Full throttle Electric Supercharger Build Thread

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Here you go guys here's the link to a video kinda explaining the build. I didn't make the video public just cuz I made it to show you guys here in the forum.

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Looking good. Cant wait to see some POV driving and dynos.
Have you tested them spooling yet? Just undo at TB make sure the Y pipe and everything is working.

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Looking good. Cant wait to see some POV driving and dynos.

Have you tested them spooling yet? Just undo at TB make sure the Y pipe and everything is working.

Yes I tested when I put it together both are working perfectly. It's hard to tell if it's making more boost I'm kinda tempted to hit boost once just to see what I read on my P3 guage. But I'm scared but then again when they Dyno it they're gonna have to do a base map run right?

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Yes I tested when I put it together both are working perfectly. It's hard to tell if it's making more boost I'm kinda tempted to hit boost once just to see what I read on my P3 guage. But I'm scared but then again when they Dyno it they're gonna have to do a base map run right?

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It probably wouldn’t hurt to do 1 mini pull. really since most of the boost is low. If you did want to risk it. Just do 2nd gear 4k-5.5k rpm 1 time. Film or log your boost gauge to double check. Should be pretty apparent if it’s working.

I would assume he would load a premade base map probably a modification of your current tune but pulling out maybe 3 degrees of timing and adding 15% more fuel. And then slowly add more timing / lean out fuel each run to get closer to the limits. Could ask him to send you the base tune map so you can safely double check it’s all working correctly. Don’t want to find/troubleshoot issues while on the dyno and waste dyno time. Or since you have OFT could modify it yourself or hit up steve99 or wayno to help with base tune.

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

It probably wouldn’t hurt to do 1 mini pull. really since most of the boost is low. If you did want to risk it. Just do 2nd gear 4k-5.5k rpm 1 time. Film or log your boost gauge to double check. Should be pretty apparent if it’s working.



I would assume he would load a premade base map probably a modification of your current tune but pulling out maybe 3 degrees of timing and adding 15% more fuel. And then slowly add more timing / lean out fuel each run to get closer to the limits. Could ask him to send you the base tune map so you can safely double check it’s all working correctly. Don’t want to find/troubleshoot issues while on the dyno and waste dyno time. Or since you have OFT could modify it yourself or hit up steve99 or wayno to help with base tune.

Welp got some good news and some bad news. The good news is the system works both superchargers turn on fine and the bypass valve does the job. The bad news is the I'm not making the amount of boost I was hoping for. I was hoping to atleast hit 6psi but the most I saw was 5.6psi without intercooler and 5.3 with the intercooler. Still it's an improvement from my 4.3 max when I just had one phantom. I will say the initial kick when boost comes on is alot more noticeable. Is this worth the extra money and time at this I would say probably not lol but im so far in im still gonna go through with it.
Now just to bring the cost down I've decided to go with an E tune from OFT. Once I get the the E tune completed. I will do another VDyno and compare it with my last one. To see the improvement between the two.

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Welp got some good news and some bad news. The good news is the system works both superchargers turn on fine and the bypass valve does the job. The bad news is the I'm not making the amount of boost I was hoping for. I was hoping to atleast hit 6psi but the most I saw was 5.6psi without intercooler and 5.3 with the intercooler. Still it's an improvement from my 4.3 max when I just had one phantom. I will say the initial kick when boost comes on is alot more noticeable. Is this worth the extra money and time at this I would say probably not lol but im so far in im still gonna go through with it.
Now just to bring the cost down I've decided to go with an E tune from OFT. Once I get the the E tune completed. I will do another VDyno and compare it with my last one. To see the improvement between the two.

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Have you tested both of them individually, maybe one isn’t working properly or maybe is just older and less efficient, could have the worse one blow into the better one.

Did you add additional batteries to the setup and have each esc have it’s own dedicated battery system?
Could try running both but bypassing one, having one just blow into engine bay, to see if it has to do with battery draw on the system can’t keep up

Could also try running in tandem instead of compound possibly the 2nd ESC isn’t strong enough to compress the pressurized air from the 1st esc properly.

Are you positive the Y pipe is fully closing and not bleeding off some of the boost? Could try to cap it off or just bypass it to test.

.3 drop is a lot better than I thought. Did you get a IAT before and after to see how much heat it’s reducing?

Could try testing the batteries maybe getting old?

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Have you tested both of them individually, maybe one isn’t working properly or maybe is just older and less efficient, could have the worse one blow into the better one.

Did you add additional batteries to the setup and have each esc have it’s own dedicated battery system?
Could try running both but bypassing one, having one just blow into engine bay, to see if it has to do with battery draw on the system can’t keep up

Could also try running in tandem instead of compound possibly the 2nd ESC isn’t strong enough to compress the pressurized air from the 1st esc properly.

Are you positive the Y pipe is fully closing and not bleeding off some of the boost? Could try to cap it off or just bypass it to test.

I tried both chargers independently before putting everything together. The only thing I think it could be would be the second set of batteries since they sat for a while because I had ordered them too soon. But both volt meters read 28.3-5 and discharge pretty evenly and charge back up pretty quickly. Unless it's the second set of batteries is not draining quick enough idk.

