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Old 10-12-2021, 06:18 AM   #1
blueskiesgreenlights
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2020 86 Stock Amp Specs & Stereo Upgrade

Hi,

I recently purchased a 2020 86 Hakone and love everything about the car with two exceptions. First, I'm disappointed with the sound system even after successfully completing FR-S2GT86's amp fix - thanks, by the way, for that outstanding DYI post.

Second, I'm the second owner and the previous owner installed a tolerably loud exhaust system. I assume that it adds a few horses and maybe even improves MPG but it is noisy enough for me to add a sound deadening project to my future tasks. I'm hoping an application of this stuff on the floorboard, doors, and rear wheel wells will allow me to hear the tweeters mentioned below.

This task will be added because I'm re-thinking the car's multimedia system. My immediate concern is the specs on the oem amp mounted in the trunk. Since I'm satisfied with the low end sounds of the door mounted subs I'm considering relocating them to replace the 3.5" speakers in the back seat. Of course, I'll have to cut the panels to accommodate the larger door speakers but as this will likely be my viking ship I'm not worried about resale value.

Since I don't know how the system will sound once it is completed I'm interested in the stock oem specs in the event I decide to replace the oem door speakers, use a spare wheel sub setup or some other space saving solution.

My theory is that the current setup lacks mid-range and the tweeters are weak. Therefore, I purchased a set of Sony XS 162es to address these issues. The Sony allows for a bi-amp setup and I'm inclined to go this route.

Since I'm satisfied with the HU I'm thinking about an Audio Control L7i or AC DQ-61 along with an after market amp. Any suggestions on this?

I know that the above subjects could easily be divided into several posts but in exchange for your tolerance I'll provide a follow up on this relatively low budget upgrade.
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Old 10-12-2021, 07:25 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
Hi,

I recently purchased a 2020 86 Hakone and love everything about the car with two exceptions. First, I'm disappointed with the sound system even after successfully completing FR-S2GT86's amp fix - thanks, by the way, for that outstanding DYI post.

Second, I'm the second owner and the previous owner installed a tolerably loud exhaust system. I assume that it adds a few horses and maybe even improves MPG but it is noisy enough for me to add a sound deadening project to my future tasks. I'm hoping an application of this stuff on the floorboard, doors, and rear wheel wells will allow me to hear the tweeters mentioned below.

This task will be added because I'm re-thinking the car's multimedia system. My immediate concern is the specs on the oem amp mounted in the trunk. Since I'm satisfied with the low end sounds of the door mounted subs I'm considering relocating them to replace the 3.5" speakers in the back seat. Of course, I'll have to cut the panels to accommodate the larger door speakers but as this will likely be my viking ship I'm not worried about resale value.

Since I don't know how the system will sound once it is completed I'm interested in the stock oem specs in the event I decide to replace the oem door speakers, use a spare wheel sub setup or some other space saving solution.

My theory is that the current setup lacks mid-range and the tweeters are weak. Therefore, I purchased a set of Sony XS 162es to address these issues. The Sony allows for a bi-amp setup and I'm inclined to go this route.

Since I'm satisfied with the HU I'm thinking about an Audio Control L7i or AC DQ-61 along with an after market amp. Any suggestions on this?

I know that the above subjects could easily be divided into several posts but in exchange for your tolerance I'll provide a follow up on this relatively low budget upgrade.

I added some information on the stock speakers in this thread here:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...?t=7843&page=5

Not sure if this was what you were looking for though.

And your welcome on the DIY. I spent quite a bit of time on that to get it just right as to require no further questions needing to be asked.

