (225 Hoosier R6) that I've become addicted to. I'd also be interested if you have any experience how these +5 coilovers would compare performance wise to the Ohlins.
I don't like the way NASA does points for inverted shocks. The shaft is NOT > 40mm...it's I think 16mm for Ohlins. The shaft is internal and upside down (hence the inverted thing) so you can't see it. But you'll still get the points for the > 40mm "shaft" AND the inverted shock point which is silly. Oh well, those are the rules and they ain't changing them.

Anyway, RCE Tarmac II Clubsports would work well at 5 points. 500/500 rates are no problem at all with them.

- Andy
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Old 08-25-2014, 11:59 AM   #1912
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Originally Posted by mdecoste View Post
Suspension noob here interested in the eibach sway bars for a daily-driven car that is also en route for about 8 autocrosses and 6 track days a year. Im a little concerned about the large size and stiffness of the eibach bars (25mm front, 19mm rear). The suspension as of now is stock and will probably be getting front camber bolts and an alignment soon. I figure less body roll will help weight transitions and increase grip a little since the car is camber limited but would just like to hear from someone who has them or knows more than I do. I would love to go eibach because my family is close with Mr. Eibach.
By the way, fantastic thread. Thank you so much guys!
Eibach bars are tubular (hollow) so the thickness is deceiving. They'll do well. I might start somewhere else first though.

- Andy
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:00 PM   #1913
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Originally Posted by Weasel Soup View Post
My suspension questions since I'm thinking about camber plates:

How durable are they? And do they require extra maintenance?

I race SCCA RallyCross at the National level, and occasionally Auto-X too. I'm looking at the Raceseng Cas/Cam front upper mounts and will be staying on the stock springs/shocks and struts because I need the stock ground clearance. Am I going to break the mounts? Will dust/dirt ruin the bearings in short order? Are the adjustments/hardware solid enough to take hard use on unpaved surfaces?
Rallycross for sure puts a lot of stress on top mounts. How much camber do you need?

- Andy
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:08 PM   #1914
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Originally Posted by ultra View Post
Looking for some better riding coil overs that'll also be faster on track.

Street use + HPDE + competitive HPDE (in that order)
Sticky street tires + possible r-compound tires
-3 camber front, -2.5 rear
-30mm front drop, -25mm rear drop (out of the box coil over settings)
Naturally aspirated, mildly tuned

Car handles well enough balance-wise. I'm looking for less crashiness on the road and more stability and grip on the track -I basically want the car to soak up bumps better when pushed hard in the corners without the chassis balance being upset so I can push harder and go faster more consistently.

Yes, I have roll centre and bump steer kits.

Relative pros & cons of:
RSR Sports-i 'Moto Spec' (6kg front, 7kg rear) - I already own these
Versus
Ohlins Road & Track (6kg front, 6kg rear)
RCE Tarmac 2s (7kg front, 7kg rear)

All of the above seem pretty similar in terms of spring rates so I'm wondering what the tangible benefits of each option would be.

Any point in upgrading? Why/why not?
The bold is exactly why to upgrade. More advanced dampers handle bumps better while still giving you that buttoned down low-piston speed damping that makes the car feel good. Hitting a mid-corner bump with the chassis already loaded and NOT feeling like you just got launched a little off the line is what they do. Stability, confidence, and ultimately...grip. It's less of a compromise between lots of damping to improve transitions/reactions and too much damping for the bumps. They do both well.

The flexibility of the 2 way Tarmac 2s helps quite a bit for tuning for bumps (not having compression and rebound tied together or only adjusting one). That said Ohlins are fantastic. We tracked both extensively back to back and our home circuit is not very smooth. Very happy with both. The Ohlins don't go very low and are a little bit of a pain when switching spring rates FYI.

- Andy
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:09 PM   #1915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grim-Reaper View Post
What setup for camber, alignment etc. would you recommend for stock suspension (only camber bolts) for non-track street only use?
I'm going for 225/40 18 Continental Sportcontact 5 and just want less understeer without wearing the tires fast.
Thanks :-)
Zero toe front and around -1.75 degrees camber front (if you can get it). Rear toe at 0 or a tiny tiny bit of toe in.

- Andy
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Old 08-25-2014, 12:17 PM   #1916
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Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
Rallycross for sure puts a lot of stress on top mounts. How much camber do you need?

- Andy
I want to be able to get between 2 and 3 degrees of camber at stock ride height. That said, do the RaceSeng parts alter ride height/ground clearance any? I really don't want it to sit any lower (I've made use of the factory skid plate a few times), and don't want to raise the nose too much and mess up the handling balance.
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:23 PM   #1917
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Quote:
Originally Posted by finch1750 View Post
Why swaybars first and not springs and/or struts or coilovers? Sways are usually for fine tuning a set up.
Well I would like coilovers but was a little hesitant because of the price, some early issues people were having with the eibach kits, and the fine tuning it would take to find the right settings/alignment. Would you recommend any particular eibach coilover kit?
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Old 08-25-2014, 01:34 PM   #1918
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering View Post
Eibach bars are tubular (hollow) so the thickness is deceiving. They'll do well. I might start somewhere else first though.

- Andy
Ok thanks, start somewhere else as in coilovers and use sways to fine tune? Which of the 3 eibach coilover kits would you recommend? I was a little weary because a few people on the forums were having some early issues with them, but I'm sure eibach has resolved those issues since then.
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