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Old 09-10-2020, 05:55 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by 86MLR View Post
I used OEM nuts on my 86 for years, I did get some Project Mu nuts but only because I got them really cheap.

And then I binned it.....coincidence.....??????....LOL
The saddest part is that that was the PERFECT colour plate on that car!!!!!!


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Old 09-10-2020, 06:10 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by daniloneil8 View Post
People are just soap boxing the obvious and not reading anything.

So, it's not user error.

Anyone have a URL to an OEM looking high quality lug nut ?

Everyone already knows this obvious stuff.

I still have OEM lug nuts.
What did you replace your lug nuts with?

Can you post a link to McGard lugs you got?

Replaced every lug with McGard. Want to do the same with BRZ.



If you already knew all the answers why the hell ask the question?


User error is a major cause of seized nuts and broken studs and can not just be discarded from the conversation because you don't like the idea.


There is nothing at all wrong with the stock nuts on these cars. If they were on for 3 years then any make or style could seize on.
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Old 09-10-2020, 09:37 AM   #31
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First time I took the wheels off my 2017, one of the nuts was seized. Ended up twisting off the stud. The wheels had been off at least once before I bought the car because it doesn't have stock tires, so maybe the tire shop cranked them on too tight. I'll be swapping the ARP studs because I go to tire shops when I buy tires and I don't have control over what goes on. BTW - does anyone have the part number for the ARP studs or a link?
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Old 09-10-2020, 12:23 PM   #32
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First time I took the wheels off my 2017, one of the nuts was seized. Ended up twisting off the stud. The wheels had been off at least once before I bought the car because it doesn't have stock tires, so maybe the tire shop cranked them on too tight. I'll be swapping the ARP studs because I go to tire shops when I buy tires and I don't have control over what goes on. BTW - does anyone have the part number for the ARP studs or a link?
https://arp-bolts.com/kits/make.php?...&_EngModelID=*
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Old 09-10-2020, 12:49 PM   #33
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Thanks! I tried searching on their site and was getting weird results. I think its because I started with "Toyota".
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Old 09-10-2020, 01:11 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniloneil8 View Post
People are just soap boxing the obvious and not reading anything.

I and several others have stated they
HAND THREAD the lug nuts,
and then HAND TORQUE WRENCH to 89 lbs,
and DO NOT use an impact wrench,
yet have still had a seized stud.

So, it's not user error.
Doesn't mean shit. Could have flattened a thread or had debris on the stud or lug. It doesn't take much of a bur to get it stuck. Especially with a hardened bolt, thread damage easily seizes them as to where a "soft" bolt is more ductile.

Quote:
My wheels were not removed for 3 years and I had a seized lug.
Not user error.
Sounds like corrosion. Do you not rotate your tires
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Old 09-10-2020, 05:31 PM   #35
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Any merit to this theory in addition to contamination/cross trheading?

- When removing the wheels by hand, some (all) weight is left on the wheel so it won't just spin when trying to "crack loose" the lugs.
- lugs are loosened just a bit too much, and the hub-centering doesn't hold the weight (car on a slight angle, etc)
- Last lug as it's turned has all the weight of that corner on it. It's side-loaded and the threads get galled.
- Corner is jacked up to remove wheel now that the lugs are not at 90 ft-lbs, but the some damage is done.

Now throw in some grit and or the bits of metal that come off the galled threads as the lug nut is worked on/off... ?
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