As for the bypass valve jelke from torqamp assured me that it was tested before sending them out. I'm not sure under how much pressure they test them but he said it should be able to hold the boost no problem.

I could try the y pipe but the y pipe was not recommend since the amount of mad air flow would double it could cause the engine to surge.

I could also try switching the turbos around maybe one is pushing more than the other. And I might have the one pushing harder first.

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[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

I tried both chargers independently before putting everything together. The only thing I think it could be would be the second set of batteries since they sat for a while because I had ordered them too soon. But both volt meters read 28.3-5 and discharge pretty evenly and charge back up pretty quickly. Unless it's the second set of batteries is not draining quick enough idk.

As for the bypass valve jelke from torqamp assured me that it was tested before sending them out. I'm not sure under how much pressure they test them but he said it should be able to hold the boost no problem.

I could try the y pipe but the y pipe was not recommend since the amount of mad air flow would double it could cause the engine to surge.

I could also try switching the turbos around maybe one is pushing more than the other. And I might have the one pushing harder first.

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Tried switching the turbos around and got the same results. I'm still going that at 5.3psi I can get atleast another 20hp and I'm only saying this cuz since the car is still on the original phantom tune, and just cuz on those quick pulls I did the car pulls so much harder than before. If I could try and explain it, it almost feels like going from the OFT stage 1 to OFT stage 2 E85. The difference is apparent.

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Tried switching the turbos around and got the same results. I'm still going that at 5.3psi I can get atleast another 20hp and I'm only saying this cuz since the car is still on the original phantom tune, and just cuz on those quick pulls I did the car pulls so much harder than before. If I could try and explain it, it almost feels like going from the OFT stage 1 to OFT stage 2 E85. The difference is apparent.

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What boost where/are you making at 7k rpm before and after?

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

What boost where/are you making at 7k rpm before and after?

I haven't hit redline since the car isn't tuned I'm kinda scared to. I was going full throttle 3rd gear from 3500rpm to about 5500rpm and I would hit 5.3psi. and I assume that rather than before where it would taper down to 2psi it'll only taper down to 3psi

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

I haven't hit redline since the car isn't tuned I'm kinda scared to. I was going full throttle 3rd gear from 3500rpm to about 5500rpm and I would hit 5.3psi. and I assume that rather than before where it would taper down to 2psi it'll only taper down to 3psi

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Are you running stock MAP sensor? Or changed to an aftermarket?
Or running an aftermarket boost gauge?

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Are you running stock MAP sensor? Or changed to an aftermarket?

Or running an aftermarket boost gauge?

It's stock I do have the delicious tunning map sensor just wasn't going to install it untill I began the tunning process

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

It's stock I do have the delicious tunning map sensor just wasn't going to install it untill I began the tunning process

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Ok it’s all making more sense now.
Stock map sensor only reads to 5.6psi.
Looking at your intercooler setup I thought it would create a good 1-1.5psi drop. I bet you are making closer to 7psi when bypassing it.

You have OFT so you could datalog this. With intercooler you peaked 5.3psi what did it drop to by 5.5k?. Did it hold onto that 5.6psi when bypassing it for a lot higher rpm?

If say 3.5k rpm intercooler peaks 5.3psi but by 5.5k drops to 4Psi.
If non intercooler 5.6psi peak at 3.5k but it holds onto it till 5.5k, or maybe makes 5.5psi at 5.5k rpm you can see the real difference.

Or just get an aftermarket market map sensor, or install boost gauge.

[BlOody_BoOger]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Ok it’s all making more sense now.

Stock map sensor only reads to 5.6psi.

Looking at your intercooler setup I thought it would create a good 1-1.5psi drop. I bet you are making closer to 7psi when bypassing it.



You have OFT so you could datalog this. With intercooler you peaked 5.3psi what did it drop to by 5.5k?. Did it hold onto that 5.6psi when bypassing it for a lot higher rpm?



If say 3.5k rpm intercooler peaks 5.3psi but by 5.5k drops to 4Psi.

If non intercooler 5.6psi peak at 3.5k but it holds onto it till 5.5k, or maybe makes 5.5psi at 5.5k rpm you can see the real difference.



Or just get an aftermarket market map sensor, or install boost gauge.

Surprisingly it's holding boost better it never actually dropped untill I let off at 5500rpm

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by BlOody_BoOger

Surprisingly it's holding boost better it never actually dropped untill I let off at 5500rpm

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Interesting. I know ecutek it only reads 19.9 total psi with stock map, which minus 14.7psi ambient is 5.2 psi. With my scangauge it’ll read to 5.6psi. My mechanical gauge however says i am at 12.5psi. I don’t remember what OFT map reads. I know stock sensor is very limited though. I would stop doing pulls until you get a new MAP sensor or at least boost gauge to see real numbers. Maybe you are really making about 7psi. It would be surprising to me at least with bypassing intercooler if you didn’t. But that intercooler should have a 1-1.5 psi drop.