You say there is no midrange in your system, if I may ask: Are your dash midrange drivers in place and working?
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Old 10-12-2021, 08:19 PM   #3
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both of those audiocontrol units are well known, and will work. however, i would recommend another alternative.

minidsp is just as highly regarded as audiocontrol, and for a similar price, offers a dsp unit with significant adjustability that the audiocontrol modules don't have. personally, being able to adjust settings from the listening position instead of having to listen, run around, tweak, run back around, and re-listen, repeat, is worth the cost of entry alone. the phase adjustments also have proven to be useful in multi-driver setups as well.

https://www.minidsp.com/products/car...-dsp/c-dsp-6x8

personally, i use the dayton audio variation of dsp
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...-Audio-230-500

there's some questionability in audio circles of it not being 'as good' because it doesn't come from a lineage known for high end car-specific audio gear, and the brand leans towards the budget-oriented side of things instead of the 'no-holds-barred-gimme-your-kids-college-money' audio elitism that other brands pricing specifies for 'ultimate' sound quality.

but overall, it's a very powerful unit for $200-- getting the bluetooth dongle makes it extremely easy to tweak from any listening position, in any number of imaginable ways that one would or could ever need to adjust the system to their specific preferences.

before either option existed, i spent well into the $2-3k range on a fully custom car computer to do the same thing with 4 times the effort at every step, so a $200 device that does all of that, and more, is well worth it to me.
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Old 10-13-2021, 04:13 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86 View Post
I added some information on the stock speakers in this thread here:

https://www.ft86club.com/forums/show...?t=7843&page=5

Not sure if this was what you were looking for though.

And your welcome on the DIY. I spent quite a bit of time on that to get it just right as to require no further questions needing to be asked.

You say there is no midrange in your system, if I may ask: Are your dash midrange drivers in place and working?
Thanks for the info on the stock speakers in the thread. The dash midrange are in place but while they seem to perform on simple tracks (i.e., Joe Walsh's "Lifes Been Good' songs with multiple tracks don't fare as well).


There's not a lot of installers near me so this is a DIY job. Learning as fast as I can but in just the past 24 hrs I've ditched the plan to move the oem door woofers to the back. Presently, opting for an single after market amplifier that can drive a spare tire enclosed subwoofer.

Last edited by blueskiesgreenlights; 10-13-2021 at 04:26 AM.
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Old 10-13-2021, 04:25 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by soundman98 View Post
both of those audiocontrol units are well known, and will work. however, i would recommend another alternative.

minidsp is just as highly regarded as audiocontrol, and for a similar price, offers a dsp unit with significant adjustability that the audiocontrol modules don't have. personally, being able to adjust settings from the listening position instead of having to listen, run around, tweak, run back around, and re-listen, repeat, is worth the cost of entry alone. the phase adjustments also have proven to be useful in multi-driver setups as well.

https://www.minidsp.com/products/car...-dsp/c-dsp-6x8

personally, i use the dayton audio variation of dsp
https://www.parts-express.com/Dayton...-Audio-230-500

there's some questionability in audio circles of it not being 'as good' because it doesn't come from a lineage known for high end car-specific audio gear, and the brand leans towards the budget-oriented side of things instead of the 'no-holds-barred-gimme-your-kids-college-money' audio elitism that other brands pricing specifies for 'ultimate' sound quality.

but overall, it's a very powerful unit for $200-- getting the bluetooth dongle makes it extremely easy to tweak from any listening position, in any number of imaginable ways that one would or could ever need to adjust the system to their specific preferences.

before either option existed, i spent well into the $2-3k range on a fully custom car computer to do the same thing with 4 times the effort at every step, so a $200 device that does all of that, and more, is well worth it to me.
I'm not familiar with minidsp but I will definitely learn about the company and products. My main interest in audiocontrol is that they market a line specifically for factory HU. Thanks.

Last edited by blueskiesgreenlights; 10-13-2021 at 07:25 AM.
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Old 10-13-2021, 11:08 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
Thanks for the info on the stock speakers in the thread. The dash midrange are in place but while they seem to perform on simple tracks (i.e., Joe Walsh's "Lifes Been Good' songs with multiple tracks don't fare as well).


There's not a lot of installers near me so this is a DIY job. Learning as fast as I can but in just the past 24 hrs I've ditched the plan to move the oem door woofers to the back. Presently, opting for an single after market amplifier that can drive a spare tire enclosed subwoofer.

