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Old 10-20-2021, 05:03 PM   #183
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Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86 View Post
Have you tried going to your local Auto Zone and have them pull one up for you on their Alldata system?
Hmm, no, I'll try that, thanks. I'm really only after the rear camera output at the moment so that'll work for the short term. Generally I like to have the full doc set so I'll hunt on eBay.
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Old 10-20-2021, 05:07 PM   #184
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Hmm, no, I'll try that, thanks. I'm really only after the rear camera output at the moment so that'll work for the short term. Generally I like to have the full doc set so I'll hunt on eBay.

Yeah, I mean it's free right? Couldn't hurt to try. Let us know if they have it.
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Old 10-20-2021, 09:04 PM   #185
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Geez, if I were you, I'd just pull that Kenwood out and install a cheap Walmart mechless Blaupunkt head unit in there instead and install the Kenwood into another vehicle. Something just bugs me when you set up a good time-aligned system for someone and then they want to use a bad-sounding source input like Bluetooth.

Audiophiles are in a different class from the regular Joesephines, I suppose.
I don't consider myself anywhere near audiophile, but I like to think that even if I it's something small, I like it done well. "Excellent" is good, but I set my bar at "well", which is still a higher standard than a lot of people's!



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Yeah, I looked at those Kicker KEY amps myself and they're good, high quality amps, but they're not flexible enough for my tastes. Besides, I need to have all of the adjustments
right in front of me while I'm in the driver's seat.

If you do end up with the four channel unit, make sure all of your other speakers in the system are disconnected when you run the setup routine or the setup will fail. If you plan to simply connect the amp outputs to the speaker wires in the back of the head unit, the setup WILL fail, since the amp must power only a single driver per channel. If you purchase TWO of those four channel KEY amps and wire each driver independently to the eight channels available, you can run the setup routine once per amp and it should get you very close to the ideal sound......
.....Actually looking closer at the specs of that amp, you won't be able to run your factory door speakers off it since they're 2-ohm. The KEY 180.4 isn't 2-ohm stable. Of course, there are ways around that. You can wire a 2-ohm ceramic resistor inline with each door speaker which will lower the volume by about 3db per speaker.....or you can replace those door speakers with 4-ohm aftermarket drivers.

It's a bit of a rabbit hole with these systems I've discovered.
Well from your description I'm not sure those things could work, Ideally there would be a small DSP for EQ/DTA sitting between the HU and the rest of the stock system, nothing mind blowing needed, just getting what's best out of what's already there, Or could it? like disable amp, disable dash tweeters, setup the DTA on the Key amp with the 4 x 4 inch speakers then reconnect everything?

But don't may me too much attention, it's all ifs and buts for eventually with no established time frame lol
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Old 10-21-2021, 01:49 AM   #186
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I don't consider myself anywhere near audiophile, but I like to think that even if I it's something small, I like it done well. "Excellent" is good, but I set my bar at "well", which is still a higher standard than a lot of people's!

Only YOU can determine what's the best setup for you.

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Well from your description I'm not sure those things could work, Ideally there would be a small DSP for EQ/DTA sitting between the HU and the rest of the stock system, nothing mind blowing needed, just getting what's best out of what's already there, Or could it? like disable amp, disable dash tweeters, setup the DTA on the Key amp with the 4 x 4 inch speakers then reconnect everything?

Those amps MIGHT work with a bit of extra labor and parts but I would contact Kicker to run this by them first. Here's what I would do if those are the amps that you choose and want to have all eight of the stock drivers operational:

Referencing the owners' manual for the Kicker KEY 180.4 here,
https://www.kicker.com/app/manuals/a...18_KEY_Amp.pdf

Feed the front speaker-level signals of the head unit to all four inputs of one amplifier, and power all four dash drivers, tweeters on the front channels and mid-range drivers on the rear channels with the Bi-Amp switch ON, the Fader switch set to OFF, the Hi-Pass set to 120Hz, the Time-Delay set to ON, and Kicker EQ set to ON. (You will probably have to bypass the capacitors on each midrange driver and each tweeter or you might get an error when you run the KEY AUTO SETUP.....I would......in fact I DID, on my factory tweeters for a while before I installed my new Kicker tweeters.) And also remember that you will want to run two new sets of speaker wires to the dash speakers due to them being paralleled together and tapped-off of for the signal to the factory amplifier. It's best to just NOT USE the factory dash wires when you're upgrading the twins' sound systems with aftermarket amplifiers. It gets a bit confusing if you're not familiar with how the stock wiring is, so it's just best not to use them.

