Wont go into gear

[IsaiahW]

Installed new transmission and clutch itll go into gear with vehicle off but not with the vehicle on i have no leaks good resistance from the pressure plate and clutch pedal what are ways i can test theories


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[Ohio Enthusiast]

What's the clutch? ACT?

[IsaiahW]

Comp twin disc


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[soundman98]

means something isn't set up right and the clutch isn't disengaging entirely.

[blsfrs]

Tried this?

[IsaiahW]

Originally Posted by soundman98

means something isn't set up right and the clutch isn't disengaging entirely.

Would i hear any grinding or chatter from the trans if i didnt set it properly? Im asking because i dont have any noise but i did the ole start in first gear with clutch applied but its as if the pressure plate is done or my adjustment could be off. I have a comp twin disk and tilton hydraulic release bearing everything is new. I forgot to note that this is a cd009 swap


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[blsfrs]

You won't hear grinding on forward gears because you are bumping into the synchro rings. Grinding when attempting to put in reverse if your clutch is not disengaging.

[Ohio Enthusiast]

Originally Posted by blsfrs

You won't hear grinding on forward gears because you are bumping into the synchro rings. Grinding when attempting to put in reverse if your clutch is not disengaging.

As far as I know the Twins have a synchromesh reverse as well so would be no different than forward gears. Also, if you keep pushing the lever into a gear with the clutch not fully disengaged you'll grind regardless of synchros.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by IsaiahW

Would i hear any grinding or chatter from the trans if i didnt set it properly? Im asking because i dont have any noise but i did the ole start in first gear with clutch applied but its as if the pressure plate is done or my adjustment could be off. I have a comp twin disk and tilton hydraulic release bearing everything is new. I forgot to note that this is a cd009 swap


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Originally Posted by Ohio Enthusiast

As far as I know the Twins have a synchromesh reverse as well so would be no different than forward gears. Also, if you keep pushing the lever into a gear with the clutch not fully disengaged you'll grind regardless of synchros.

Not a lot we can probably do. Any guesses could be way off base since there are thousands of things that could go wrong with a swapped unit.

[RedReplicant]

Your release bearing probably isn't set up properly so you're not getting disengagement.

[IsaiahW]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

Your release bearing probably isn't set up properly so you're not getting disengagement.

Yah i manage to get a video of the bearing in action i know the tilton is self adjusting but should it be riding like that in the picture im not sure if its constantly applying pressure or what but it wasnt this pressed in when I installed the bearing this is without the clutch applied i thought it was suppose to be just a hair off the pressure plate even still this shouldn’t be the problem ill still be able to go into gear



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[Ultramaroon]

You mean just touching the fingers? Yes, that's how it works. Link the video.

[IsaiahW]

So I’m not sure how to post a video but I spoke with tilton they were really helpful had me run a few test to see if its the hydraulic bearing. Everything seems to work properly so they suggested that it could very well be the clutch if the trans is new and mechanically sound. Also mentioned that for swaps like these it could be hard to get the input shaft center of the pilot bearing when you have very little space to work with. Lots of times if not center it could push the pilot bearing out of its proper place. But could also be the pressure plate being bad, clutch disc not being installed correctly, etc so dropping the trans is my only option. Im a truck driver and have little ones so i just don’t have time to drop the transmission anymore so I contacted a transmission shop as soon as i told them it was a manual swap and wasn’t a stock transmission they declined the work. All i wanted them to do was drop the trans and inspect the clutch, and pilot bearing if the clutch needed to be replaced id send the clutch back and use my warranty since its new. If i cant a shop to do that simple job i might give up on this build and sell it for a type R at this point.


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[blsfrs]

Originally Posted by IsaiahW

So I’m not sure how to post a video but I spoke with tilton they were really helpful had me run a few test to see if its the hydraulic bearing. Everything seems to work properly so they suggested that it could very well be the clutch if the trans is new and mechanically sound. Also mentioned that for swaps like these it could be hard to get the input shaft center of the pilot bearing when you have very little space to work with. Lots of times if not center it could push the pilot bearing out of its proper place. But could also be the pressure plate being bad, clutch disc not being installed correctly, etc so dropping the trans is my only option. Im a truck driver and have little ones so i just don’t have time to drop the transmission anymore so I contacted a transmission shop as soon as i told them it was a manual swap and wasn’t a stock transmission they declined the work. All i wanted them to do was drop the trans and inspect the clutch, and pilot bearing if the clutch needed to be replaced id send the clutch back and use my warranty since its new. If i cant a shop to do that simple job i might give up on this build and sell it for a type R at this point.


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You might call All Aspects. They're in Greatbridge over in Chesapeake and do a lot of Subbie and Miata mtrsports work.