Your plans will probably change a couple of times before you make your final decision, certainly mine did, but I agree with @soundman98 in that having a DSP that you don't have to continually run back and forth to make adjustments is a much better solution. DSP is a godsend to car audio nowadays. All of the equipment in my current setup is aftermarket, including my Pioneer DEX-P99RS head unit which has four-way active network capabilities and built in DSP that automatically sets itself up compensating as best it can for the listening environment. It just needs a bit of manual adjustment afterwards.

For highs, just yesterday I installed some Kicker pod-mount 3/4" tweeters mounting them to the dash speaker grills and have them bandpassed between 5kHz to 16kHz at 24db/octave on both ends. See here,
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For mid-range, I have some Dayton Audio 3-1/2" drivers in the factory dash locations which are bandpassed between 2kHz and 5kHz at 24db/octave on both ends.

For mid-bass in the doors, I have some Dayton Audio 6-1/2" drivers bandpassed between 100Hz and 2kHz at 24db/octave on both ends.

My 12" first generation Orion, dual two-ohm voice coil HCCA subwoofer is mounted in a custom-built sealed enclosure handling the low frequencies bandpassed between 20 Hz and 100Hz at 24db/octave on both ends.

All of these components are amplified using Cerwin Vega Stealth Bomber amplifiers. The B54 four-channel amp is handling the tweeters and dash midrange drivers, the B52 two-channel amp is handling the door mid-bass drivers, and the B51 mono-block amplifier is handling the subwoofer.

I have left the rear speakers disconnected in this setup, as I really don't need them.

It sounds fantastic. I'm not going for SPL on this build, this is a sound quality build with Boom Mat in the inner and outer door skins for sound deadening.

Coming back to your situation, have you looked at Audio Control's amplifiers with their DSP built in? Here is their six-channel amplifier which may be of interest to you,

Name:  Screenshot_20211013-083717~2.jpg
Views: 216
Size:  178.8 KB

This will accept speaker-level inputs such as the ones from your head unit, which would substitute for the line output converter that you mentioned earlier, process the input, which would substitute for the digital EQ that you also mentioned earlier and give you much more control over the sound and would also add 125 watts per channel on six outputs, with a separate processed subwoofer line output. This would simplify your setup a great deal. You could amplify all of your front speakers and send the processed subwoofer signal to another amp for a subwoofer in the spare tire well, and you can set it all up with a laptop or phone app.
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Old 10-14-2021, 12:29 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by FR-S2GT86 View Post
Your plans will probably change a couple of times before you make your final decision, certainly mine did, but I agree with @soundman98 in that having a DSP that you don't have to continually run back and forth to make adjustments is a much better solution. DSP is a godsend to car audio nowadays. All of the equipment in my current setup is aftermarket, including my Pioneer DEX-P99RS head unit which has four-way active network capabilities and built in DSP that automatically sets itself up compensating as best it can for the listening environment. It just needs a bit of manual adjustment afterwards.

For highs, just yesterday I installed some Kicker pod-mount 3/4" tweeters mounting them to the dash speaker grills and have them bandpassed between 5kHz to 16kHz at 24db/octave on both ends. See here,
Attachment 206056

Attachment 206057

For mid-range, I have some Dayton Audio 3-1/2" drivers in the factory dash locations which are bandpassed between 2kHz and 5kHz at 24db/octave on both ends.

For mid-bass in the doors, I have some Dayton Audio 6-1/2" drivers bandpassed between 100Hz and 2kHz at 24db/octave on both ends.

My 12" first generation Orion, dual two-ohm voice coil HCCA subwoofer is mounted in a custom-built sealed enclosure handling the low frequencies bandpassed between 20 Hz and 100Hz at 24db/octave on both ends.

All of these components are amplified using Cerwin Vega Stealth Bomber amplifiers. The B54 four-channel amp is handling the tweeters and dash midrange drivers, the B52 two-channel amp is handling the door mid-bass drivers, and the B51 mono-block amplifier is handling the subwoofer.

I have left the rear speakers disconnected in this setup, as I really don't need them.

