Help buying Suspension parts

[autoracer86]

Looking to upgrade my suspension use case would be Comfy/NVH good enough for a road trip plus track usage(HPDE). Figure about 5 a year . Tires at the moment are 215 pilot sports 4 on stock wheels. Planning on upgrading at some stage to a 17x9 255 tire such as a yoko A502. I won't be going to slicks

Coilovers:
RCE SS2s I was also considering the tarmac 2s plus the 949racing topmounts but I think for my use case the SS2s will do just fine. SS2s will come ready to install with front camber plates and rear top mounts

RLCA:
SPL Titanium not sure what makes a good RLCA other than I would like something that doesn't use an eccentric bolt for the camber adjustment.

Rear Toe Arm:
SPL Adjustable Rear Toe Arm With Eccentric Lockout. I am pretty sure the stock toe arms will hit 0 degrees with the drop I plan to run but I do like the idea of replacing the rusty stock ones and replacing the eccentric bolts with the lockout

EndLinks:
SPL Pro front long length and SPL pro rear endlinks. They sure do look pretty not sure how they will hold up to the Irish weather and roads. I think the whiteline setup or something similar might be a better buy if I am honest

Open to suggestions on all the parts listed. Ride height wise I want to stay as stock as possible. I think RCE recommends a 25mm drop on the SS2.

Also please let me know if you think I should buy anything else. Maybe Roll center parts for the front and or rear. I wasn't sure if it was needed with such a small drop.

Thanks all

[Jdmjunkie]

I would recommend the Spl toe arms just for the reason that you can get the eccentric lock out so that the toe doesn't change after hitting curbs at the track.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by Jdmjunkie

I would recommend the Spl toe arms just for the reason that you can get the eccentric lock out so that the toe doesn't change after hitting curbs at the track.

Yeah I don't see myself removing them from the build. WOOPs I forgot to write the part I was thinking of getting lol. List now updated. Thanks for that

[ZDan]

I just ordered RCE SS-2 for my '23

Honestly I don't think you need any of the other stuff. I time trial and tenths of a second matter to me, I'm just getting the coilovers, nothing else. Lowering the car 25-30mm will put the rear camber in a decent place for cornering grip, and not too much to give "camber wear" as long as you keep toe-in minimized.

IMO aftermarket LRCAs and toe links/etc. are overprescribed and usually unnecessary.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by ZDan

I just ordered RCE SS-2 for my '23

Honestly I don't think you need any of the other stuff. I time trial and tenths of a second matter to me, I'm just getting the coilovers, nothing else. Lowering the car 25-30mm will put the rear camber in a decent place for cornering grip, and not too much to give "camber wear" as long as you keep toe-in minimized.

IMO aftermarket LRCAs and toe links/etc. are overprescribed and usually unnecessary.

Are you using the stock endlinks as well ? I would think having rear camber adjustment is important rather than just hoping the camber is good window after being lowered.

I see you're using a 2023 so your car is basically new mine not so much lol. Adding new control arms and toe links also help to freshen up the suspension. Hard to say how much effect that has but I have to assume replacing a near 10 year old bushing with a rose joint is going to do SOMETHING lol

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by Jdmjunkie

I would recommend the Spl toe arms just for the reason that you can get the eccentric lock out so that the toe doesn't change after hitting curbs at the track.

I've never had my toe get knocked out from pounding curbs at the track with the factory arms on my '17, even when I went over the back edge of curbing as 12b NHMS and bent two wheels :O

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

Are you using the stock endlinks as well ? I would think having rear camber adjustment is important rather than just hoping the camber is good window after being lowered.

Yeah, factory end links. On the '17, rear toe wound up at -2.7 to -2.9, pretty much where I would want to set it for street track anyway. See where the '23 winds up soon enough, honestly as long rear camber lands between -2 to -3.5 and within 0.5 L/R I'm not worrying about it. Front camber is a lot more important anyway.