Now here's where it will get a little tricky.....
Feed the FRONT signals again from the head unit to the REAR inputs of a second four channel amp, and power the DOOR speakers off of those two amp outputs. Feed the REAR signals from the head unit to the FRONT inputs of this second amp, and power the REAR speakers off of those two channels with the Bi-Amp switch to ON, the Fader switch to ON, the Hi-Pass switch set to where your door speakers don't distort too much (you'll need to experiment here but I suspect you will be able to play frequencies all the way down to the lowest available setpoint of 60Hz), the Time-Delay switch set to ON, and finally the Kicker EQ set to ON. Also, remember that you will have to add a 2-ohm ceramic resistor in series with each door speaker. I found that the load resistors that are needed in certain vehicles when swapping incandescent turn signal bulbs for LED bulbs will work in a series/parallel configuration, and work quite well. Just make sure the final measurement of the total speaker circuit is at least 4 ohms. Hint: the four wires for the door speakers can be accessed right at the 10-pin plug at the factory amplifier in the trunk.

The Compression switches and Auto Turn-On switches will be up to you to determine how you want them set. (If it were me, I would set the Compression switch to OFF and the Auto Turn-On switch to 12V and turn each amplifier on via the amplifier turn-on output or the antenna turn-on output from the head unit)

Run each amplifiers' KEY AUTO SETUP separately with the other amp shut off. Once both amps are automatically and successfully tuned by the KEY program, then adjust your gain settings like you normally would. Your head units' fader control should work as it did before.

Again, you should probably consult with Kicker technical support to make sure you can use fader control on the door speaker/rear speaker amp while it's in Bi-Amp mode, but if you can, you'll probably be pretty happy with the results.

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But don't may me too much attention, it's all ifs and buts for eventually with no established time frame lol

I hear you on that. It took me a long time researching equipment, figuring out how the stock system is set up, selecting equipment that will do the job I need it to do, and even since then, I've made some major changes. But I'm still having fun doing it!
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My pubes are shaped like the number 86. There for I’m car. Derp
Count to muffens and call again.
I’m 40. So....... say hi to your sisters or daughters.
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Old 10-22-2021, 05:55 PM   #187
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All wire looms and materials for 2020 adapter available

As one of the early owners of a 2020 Hakone Edition 86, I recently purchased all of the pieces necessary to complete the wiring harness adapter to reinstate the door woofer amplifier. I just returned from a 2 1/2 week vacation and was looking forward to starting this project.

Alas, this Thursday, my 2020 Hakone met an untimely end in a front end altercation with a telephone pole due to driver stupidity. I now have a complete set of all of the adapters and insulation necessary to make this kit.

Anyone interested in "Let's Make a Deal" for said parts, please feel free to PM me.

Doug Ruby

[UPDATE: Parts are sold. Thank you fellow 86'rs)]

Last edited by etherdude; 10-26-2021 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 10-22-2021, 10:22 PM   #188
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PM Sent.
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Old 10-23-2021, 12:11 AM   #189
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As one of the early owners of a 2020 Hakone Edition 86, I recently purchased all of the pieces necessary to complete the wiring harness adapter to reinstate the door woofer amplifier. I just returned from a 2 1/2 week vacation and was looking forward to starting this project.

Alas, this Thursday, my 2020 Hakone met an untimely end in a front end altercation with a telephone pole due to driver stupidity. I now have a complete set of all of the adapters and insulation necessary to make this kit.

Anyone interested in "Let's Make a Deal" for said parts, please feel free to PM me.

Doug Ruby

Yeah, those telephone poles refuse to move even when you honk at them. Sorry to hear about the loss. Hope you're okay.

P. S. If I remember correctly, somebody around here is looking for a Harmon head unit to install into their earlier model car. Maybe you can sell them yours if you're parting it out?
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Last edited by FR-S2GT86; 10-23-2021 at 01:03 AM.
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Old 10-23-2021, 11:44 AM   #190
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Yeah, those telephone poles refuse to move even when you honk at them. Sorry to hear about the loss. Hope you're okay.

