Ohlins Road & Track - settings (clicks) for street/track/ax

[dp1]

Please reply with your favorite settings, for example:
Street 10f/11r
Track 5f/5r

First fully tighten the rebound adjuster knob by turning it clockwise, then count clicks while turning it counterclockwise (a.k.a., clicks from "full hard").

Ohlins recommends (front and rear):
Track 0-7 clicks
Winding road 5-10 clicks
Street 10-20 clicks

Here is what I found on the forum:

@Jhon19lopez: "Rides amazing and easy to adjust. I have it 7 clicks out from stiffest setting and my head isn't about to break off like cheaper coils. I could tell a difference from my kw v3."

@h4nh: "The ride after was amazing! I have it 7 clicks from firmest and it does not make my head explode. It handles a lot better than the kw v3's."

@mav1178: "Street: 10-12 clicks yields the best results for Los Angeles streets. This may be a combination of my tires (Toyo T1 Sport) with the coilovers, but a firmer street setting has better rebound control and ride quality.
Track: I've experimented with anywhere from 2-6 clicks on the coilovers, and found (so far) that bumpier tracks do best with around 5 clicks. I have yet to run any super-smooth tracks, but will dial in a stiffer setting on those."

@Dezoris: "These are single adjustable dampers with clicker settings that go from 1 (Stiffest) to 20 (Softest). The clickers are located on the bottom of the struts and access is easy from under the car. The rear adjuster knobs are at the top of the shock making adjustment easy from the trunk. We settled on 15 clicks front and 16 rear as the felt softer and superior to OEM."

This was a quick search to pick a starting point, will post my favorite settings later.

[Dezoris]

One of the reasons why I like this setup is, for street use and autox. Which in my area requires much softer settings. But the range is extreme enough for a super smooth track surface as well.

Cold Weather Pavement More Bumpy
Street: 17F 18R

Warm Weather Pavement Relaxed
Street: 15F 16R
AutoX: 12F 13R (Still usually choppy pavement)
Track: 6F 7R

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

One of the reasons why I like this setup is, for street use and autox. Which in my area requires much softer settings. But the range is extreme enough for a super smooth track surface as well.

Cold Weather Pavement More Bumpy
Street: 17F 18R

Warm Weather Pavement Relaxed
Street: 15F 16R
AutoX: 12F 13R (Still usually choppy pavement)
Track: 6F 7R

Are those values "open amount" counting down from 20? Ie: 17= 3/20 (17 open) from full closed/stiffest setting? Also I note on your settings always 1 less stuff on back.. Even though spring rates equal on these does it feel more natural for back to sink more?

[dp1]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Are those values "open amount" counting down from 20? Ie: 17= 3/20 (17 open) from full closed/stiffest setting? Also I note on your settings always 1 less stuff on back.. Even though spring rates equal on these does it feel more natural for back to sink more?

Counting is based on my initial suggestion and also observed by stiffer settings (less clicks from full hard) for track than street

[mav1178]

Adjustment is based off clicks from full stiff, most suspension on the market is adjusted this way.

Having said that, I think a lot of the individual preferences will be dictated by tire and alignment settings.

-alex

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by dp1

Counting is based on my initial suggestion and also observed by stiffer settings (less clicks from full hard) for track than street

Yup figured just like to be sure. What coilovers were you on previously?

[dp1]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Yup figured just like to be sure. What coilovers were you on previously?

Stock

[Dezoris]

Originally Posted by OICU812

Are those values "open amount" counting down from 20? Ie: 17= 3/20 (17 open) from full closed/stiffest setting? Also I note on your settings always 1 less stuff on back.. Even though spring rates equal on these does it feel more natural for back to sink more?

With even rates due to rear multilink the rear still will effectively be stiffer. Did not do the math on it though.
Front has more weight to contend with typically front settings go slightly firmer than rear to deal with that. Again it feels right, but this is a street car with some track time, not a race car. Dialing in the clicker settings is completely variable based on too many variables but in this case these settings seem to be a good generic basis for good performance.

[OICU812]

Originally Posted by Dezoris

With even rates due to rear multilink the rear still will effectively be stiffer. Did not do the math on it though.
Front has more weight to contend with typically front settings go slightly firmer than rear to deal with that. Again it feels right, but this is a street car with some track time, not a race car. Dialing in the clicker settings is completely variable based on too many variables but in this case these settings seem to be a good generic basis for good performance.

Ok I appreciate that explination of your experience, just seen the trend and was curious and how you mention makes perfect sense. Thanks for your time and good idea to the Original Poster btw. Having such threads is very valuable for (starting points).

[Racecomp Engineering]

One quick thing, don't expect 10 clicks on the front to "equal" 10 clicks in the rear. The front and rear aren't valved exactly the same....yes you'll likely be close to the same number of clicks as that's how the ranges are designed but a 10 in front isn't necessarily a 10 in back. Heh. Ain't that the truth.

- Andy

[ja1217]

Full soft on street all around
4f/4r on track/autocross

I left ride height as it came from Ohlins (-20mm f/-15mm r).

Camber: -2.7f/-1.8r
Toe: 0f/I think I have a very tiny amount in the rear, can't remember

I also got the car corner balanced, so the ride height might be slightly different that Ohlins default, but I haven't bothered measuring.

I haven't played around with adjusting settings on the track much. I've just stuck with 4 as it seems to behave pretty much how I want it to. Very neutral, with perhaps a very slight lean towards oversteer. It also doesn't seem so stiff that I can't attack curbs without having the car be bounced around.

[rome_brz]

Word on the street is that Ohlins sent a memo around discontinuing the R&T for the 86/BRZ?

[cdrazic93]

Although that would suck, I can see that; as not many people want to put 3k coilovers on a 25k car...

[rome_brz]

Originally Posted by cdrazic93

Although that would suck, I can see that; as not many people want to put 3k coilovers on a 25k car...

I was about to! In my case, $4.15k on a $40k car (Australia :P)

Decided to go with a different coilover as I don't know the reason they've done this.