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Old 07-01-2015, 04:26 AM   #43
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I need help !

I got the DSS Axle + Hub Kit - and everything went smooth with no problems, got the axles in and the Hub, torqued all hub bolts to the specs and put the disk and caliper back on etc…

now when i tighten the Shaft nut - nothing will move anymore. its completely blocked… even with 40NM of torque nothing moves anymore.. ? HOW ?

after 6h of waiting DSS got back to me and told me that it must be hitting anything on the back but it clears everything fine,only once torqued the bearing won't move anymore..

Bad bearing or does anyone have an idea???
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Old 07-01-2015, 04:34 PM   #44
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Are the axles symmetric meaning just one part number?
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Old 01-18-2016, 05:33 PM   #45
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Help.

Replacing OEM busted axle w/ gently used OEM axle. First time. Got everything done, but am stuck at trying to get the new axle to seat in the diff. Had to use a lot of force to get the old one out (that seems standard). Any tips?

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Old 02-07-2016, 02:47 AM   #46
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ysr50guy View Post
So after changing my axles I found out the easiest way to do it is by unbolting the differential and lowereing it. Its also a big plus because you don't touch none of your suspension so you don't need a alignment afterwards. Here's a quick diy for anyone planning on tackling this on their own:
1. Jack up car and support with jack stands.
2. Remove the wheel on the side you will be replacing the axle on. Pull the ebrake and remove the axle nut, you need a 32mm socket.
3. Jack up the lower control arm in till your shocks start compressing and the whole car raises just slightly. This puts the axle in a angle and makes it easier to remove.
4. I use a harbor freight 24in tire iron and rubber mallet to pull the axle from the differential, super easy you just need one good hit. (Axle won't come off completely you only need to pull it 2 or 3 inches)
5. Now you need to support the differential with a jack and unbolt the 5 bolts that holds it in place, 2 on the side and 3 on the rear. Impact gun makes the job easy.
6. Start lowering the differential in till you have enough angle for the axle to pop off. Make sure diffrential doesn't tilt to the side or it will leak oil.
7. To remove the other side of the axle you just give it a small tap where you remove the 32mm nut and pull it out of the hub assembly.
To reinstall new axle just follow instructions in reverse order.
I will be replacing my axles next weekend. Can anyone else confirm this as being an easier way to remove the axles. I would prefer not to have to get an alignment.
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Old 02-07-2016, 09:11 AM   #47
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I can swap a axle in 15 minutes


1 Jack car under diff
2 Remove axle nut
3 Take a hammer and punch hit axle on the outer shaft too make sure it slides freely
4 remove outer bolt on lower control arm ( note you also might have to remove sway bar bolt) and pull down to free spindle
5 Push rear of tire out, it should move out and forward while sliding the axle out and down.
6 Take a pry bar between axle and diff case be sure not to pry against the seal and pop out axle
7 reverse procedure for install.


If its your first time figure on 30 to 40 a side after you do one it will be super easy and fast. I also suggest getting all your tools needed laid out where your going to need them. Torque axle nut to specs don't just tighten it or you will have a clicking noise or early bearing failure. On that note you should really torque everything to do it right. Also some people like to take the rear tow link off also to make it easier to remove and install axle not necessary but that's a option you might consider.
When your trying to remove the axle it clips in to the diff so don't be gentle she likes it rough, and will pop out but your not going to get it out being gentle.
No alignment needed if you only remove ball joint side of tow control link
good luck


Axle nut 140ft-lbs
Rear stabilizer Link assembly x Rear No. 2 suspension arm assembly 28 ft-lbs
Rear No. 1 suspension arm assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 81 ft-lbs
Rear No. 2 suspension arm assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 59 ft-lbs

Toe control link sub-assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 44 ft-lbs




















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Last edited by FRS Justin; 02-07-2016 at 09:36 AM.
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:46 PM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRS Justin View Post
I can swap a axle in 15 minutes


1 Jack car under diff
2 Remove axle nut
3 Take a hammer and punch hit axle on the outer shaft too make sure it slides freely
4 remove outer bolt on lower control arm ( note you also might have to remove sway bar bolt) and pull down to free spindle
5 Push rear of tire out, it should move out and forward while sliding the axle out and down.
6 Take a pry bar between axle and diff case be sure not to pry against the seal and pop out axle
7 reverse procedure for install.