I see you're using a 2023 so your car is basically new mine not so much lol. Adding new control arms and toe links also help to freshen up the suspension. Hard to say how much effect that has but I have to assume replacing a near 10 year old bushing with a rose joint is going to do SOMETHING lol

Bushings can last a LONG time. Factory bushings were fine in my '17 after 5+ years, 82k miles and maybe 48 track days. Won multiple time trial championships with all factory arms and toe links. It's not like the factory bushings are super-compliant, IMO they do a good job.

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Yeah, factory end links. On the '17, rear toe wound up at -2.7 to -2.9, pretty much where I would want to set it for street track anyway. See where the '23 winds up soon enough, honestly as long rear camber lands between -2 to -3.5 and within 0.5 L/R I'm not worrying about it. Front camber is a lot more important anyway.



Bushings can last a LONG time. Factory bushings were fine in my '17 after 5+ years, 82k miles and maybe 48 track days. Won multiple time trial championships with all factory arms and toe links. It's not like the factory bushings are super-compliant, IMO they do a good job.

It sounds like you’re saying in your case there was no need to upgrade not necessarily that the parts don’t add any benefit.

[autoracer86]

What do you expect front camber wise from the SS2 Zdan ?

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by autoracer86

It sounds like you’re saying in your case there was no need to upgrade not necessarily that the parts don’t add any benefit.

I think the benefit would be small relative to $ spent. In my case mods add classification points and I would have to had ballast weight. 40 lb. for non-factory control arms and 40 lb. for heim joints in place of factory rubber bushings.

Originally Posted by autoracer86

What do you expect front camber wise from the SS2 Zdan ?

I asked and they said up to -3.5, that's what I'm aiming for.

[MrSkubi]

Originally Posted by ZDan

I asked and they said up to -3.5, that's what I'm aiming for.

Just wondering is it possible to get to this values in Kw style coilover without additional camber bolts between strut and knuckle ? I'm on a fence right now between gettinG ST XTA with upgraded spring rate, importing something from US (looking only at RCE SS1 or SS2 at the moment) or spending even more on KW Clubsport over here in EU

[Racecomp Engineering]

80 lbs of penalty ballast weight would probably not be worth it.

I've had my OEM toe adjuster slip...after a rally-x. A bit of a different use case but yes it can happen. Most people do keep the OEM toe arm.

I am a bit particular about alignment so adjustable rear LCAs is important to me after a coilover install. I do like having just right. However, at times that I was at or near stock height (for instance when I was rally crossing) the factory arms were fine. I think my car is also lucky to end up at similar left/right settings without adjustment, which doesn't always happen. Uneven settings would bother me.

In terms of bushings, it is noticeable in my opinion...more so the toe and trailing arm than the LCA. Unlikely to make you much faster on the track, but it is more confidence inspiring and feels more connected in a good way. The stickier the tire, the bigger the difference.

All of the above are things you can add later, too.

- Andrew

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by MrSkubi

Just wondering is it possible to get to this values in Kw style coilover without additional camber bolts between strut and knuckle ? I'm on a fence right now between gettinG ST XTA with upgraded spring rate, importing something from US (looking only at RCE SS1 or SS2 at the moment) or spending even more on KW Clubsport over here in EU

With our coilovers and KWs, we often use another set of the factory lower bolt in the upper hole...so 2 sets of the lower bolt per side. This helps you get about -2.2 degrees even on stock topmounts, so with camber plates in addition to that it's not difficult to get -3.5.

- Andrew

[autoracer86]

Originally Posted by MrSkubi

Just wondering is it possible to get to this values in Kw style coilover without additional camber bolts between strut and knuckle ? I'm on a fence right now between gettinG ST XTA with upgraded spring rate, importing something from US (looking only at RCE SS1 or SS2 at the moment) or spending even more on KW Clubsport over here in EU

Personally I am just going to bite the bullet and pay all the fees Its the custom valving that makes these worth the hassle they aren't just off the shelf ST shocks but in terms of camber the ST setup with camber plates and the RCE SS should be the same