P. S. If I remember correctly, somebody around here is looking for a Harmon head unit to install into their earlier model car. Maybe you can sell them yours if you're parting it out?
Yeah...however, if the insurance company totals it which I am certain they will, then I will take the money and run and they will own it (note no loan is outstanding). I definitely will not part this out.
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Old 10-23-2021, 02:06 PM   #191
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Yeah...however, if the insurance company totals it which I am certain they will, then I will take the money and run and they will own it (note no loan is outstanding). I definitely will not part this out.

If "no loan is outstanding" means that it's fully paid off, then that means it's still yours until you sign the insurance claim forms. Which means that you can remove anything from the car that you like before you sign them, right?

Go pull that head unit out and help one of our other members. I'm sure they've all been good to you.
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Count to muffens and call again.
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Old 10-23-2021, 03:52 PM   #192
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If "no loan is outstanding" means that it's fully paid off, then that means it's still yours until you sign the insurance claim forms. Which means that you can remove anything from the car that you like before you sign them, right?

Go pull that head unit out and help one of our other members. I'm sure they've all been good to you.
i had a short conversation about that with state farm when my car was totalled. they simply require the car to be 'all there'. meaning that i could take my tail lights, and the entire stereo system, but had to leave the stock stuff at least in a pile inside the car.
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Old 10-24-2021, 11:25 AM   #193
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i had a short conversation about that with state farm when my car was totalled. they simply require the car to be 'all there'. meaning that i could take my tail lights, and the entire stereo system, but had to leave the stock stuff at least in a pile inside the car.

"Yes sir, Mr. Insurance Man, I installed this really baddass Walmart Spark-O-Matic stereo to replace that stock piece of garbage the first week I had my new ride. Where's that old stock stereo, you ask? Oh, I sold it a long time ago, I'll just leave that aftermarket one in there for you, it's waaay better anyways."

"Why is the stereo just laying in the dash opening you ask? Oh, it must have come loose when that telephone pole jumped out in front of me. I think that dash kit I used was one of those low-quality, junky ones made in China."

See how easy that was.
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Old 10-30-2021, 08:55 PM   #194
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Well new here, don’t have an 86, BUT I am the proud owner of a 2020 radio that’s in my 05 tundra. I see it’s been mentioned, but the radio DOES work with backup cameras right? I have an any time camera unit that may not want to play nice, but I know it working, yet no image on screen. The 2019 radio I had worked just dandy.


Some proof
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Old 10-31-2021, 02:30 PM   #195
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Well new here, don’t have an 86, BUT I am the proud owner of a 2020 radio that’s in my 05 tundra. I see it’s been mentioned, but the radio DOES work with backup cameras right? I have an any time camera unit that may not want to play nice, but I know it working, yet no image on screen. The 2019 radio I had worked just dandy.


Some proof
for toyota's, the camera and reverse wire is part of the larger connector with the smaller pins.

this was the harness i had to use for my '18 tacoma to break out the factory wiring. toyota's pretty consistent with using the same harnesses for as long as possible, i would expect the 2020 86 would use the same harness due to that
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

main thing is that you need to verify if you've got the right connector and pins on the truck-side.
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Old 10-31-2021, 04:40 PM   #196
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for toyota's, the camera and reverse wire is part of the larger connector with the smaller pins.

this was the harness i had to use for my '18 tacoma to break out the factory wiring. toyota's pretty consistent with using the same harnesses for as long as possible, i would expect the 2020 86 would use the same harness due to that
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

main thing is that you need to verify if you've got the right connector and pins on the truck-side.
I just ruled out the any time camera unit being the issue by directly wiring the camera to the 24pin connector. The 2019 unit I had had a functioning backup camera so I’m confused as to why this one decided not to work. Going to swap back to the old unit and see if it’s something else that’s gone wrong or if there’s some magic trick I need to do to make it work.


As of now I wired the whole radio up. I have speed signal, parking brake signal, reverse signal, wheel controls, etc all wires up. Including a microphone. No small feat on a truck that came with a cassette player and crank windows. Lol (those are power too now..)

Unless the reverse trigger wire changed position on these 2020 units from the 2019. But TIS shows identical wiring for both radios in each year.

Does anyone know how to get into the diagnostic menu for This radio? this could be used to see if its getting a reverse signal

Last edited by Empty_lord; 10-31-2021 at 05:11 PM.
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