It sounds fantastic. I'm not going for SPL on this build, this is a sound quality build with Boom Mat in the inner and outer door skins for sound deadening.

Coming back to your situation, have you looked at Audio Control's amplifiers with their DSP built in? Here is their six-channel amplifier which may be of interest to you,

Attachment 206058

This will accept speaker-level inputs such as the ones from your head unit, which would substitute for the line output converter that you mentioned earlier, process the input, which would substitute for the digital EQ that you also mentioned earlier and give you much more control over the sound and would also add 125 watts per channel on six outputs, with a separate processed subwoofer line output. This would simplify your setup a great deal. You could amplify all of your front speakers and send the processed subwoofer signal to another amp for a subwoofer in the spare tire well, and you can set it all up with a laptop or phone app.
Thanks, FR-S2GT86, you're the best! Just placed an order for the D-6.1200. Normally, I'd spend days researching something like this but given the knowledge you've shown in so many posts and the fact that prices are spiking along with scarcities, I made an executive decision and pulled the trigger. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
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Old 10-14-2021, 03:44 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
Thanks, FR-S2GT86, you're the best! Just placed an order for the D-6.1200. Normally, I'd spend days researching something like this but given the knowledge you've shown in so many posts and the fact that prices are spiking along with scarcities, I made an executive decision and pulled the trigger. Any and all suggestions are greatly appreciated.

I certainly don't claim to know it all, that would make me......well......a know-it-all, but I know enough to have been able to do this professionally for a few years and have done all my own installs and some for family members and a few friends over the years. I've always enjoyed helping others make their sound systems sound even better.

There's a lot to learn in this industry for sure. I would recommend heading over to the Audio Frog website

https://www.audiofrog.com/crossover-...re-protection/

where Andy Wehmeyer has several tech tips and articles on all sorts of audio related subjects.

My main suggestion with your amplifier purchase is to read everything that Audio Control supplies you and don't be afraid to contact their tech support if you feel the need. They also have product training videos out on YouTube.

And we'll be around if you have any questions.
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Old 11-02-2021, 06:56 PM   #9
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2020 86 Stereo Upgrade - Plan B

Problems: Stereo wiring color code, Power wire installation, Budget sub amp for AudioControl D-6.1200 amp ("AC")

System Components: AC; Sony XS 162es ("162"); Basser Box ("BB") with Rockford Fosgate R2SD4-10 ("FSW").

Plan B Changes: 3.5" or 4" coaxial speakers for back seat; Power line install underneath center consol; Add sub amp instead of bridge connection to D-6.1200; Stock amp to be removed from system although I'd welcome any ideas to repurpose it as a sub amp.

Observations and Discoveries:

1. The tweeters of the Sony XS 162es fit, with minor modification, in the dash (factory) woofer
mounting bracket. I plan to provide photos to ft86club forum members when Upgrade is completed.
2. The back seat mounting bracket can, with minor modification, accommodate 4" speakers (factory 3.5").
3. Service (or Shop) Manual and Wiring Diagram Information available via subscription only - $500/year.
4. While those experienced in electronics likely know this, others should be advised that this product https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...ZMM9KXDS&psc=1 is necessary to connect speaker wires to the AC.
5. My Hakone is louder than most. The original owner installed a performance muffler system which aggravates the car's noise level. The Toyota dealer says that the only way to correct this is to purchase a factory muffler system. I plan to get a second opinion. Any takers?

Anyway, regarding the noise level, since the Upgrade involves removal of the rear wheel well panels I plan to employ some Amazon Basics Auto Sound Deadening material over the wheel wells. This area appears to me to be a significant source of the road noise.

Per FR-S2GT86's suggestion, I purchased the AudioControl D-6.1200 amp. Also, alphasaur's video on the Basser Box encouraged me to acquire a Rockford Fosgate 10" subwoofer to go in the Basser Box. Thank you for these great tips!

