Heavy "Shuttering" When Starting in 1st Gear

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by Spuds

You can adjust the pedal and thus throw out bearing travel pretty easily though.

That adjusts pedal position, not TOB engagement. I tried it when I encountered the issue. It doesn't change the throw, if it did, I didn't do it right. And I ran it through nearly it's entire range.

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Which shop? What has Verus had to say? PRE, AR?

Surgeline was the latest shop. I won't share the original to save them the grief. A part fixed this issue, not an adjustment, so technically, not the first shop's issue, just mine providing them the part(s) that didn't jive. I asked for adjustment. Only the clutch pedal height is adjustable, the clutch TOB hold off of clutch fingers, is not adjustable. I did try, but it's only the linkage and pedal distance off the floor. It does not adjust the hydraulic clutch slave cylinder rod, which would move the fork and allow TOB spacing adjustment to hold it off when not engaged.

I did not contact Verus, I've had it in a while, not going to worry about it. I have no axe to grind with them, really just sharing my experience as I finally resolved this issue and the Verus fork was called out by Surgeline as the root cause of my clutch never fully disengaging. They also mentioned they have seen the same thing on other subarus with Verus forks. They didn't give much more detail than that. I'll still buy Verus parts, this is a one off and I can't even tell if it was truly the fork or a stack of tolerances off or what. Like I said, maybe in another thread, Surgeline did not find anything incorrect with the previous installation to attribute the issue to, just the fork with some wear on the fork, pivot and clutch slave rod. Pivot looked worn the most. But again, this issue was present immediately after installation of the new clutch and parts, it didn't become bad, it started that way.

[churchx]

If worn pivot was the case .. i guess, most won't see such case, simply because most might have chosen to replace both pivot & fork & TOB together (and many others have not worn excessively stock one yet) .. due them all being relatively cheap parts vs cost of work, so why not buy & install new ones preemptively during same transmission drop time.
But at same time i'd probably wouldn't spam forum with many posts of "don't get this part" either.

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by churchx

If worn pivot was the case .. i guess, most won't see such case, simply because most might have chosen to replace both pivot & fork & TOB together (and many others have not worn excessively stock one yet) .. due them all being relatively cheap parts vs cost of work, so why not buy & install new ones preemptively during same transmission drop time.
But at same time i'd probably wouldn't spam forum with many posts of "don't get this part" either.

I thought I was buying something better, just didn't turn out.

[Capt Spaulding]

I’m a little perplexed. Was the problem with the fork, or a worn pivot?

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Capt Spaulding

I’m a little perplexed. Was the problem with the fork, or a worn pivot?

Based on how the system works I would think both would have to be pretty messed up to cause an issue. I'm not ruling out misaligned disc either. Surgeline is a pretty well respected shop around here but that doesn't make them infallible. Offers were made to examine the fork, the other thread got a bit contentious, and it ended there.

I'd also wonder what verus has to say. If it was me, I'd want the part back for examination. Even if that meant reimbursement in full for a used part, I actually do this all the time at my job.