If its your first time figure on 30 to 40 a side after you do one it will be super easy and fast. I also suggest getting all your tools needed laid out where your going to need them. Torque axle nut to specs don't just tighten it or you will have a clicking noise or early bearing failure. On that note you should really torque everything to do it right. Also some people like to take the rear tow link off also to make it easier to remove and install axle not necessary but that's a option you might consider.
When your trying to remove the axle it clips in to the diff so don't be gentle she likes it rough, and will pop out but your not going to get it out being gentle.
No alignment needed if you only remove ball joint side of tow control link
good luck


Axle nut 140ft-lbs
Rear stabilizer Link assembly x Rear No. 2 suspension arm assembly 28 ft-lbs
Rear No. 1 suspension arm assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 81 ft-lbs
Rear No. 2 suspension arm assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 59 ft-lbs

Toe control link sub-assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 44 ft-lbs




















Thanks bud. You're a life saver. I'll let you know how it goes this weekend. Also I hope your frs is ready because I'll definitely be going up to SAR to meet up and race.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:06 PM   #49
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If the axle/cv boot fails while driving, is the damage catastrophic to other parts of the drivetrain/suspension? Or is it something that when it occurs, you can just coast to the side, call a tow truck, tow it back home, order a new axle, install and you're good to go?
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Old 02-09-2016, 01:26 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by tracerit View Post
If the axle/cv boot fails while driving, is the damage catastrophic to other parts of the drivetrain/suspension? Or is it something that when it occurs, you can just coast to the side, call a tow truck, tow it back home, order a new axle, install and you're good to go?
I broke mine at the track by basically dumping the clutch at 7800rpm on a sticky track all it did was creep about a inch. It sheared the axle off inside the boot. If you snap a axle all you will be able to do is coast trust me lol. I would imagine if it rips through the boot when it breaks bad stuff is going to happen.
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Old 02-09-2016, 01:29 AM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FT86RGV View Post
Thanks bud. You're a life saver. I'll let you know how it goes this weekend. Also I hope your frs is ready because I'll definitely be going up to SAR to meet up and race.
I'm getting ready for TX2k but will definitely meet you at SAR any night just message me with the time and date. Might bring the Auto FRS out for a few passes lol
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:56 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FRS Justin View Post
I can swap a axle in 15 minutes


1 Jack car under diff
2 Remove axle nut
3 Take a hammer and punch hit axle on the outer shaft too make sure it slides freely
4 remove outer bolt on lower control arm ( note you also might have to remove sway bar bolt) and pull down to free spindle
5 Push rear of tire out, it should move out and forward while sliding the axle out and down.
6 Take a pry bar between axle and diff case be sure not to pry against the seal and pop out axle
7 reverse procedure for install.


If its your first time figure on 30 to 40 a side after you do one it will be super easy and fast. I also suggest getting all your tools needed laid out where your going to need them. Torque axle nut to specs don't just tighten it or you will have a clicking noise or early bearing failure. On that note you should really torque everything to do it right. Also some people like to take the rear tow link off also to make it easier to remove and install axle not necessary but that's a option you might consider.
When your trying to remove the axle it clips in to the diff so don't be gentle she likes it rough, and will pop out but your not going to get it out being gentle.
No alignment needed if you only remove ball joint side of tow control link
good luck


Axle nut 140ft-lbs
Rear stabilizer Link assembly x Rear No. 2 suspension arm assembly 28 ft-lbs
Rear No. 1 suspension arm assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 81 ft-lbs
Rear No. 2 suspension arm assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 59 ft-lbs

Toe control link sub-assembly x Rear axle carrier sub-assembly 44 ft-lbs




















nice diy, i got a questio; is there any way of taking out the axle without disconnecting the LCA? i got SPC, it will mess up the alignment if i take out the hub side bolt. thanks.

I'm a little nervous doing DIY on important stuff like this. i got jack stands and torque wrench though.
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:28 PM   #53
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nice diy, i got a questio; is there any way of taking out the axle without disconnecting the LCA? i got SPC, it will mess up the alignment if i take out the hub side bolt. thanks.

I'm a little nervous doing DIY on important stuff like this. i got jack stands and torque wrench though.
I just looked at the SPC LCA on that particular Arm take it off on the inside as the outside has a concentric washer for alignment but the inside the is a single non adjustable bolt
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...0.jpg?rep=True
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Old 06-06-2016, 11:41 AM   #54
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Should i put high temp grease on the diff side of axle?


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Old 08-22-2016, 03:29 PM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redlined600 View Post
Are the axles symmetric meaning just one part number?
Yes they're the same, both sides
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Old 08-22-2016, 03:50 PM   #56
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Originally Posted by FRS Justin View Post
I just looked at the SPC LCA on that particular Arm take it off on the inside as the outside has a concentric washer for alignment but the inside the is a single non adjustable bolt
http://static.summitracing.com/globa...0.jpg?rep=True
If you remove the inner bolt, the LCA is still bolted to the sway bar arm? and the strut. If you unbolt them all and just leave the outer bolt (the one with the camber adjustment), it is very easy to move the arm (up and down) and a big chance to loose alignment. I unfortunately have the SPC arms too, and found out I have a broken inner boot on the driver's side DSS axle one day after aligning the car...

Will probably try the lowering diff method to not touch the suspension at all.
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