Push-to-Start proximity issue

[sharpsicle]

I've been having an intermittent issue where the push-to-start isn't always recognizing the fob being in proximity. It happens maybe 25% of the time, and happens on both fobs, even with replaced batteries. I haven't noticed any problem with the door lock sensors though, as they lock and unlock with my hand's proximity just fine.

If I rest the fob directly touching the push-to-start, it recognizes it after about 45seconds or so.

Is there an easy way to test to see if by some coincidence I have 2 faulty fobs, or if it's a problem with the internal prox sensor? I'm trying to narrow it down, and right now all signs point to the button, but I'm not sure. Any help?

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

I've been having an intermittent issue where the push-to-start isn't always recognizing the fob being in proximity. It happens maybe 25% of the time, and happens on both fobs, even with replaced batteries. I haven't noticed any problem with the door lock sensors though, as they lock and unlock with my hand's proximity just fine.

If I rest the fob directly touching the push-to-start, it recognizes it after about 45seconds or so.

Is there an easy way to test to see if by some coincidence I have 2 faulty fobs, or if it's a problem with the internal prox sensor? I'm trying to narrow it down, and right now all signs point to the button, but I'm not sure. Any help?

It might be the interior sensors or an immobilizer issue, as the exterior sensors are located in the doors and trunk areas. It also could be a sign of the cars battery needing to be replaced though, if it hasn't been replaced by an optima red or yellow and is the stock 2013 battery a whole slew of issues have been seen on the forum by the stock battery getting to end of its life. I can't find the post but someone was having issues getting the car to read the key and replacing the battery on the car fixed it.

[sharpsicle]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

It might be the interior sensors or an immobilizer issue, as the exterior sensors are located in the doors and trunk areas. It also could be a sign of the cars battery needing to be replaced though, if it hasn't been replaced by an optima red or yellow and is the stock 2013 battery a whole slew of issues have been seen on the forum by the stock battery getting to end of its life. I can't find the post but someone was having issues getting the car to read the key and replacing the battery on the car fixed it.

It has a yellow-top less than a year old, plus this will happen after it sitting only for 5min, while it still has a fresh charge.

I know it's either the prox receiver or the key fob, what I need is a way to test them independently of each other, which I can't figure out a good way to do.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

It has a yellow-top less than a year old, plus this will happen after it sitting only for 5min, while it still has a fresh charge.

I know it's either the prox receiver or the key fob, what I need is a way to test them independently of each other, which I can't figure out a good way to do.

Subaru TIS or techstream may have a method, or check the service manual @Ultramaroon care to drop that link?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by FRSBRZGT86FAN

Subaru TIS or techstream may have a method, or check the service manual @Ultramaroon care to drop that link?

See sig line.

[sharpsicle]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

See sig line.

Thanks for that! It only seems to cover checking whether or not the engine switch engages properly when pushed (unless I'm missing something, which wouldn't be the first time).

I get the fear that, like so many electronic components, it's a "replace and test" item. It is that push-to-start assembly that reads the fob correct? Not some other module down the line?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

Thanks for that! It only seems to cover checking whether or not the engine switch engages properly when pushed (unless I'm missing something, which wouldn't be the first time).

I get the fear that, like so many electronic components, it's a "replace and test" item. It is that push-to-start assembly that reads the fob correct? Not some other module down the line?

Try here first. THEFT DETERRENT / KEYLESS ENTRY: SMART KEY SYSTEM (for Start Function): HOW TO PROCEED WITH TROUBLESHOOTING; 2013 MY FR-S [05/2013 - ]


There's a whole section devoted to the smart key stuff. I just looked at it for the first time. Lotsa parts.

[FRSBRZGT86FAN]

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

Thanks for that! It only seems to cover checking whether or not the engine switch engages properly when pushed (unless I'm missing something, which wouldn't be the first time).

I get the fear that, like so many electronic components, it's a "replace and test" item. It is that push-to-start assembly that reads the fob correct? Not some other module down the line?

Try this one as well:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8374

Probably pertains better to the situation, as the FR-S don't have keyless push start unless it was a special model in some places

[Cebal]

Hi, it might be Clutch Pedal Position Switch which is faulty after some time. Few weeks ago I had a problem which my car started normally then after 2 seconds immobiliser cut it off and it was some problem with proxymity module. I wasn't able to repair it by myself tho.

[sharpsicle]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Try here first. THEFT DETERRENT / KEYLESS ENTRY: SMART KEY SYSTEM (for Start Function): HOW TO PROCEED WITH TROUBLESHOOTING; 2013 MY FR-S [05/2013 - ]


There's a whole section devoted to the smart key stuff. I just looked at it for the first time. Lotsa parts.