As I plan the installation of a 7 speaker system (4 component speakers, 2 coaxial speakers, 1 subwoofer) to replace the factory 8 speaker system the first problem I've encountered has been getting information that I previously obtained from the Service Manual. Specifically, while I've viewed enough YouTube videos to feel fairly confident about how to remove the interior door panels the best information I've gotten so far on the 2020 86 audio system is that previous models wiring system are color coded as follows:

Wire colors:
Red = Battery + (always on) [PIN 1]
Black = Ground [PIN 2]

White = LF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [PIN 1 and 5]
Grey = RF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [ PIN 2 and 6]
Blue = remote turn on [PIN 8]
Green = Left speaker signal input from HU [PIN 3 and 9]
Purple = Right Speaker signal in from HU [PIN 4 and 10]

My objective is to learn of the color codes so that I can connect the Scosche TAO2B wires to the AC in such a way that allows me to control the speakers exactly like the current HU (factory) setup. Any ideas?

Second, I would like to route the 4 awg power wire down the center console (underneath the carpet). My current plan is to see if the carpet is lose enough to fish a coat hanger gauge wire from the trunk area (where the AC is located) to the dash underneath the carpet. Once the wire is available under the dash to secure the power wire and pull it to the AC. Has anyone had any experience doing this? If so, any tips or suggestions?

Third, while I was considering connecting the FSW to the AC in bridge mode I've since decided to purchase a 4 ohm sub amp for this connection. AudioControl offers the LC-1.800 for about $450. I checked out FR-S2GT86's suggestion of the Cerwin Vega B51. As I'm not really into heavy base, the AMZN price of $216 is still more than I'd like to pay at this point. As I am considerably overbudget on this project, any suggests for a more budget friendly sub amp that would work with AC?

Finally, I have to make a decision about the rear seat speakers. My inclination is to install a premium coaxial like Polk's DB401 but they are not available. Alternatively, if it's not too difficult to remove the back seat panels, I might just run wires to these locations, bridge the sub, and see how this sounds.

Last edited by blueskiesgreenlights; 11-03-2021 at 09:50 PM. Reason: too many spaces under heading
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Old 11-02-2021, 10:37 PM   #10
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@blueskiesgreenlights, you've got quite a lot to read in that post and respond to up there.

We'll simplify things and start slowly:

Choose two of your most important questions and I'll answer and elaborate if necessary on those, then we'll go from there.
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Old 11-02-2021, 11:06 PM   #11
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5. My Hakone is louder than most. The original owner installed a performance muffler system which aggravates the car's noise level. The Toyota dealer says that the only way to correct this is to purchase a factory muffler system. I plan to get a second opinion. Any takers?
could always watch for a used muffler to become available. but plan to replace the bolts and donut gasket.

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Wire colors:
Red = Battery + (always on) [PIN 1]
Black = Ground [PIN 2]

White = LF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [PIN 1 and 5]
Grey = RF Speaker amplified out (black line means -) [ PIN 2 and 6]
Blue = remote turn on [PIN 8]
Green = Left speaker signal input from HU [PIN 3 and 9]
Purple = Right Speaker signal in from HU [PIN 4 and 10]

My objective is to learn of the color codes so that I can connect the Scosche TAO2B wires to the AC in such a way that allows me to control the speakers exactly like the current HU (factory) setup. Any ideas?
i can't remember which wiring harness brand does what, but 1 lists the wiring function and color code on the package, and one labels the function onto the wires themselves.

but all of the aftermarket harness companies all sell stuff using the same color code--which will differ from the factory wiring color code. but as long as you're using the add-on harness(and one should always use one!), all that really matters is the label/color of the aftermarket harness.

toyota especially, hasn't really changed their audio connectors since about 1985. so they're well documented, and well sorted in the aftermarket harnesses.

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Second, I would like to route the 4 awg power wire down the center console (underneath the carpet). My current plan is to see if the carpet is lose enough to fish a coat hanger gauge wire from the trunk area (where the AC is located) to the dash underneath the carpet. Once the wire is available under the dash to secure the power wire and pull it to the AC. Has anyone had any experience doing this? If so, any tips or suggestions?
it should actually be easier to route it down and under the passenger-side plastic door sill covers. then take out the bolts and remove the back seat bottom cushion, and using the coat hanger method, fish it up and through the underside of the side-panel plastic trim, into the trunk area.


