07-11-2020, 01:57 AM | #393 | |
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Increasing preload can have issues. A too short spring might result in coil bind (spring now has less compression travel available than the shock). Too much preload can also overwhelm rebound damping, the damper is not designed to handle the additional force pushing the wheel down. This is why CSG and most manufacturers have a recommended setting. The addition of a helper spring mostly negates the second issue. It allows coilovers such as entry level KWs, Bilsteins, etc. to add preload without overwhelming the damper. An issue with that design means corner balancing a car will change bump/drop travel ratios by different amounts at each corner. The FLA design allows for bump/droop ratio and ride height to be adjusted independently. Back to your question - yes, ride height adjusted via the damper length and NOT preload can still effect ride harshness. In the rear, lowering the length and ride height moves us to a section of travel with less anti-squat and a lower roll center. Less anti-squat means we're using more travel on bumps and acceleration, and a lower roll center means we're using up more bump travel in turns. Same deal in the front regarding roll center. Using more travel means we'll be more bumpstop active. |
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07-11-2020, 02:14 AM | #394 |
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Engineering at Wisefab confirms that using ONLY the drop of the Wisefab rear kit and raising the originally-lower-than-stock height of your CSG FLA via longer sleeve would put the roll center correction as intended.
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07-11-2020, 06:01 PM | #395 | ||
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So does that mean I need dampers designed to work in a completely different range? Remember I lowered the height with drop spindles and INCREASED the length of the damper to maximum allowable height. Does it still have the same effect? I guess I don't understand why the damper length matters. It's just a sleeve at the bottom that doesn't affect stroke at all right? So is it strictly the new geometry that's the culprit? Also, my antisquat should be back to normal even at this ride height with the wisefab kit, or darn close. Should definitely not be worse than a car lowered by just coilovers, which I was previously, and it was very comfortable. Quote:
Last edited by Var; 07-11-2020 at 06:15 PM. |
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07-11-2020, 06:03 PM | #396 |
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Raising it by how much before it's out of spec?
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07-11-2020, 06:04 PM | #397 | |
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Suggestion: 1) Measure your A and B. I put a long Allen wrench on top of the damper body to help precisely measure A with a caliper. 2) Compare your (A-B) with the (A-B) recommended in the instruction manual. If your (A-B) is greater than recommended, add preload (by increasing B). 3) Optionally, add up to ~10 mm of extra preload, if you're comfortable sacrificing the droop travel. 4) Extend the damper body length (by increasing A) as much as you're comfortable. How much lower than desired ride height is your final setup? Ignore angles of the arms. If it's still too low, you need extended sleeves. |
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07-11-2020, 06:21 PM | #398 | |
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Also, still don't understand how I can be hitting bump stops. The ride is harsher in general. Not just over large articulation. Do you mean that I'm engaging HBS all the time? My damper length is all the way out/long. How would that happen? |
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07-11-2020, 07:08 PM | #399 | ||
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Remember, not all reactionary forces to a bump are from the spring/strut assembly. Anti-squat describes the loading of the suspension linkages. With a raised car, more forces are going to be stored in the linkages/bushings, and less in the spring/strut assembly. This can be good, for example under cornering. The compression on the outside rear tire will bring the suspension into a range of travel that doesn't have as much anti-squat. The spring/strut assembly is now left to handle mid corner bumps. Have you noticed that our cars tend to eat bumps better while cornering, as opposed to when going down the highway? Too little anti squat, and you'll not have enough travel left for bumps. Jacking forces are designed in because there are benefits, especially in travel limited applications. Too much is obviously bad and too little can have negative effects as well. It's just another tool you have available. |
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07-12-2020, 04:30 PM | #400 | |
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What is the ride height you get if you follow my recent recommendation? Is it any good, or still way too low? |
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07-12-2020, 04:37 PM | #401 | |
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Around an inch too low still. Minimal change. |
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07-12-2020, 06:38 PM | #402 |
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07-12-2020, 08:07 PM | #403 |
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Still waiting for some details from Mike on this. Wisefab engineering says I can raise the car. I just want to confirm by how much before everyone wastes time and money on this solution. The fact that I need longer sleeves for the rear was pretty apparent already. I just don't want to compromise the geometry.
Even if I go with the extended sleeve solution, I'm going to need some guidance on raising the car and measuring the rear arm angles so I don't go too high. If this is all possible and I can get really close, like..say within 5mm of where the rear end of the car was before the Wisefab kit, and still be in the optimal geometry zone, I will accept this as the solution to my problem. Unless they just tell me flat out I can raise it an inch and not worry. Then we're golden. Although I'm still obviously going to measure it when we're done. |
07-12-2020, 09:21 PM | #404 | |||
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Quote:
Quote:
. Quote:
Last edited by CSG Mike; 07-12-2020 at 09:31 PM. |
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07-12-2020, 11:04 PM | #405 | |
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Also, I already told CSG in an email that I would accept their rear sleeve solution if they guaranteed me no rear geometry defects. That was before I even posted in here. I didn't get any response after I asked them for that assurance. |
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07-12-2020, 11:13 PM | #406 |
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Also, still waiting for word about how much higher I can raise the car from the FLA's maximum height. Otherwise the only way to find out would be to spend more money, which doesn't seem very efficient on either of our ends.
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