That's some good stuff, thanks.

Passing over the techstream code reading (which, since the car always starts eventually tells me it's not a problem with key code retention) it appears that since all other troubleshooting is functional that it is indeed a "replace and check" situation.

The only other thing it mentions that would fall in with the symptoms is wave interference, but since I get random results in the same place at the same time of day, it seems unlikely.

Guess I'm buying a new engine switch assembly. Short of that, it looks like something the dealer would have to do with key coding and everything being re-done.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by sharpsicle

That's some good stuff, thanks.

Passing over the techstream code reading (which, since the car always starts eventually tells me it's not a problem with key code retention) it appears that since all other troubleshooting is functional that it is indeed a "replace and check" situation.

The only other thing it mentions that would fall in with the symptoms is wave interference, but since I get random results in the same place at the same time of day, it seems unlikely.

Guess I'm buying a new engine switch assembly. Short of that, it looks like something the dealer would have to do with key coding and everything being re-done.

I'm at work now but If you haven't yet purchased any parts, I can try to help more this evening. I skimmed over all that text pretty quickly to find you a relevant page last night.

[davesrave]

(2) Canceling the system operation:

Make sure the following conditions are met:
The engine switch is off.
The driver side door is closed.
The driver side door is unlocked.
Press the unlock switch of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly.
Open the driver side door within 5 seconds of completing the step above (driver side door: closed at beginning of step → opened).
With the driver side door open, press the unlock switch of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly 2 times within 5 seconds of completing the step above.
NOTICE:

If the driver side door is closed before or while pressing the unlock switch, the entry cancel setting mode will end.

Close and open the driver door twice (driver door: open → closed → opened → closed → opened).
With the driver door open, press the unlock switch of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly 2 times.
NOTICE:

If the driver side door is closed before or while pressing the unlock switch, the entry cancel setting mode will end.

Close and open the driver door (driver door: open → closed → opened).
Close the driver side door within 5 seconds of completing the above step.
Check that the wireless buzzer sounds twice (short beeps) to confirm that the smart key system has been canceled.
HINT:

Finish steps 5 to 7 within 30 seconds.

(3) Perform the following procedure to restore the smart key system to the active state from the canceled state.

Perform the procedures to cancel the smart key system again.
Check that the wireless buzzer sounds once (short beep) to confirm that the smart key system has been restored to the active state.
HINT:

The system changes between the canceled state and the active state each time the procedure to cancel the system is performed.
The buzzer sounds twice when the system changes from the active state to the canceled state, and sounds once when the system changes from the canceled state to the active state.

[sharpsicle]

Originally Posted by davesrave

(2) Canceling the system operation:

Make sure the following conditions are met:
The engine switch is off.
The driver side door is closed.
The driver side door is unlocked.
Press the unlock switch of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly.
Open the driver side door within 5 seconds of completing the step above (driver side door: closed at beginning of step → opened).
With the driver side door open, press the unlock switch of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly 2 times within 5 seconds of completing the step above.
NOTICE:

If the driver side door is closed before or while pressing the unlock switch, the entry cancel setting mode will end.

Close and open the driver door twice (driver door: open → closed → opened → closed → opened).
With the driver door open, press the unlock switch of the electrical key transmitter sub-assembly 2 times.
NOTICE:

If the driver side door is closed before or while pressing the unlock switch, the entry cancel setting mode will end.

Close and open the driver door (driver door: open → closed → opened).
Close the driver side door within 5 seconds of completing the above step.
Check that the wireless buzzer sounds twice (short beeps) to confirm that the smart key system has been canceled.
HINT:

Finish steps 5 to 7 within 30 seconds.

(3) Perform the following procedure to restore the smart key system to the active state from the canceled state.

Perform the procedures to cancel the smart key system again.
Check that the wireless buzzer sounds once (short beep) to confirm that the smart key system has been restored to the active state.
HINT:

The system changes between the canceled state and the active state each time the procedure to cancel the system is performed.
The buzzer sounds twice when the system changes from the active state to the canceled state, and sounds once when the system changes from the canceled state to the active state.

I'm a bit lost, what exactly am I trying to test with this? The buttons on the fobs work just fine, and the keyless door sensors are working without issue. The only problem I experience is when starting the car. Is there something here I'm missing in relation to the in-cabin prox sensor?

[davesrave]

You mentioned "If I rest the fob directly touching the push-to-start, it recognizes it after about 45 seconds or so." So I thought you may have cancelled the push to start function. This instruction tells you how to un-cancel it.