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Third, while I was considering connecting the FSW to the AC in bridge mode I've since decided to purchase a 4 ohm sub amp for this connection. AudioControl offers the LC-1.800 for about $450. I checked out FR-S2GT86's suggestion of the Cerwin Vega B51. As I'm not really into heavy base, the AMZN price of $216 is still more than I'd like to pay at this point. As I am considerably overbudget on this project, any suggests for a more budget friendly sub amp that would work with AC?
considering that you already have the LC D-6.1200, i would recommend continuing on the path you're currently on-- using the the sub output for the sub. but some clarification is needed-- are you planning to bi-amp the sony drivers, or just run them off the front amp channel, with the passive crossovers doing the heavy lifting?

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Finally, I have to make a decision about the rear seat speakers. My inclination is to install a premium coaxial like Polk's DB401 but they are not available. Alternatively, if it's not too difficult to remove the back seat panels, I might just run wires to these locations, bridge the sub, and see how this sounds.
those panels are a pain to remove. i would suggest coiling up the wire under the rear seat bottoms, as they'll need to be removed to pull the side panels anyways if you decide they're needed later.
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Old 11-03-2021, 09:48 PM   #12
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Yes, I'm a bit overwhelmed by all I have to learn. Although I had hoped to get this done right a way I'm finding that, like anything else, there is a learning curve and this one might take a little time.


My immediate concern is to find a set of 3.5" or 4" coaxial speakers for the back seat as well as a sub amp for about $100 each. I don't have an enclosed garage so I might end up spending the winter making my way along the learning curve. I'd much prefer to get it done quickly and well. We'll see.


It occurred to me that the center console might provide an easy "tunnel" to the front dash. So I'll mark this problem as solved until proven otherwise.


AudioControl checked in by pointing out that the HU keys off the factory amp so the white/grey wires should be prioritized over the green/purple wires. According to AudioControl support, failure to use the white/grey wires could result in the HU volume control not working. See below reply to soundman98 for full details.


I plan to search the web tonight for a set of 4" coaxials that will neither break the bank nor the outstanding sound I expect from the Sony es speakers. I'll do the same for a sub amp so I'll mark this as question one.


1. Is it possible to buy a sub amp for about $100 that would work well with an AudioControl D-6.1200 amp and, if so, what is it?


2. Is it possible to retain the surround sound offered by the factory stereo by installing either 3.5" or 4" coaxials that will uphold the high standard set by the Sony XS 162es component speakers?

Last edited by blueskiesgreenlights; 11-03-2021 at 10:27 PM.
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Old 11-03-2021, 10:19 PM   #13
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Many thanks, soundman98!


I'll try to find out who switched out the muffler in the first place and suggest that they offer my performance muffler to a prospective customer.


You're right. Scosche lists the audio wire color code that conforms to the E.I A. standard. I had to dig up the Scosche bag from FR-S2GT86's recent DIY project and I can confirm that Scosche provides this info on the back side of the packaging bag. Hopefully, I would have discovered this once the part is delivered in a couple of days but it eases my mind to have it.


I had originally planned to route it under the passenger side door sill covers but my understanding is that a power line located next to a speaker wire will cause sound issues. If I can't easily route the power line under the center console, would it be OK to, say, route the power line along the passenger side floor and separate the two by running the speaker wire a few inches higher?


I was considering using a passive crossover in lieu of the bi-amp crossover that Sony provides but I couldn't get the FS value of the tweeters from Sony that would allow me to calculate and acquire the correct sized capacitor for the tweeters. Also, as this is pushing the edge of my confidence I decided to bi-amp the Sony components.


If those panels are indeed a pain to remove this supports my preference of getting this project done once and for all.
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Old 11-04-2021, 01:13 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
My immediate concern is to find a set of 3.5" or 4" coaxial speakers for the back seat as well as a sub amp for about $100 each. I don't have an enclosed garage so I might end up spending the winter making my way along the learning curve. I'd much prefer to get it done quickly and well. We'll see.
firstly, i would recommend considering shifting the install to the springtime with the in-between time used to better understand the materials and components you'll be using.

my installs, i generally tend to take at least 2 relaxed days to install everything. first day is gutting the interior and major wiring with some component install. 2nd day is finalizing component installs, and then testing.

but then my last install in my 'temporary' ranger took me about 2 weeks. but i was having fun with wire routing.



you might be able to find some used speakers for $100. but the amp, used would be your only possible, but unlikely option, and currently, there aren't any quality options in that price point on ebay. fyi-- you're going to want at least a 300w rms amp for sub duties. also critical, adding an amp will require increasing your power wiring size, as well as adding a power splitter, generally recommended to be a fused splitter. you'll also need double the grounding stuff as well. 2 amps make for 2 times the complexity.

it serves as a reminder here that any used equipment will inherently have an unknown history, lifespan, or quality, no matter the brand or it's implied quality. i don't like using used amps or speakers unless they're nearly free--or at least cheap enough that if it blows a week after setup, i won't cry over it. it's less of a building block of a 'i want this done in one go' type setup, and more a 'tinkerers paradise' type setup. my first setup, i had 4 different amps like that early on. i never paid more than $40 for any of them. but they were questionable quality at best. most car audio shops wouldn't even bother using them as door stops...



speakers are speakers are speakers. the emphasis on any specific coaxial being 'better' than another is really going to boil down to individual preference. the alpine type s, infinity kappa, or polk es, just to name a few, are all really built to the same quality, using similar components, with only slightly different acoustic signatures flavored to each brands specific identity, but are all largely the same. none of them 'flavor' their sound similar to what sony does, so there's going to be some difference no matter what.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
It occurred to me that the center console might provide an easy "tunnel" to the front dash. So I'll mark this problem as solved until proven otherwise.
i have used this method in the past--back for my carpc build, when i had more wires than space. biggest hurdles are re-installation of the center console and rear seats, and keeping the carpet flat. it required cutting notches in the bottom of the center console, and using double-sided tape to hold the cables flat enough to correct the carpet bumps. but then, to do this, i removed the entire interior, so i could route wires underneath the carpet easier.

my current install with the amp under the passenger seat does in fact use the center console to route my custom rca interconnects down to just behind the front edge of the seat. because it falls within the seat/console area, notching the plastic and the carpet bulge is invisible.




Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
AudioControl checked in by pointing out that the HU keys off the factory amp so the white/grey wires should be prioritized over the green/purple wires. According to AudioControl support, failure to use the white/grey wires could result in the HU volume control not working. See below reply to soundman98 for full details.
i really don't understand this.. unless they're implying to use the white/gray for the turn-on signal as part of an auto-on setup? which is entirely unnecessary, as the blue amp turn-on wire is available in the factory harness, so auto-on is not needed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
I had originally planned to route it under the passenger side door sill covers but my understanding is that a power line located next to a speaker wire will cause sound issues. If I can't easily route the power line under the center console, would it be OK to, say, route the power line along the passenger side floor and separate the two by running the speaker wire a few inches higher?
yes, running parallel wires next to each other for long distances creates the opportunity for cross-talk. but this is true for any wiring, even multiple speaker cables. the reality is that there's only so much space available in the vehicle.

i would suggest routing the power cable through the door sill, and run the speaker wires through the center area. speaker cables are smaller, and will be easier to conceal.


Quote:
Originally Posted by blueskiesgreenlights View Post
I was considering using a passive crossover in lieu of the bi-amp crossover that Sony provides but I couldn't get the FS value of the tweeters from Sony that would allow me to calculate and acquire the correct sized capacitor for the tweeters. Also, as this is pushing the edge of my confidence I decided to bi-amp the Sony components.
fyi-- a capacitor-only crossover is only a 6db/octave crossover. any quality external crossover like those sony units are going to be at least 12db/oct., which is a capacitor and a coil. i wouldn't recommend running silk dome tweeters with anything less than a 12db/oct slope.
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