Irace86.2.0's KPower Turbo K24 Swap

[captain awesome]

In my BMW days we used to force the fluid through the slave with a small oil can lever style thingy. Fill oil can with fluid and do a couple squirts to remove trapped air. Then push fluid through the slave with a few squeezes. Usually this does the trick.


If it's a real pain just add in what RedReplicant suggests to the mix.




Also pretty sweet your driveshaft guy was able to use your front yoke. Mine was notchy in the bearings so it didn't make sense to reuse what was there already.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

That sounds like a pain.

If you want to try bleeding again my suggestion is to take the slave off the transmission, loosen up the bleeder so you can easily open/close it, depress the slave by hand, open the bleeder, close the bleeder, let the slave extend again, and repeat. Easier than doing the two person bleed thing.

That'll also let you see how much play the fork has.

I have Speed Bleeders on my brakes. I bought one for the slave: SB7100S. I did try taking the slave off, but I didn’t try to extend it and put it back on. That is a good idea because then I can see what the max travel is of the piston.

I was considering getting a vacuum bleeder too like Captain said.

The odd thing is I had extended the rod of the slave, and I don’t know if that introduced or can introduce air like if it extends too far, but there really shouldn’t have needed any adjustment or minor adjustment with the clutch change. Maybe some adjustment with the clutch pedal, but not this.

[Irace86.2.0]

I spoke to Levi at DW. Nice and knowledgeable guy. They are shipping out the replacement fuel socks. He also said it would be best not to wire both fuel pumps going all the time. He said I could use a DPO on the Haltech to control when the second pump kicks on, or I could use a Hobs switch or a WOT switch.

They sell a wiring kit for running directly off the battery. I don’t know if I have a free DPO available on the ECU. I think I used the last one or only one for the boost controller.

[Irace86.2.0]

I decided to just run one pump off the stock engine harness, and I will use a DW HD wiring harness with relay to run the second pump with a Stewart Warner SW76575 4psi open pressure switch, which is a Hobbs switch that will trigger the second pump once the car hits at least 4 psi. This has a 1/8 NPT fitting, so I think I'll just remove one of the four fittings from the manifold and share a boost source like probably for the FPR and FPD or something.

[Irace86.2.0]

Just waiting on some last minute parts to come in. I should be able to install the fuel basket tomorrow if the filter socks come in soon enough, and then I can start working on the fuel lines. The Speed Bleeder comes in on Saturday, so I probably won’t have the car ready to be fired up until Monday at the soonest. I can try bench bleeding the clutch, but the bleeder is on the way, so I’ll wait. After that, It’ll be a matter of just reinstalling the intake manifold, hooking up the lines and firing up the car. I’ll need to break in the clutch before the dyno session in a few weeks.

Here is the rebuilt exhaust. Should be free of rubbing, and it goes on so much easier. I can attach the front pipe to the downpipe without having to attach it at the same time to the wastegate. Doing it in stages is far easier, and the pieces just fit together perfectly this time without any tension. The other benefit is the pipes aren’t hanging low, so they won’t rub on speed bumps like they have been. This is the progression to add the flex pipe to the dump tube and then to add clearance and a v-band. I didn’t have to touch the downpipe this time.

[Irace86.2.0]

I installed the exhaust and wastegate, which was such a breeze. I’m so happy with the OEM/aftermarket-like fitment, and the exhaust is so tucked up, but while the clearances are much better than before for rubbing, I have some Eibach sway bars coming in, and it might be a tight fit.

On fitment of the Kpower kit, the oil pan has maybe 1-2mm of clearance on the subframe near the corner next to the oil drain. It was rubbing for sure, but I don’t know if it shifted around while working on the car or if it settled in this position over time or if it always rubbed. It now has a few millimeters. The other spot was near the passenger side area near the subframe or maybe it was near the steering rack. This doesn’t rub statically, and I can’t tell if it rubs because it is too tight there to see, but if I ever have the engine out then I’ll notch the pan and subframe.

I got the correct size fuel socks. Fit perfectly. Other ones were probably twice the size and almost 50% larger in the radius. Odd that I got the wrong size. I put everything together and removed the old unit. After installing everything, I realized there is no gap in the rear section between the fuel tank and chassis to pass hoses, but also, there is no way the access port cover could be installed with the standard fittings. Banjo fittings or some low profile 90 degree fitting is a must, so I have some on order. The other parts don’t arrive until Saturday anyways, so I’ll have to wait until Monday after working this weekend to finish her up.

[traffic335]

Such an epic thread. Following as I will be using the same setup, following your sage advice. When you have the lengths worked out on the return and feed, I will get a head start on mine.

[Irace86.2.0]

Also, here is the intake manifold once more. I put an extension and tee fitting, so I could fit the pressure switch. Everything clears fine. From left to right: brake booster, BOV, pressure switch, FPR, FPD, boost sensor.

[B T]

How much clearance do you need? I found this :an-90-degree-low-profile-6an-male-to-6an-male-orb-adapter

[RedReplicant]

I like your flex fuel mount there, where does the other side bolt to?

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by B T

How much clearance do you need? I found this :an-90-degree-low-profile-6an-male-to-6an-male-orb-adapter

Those are what I ordered. Hopefully that works because I don’t know if banjo fittings have the clearance or flow as well. We will see.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by RedReplicant

I like your flex fuel mount there, where does the other side bolt to?

It is just those two bolts, and the other side attaches to a 16g steel plate.

[Irace86.2.0]

I got the Speed Bleeder in early. While I didn’t need a second person to bleed the system, the wife helped out, but nothing we did seemed to fully purge the system. I tried removing the slave and pushing on the pin. There was just too much trapped air in the system, so my wife went back inside while I troubleshooted the problem myself. I eventually removed the master cylinder from the firewall, so I could try manipulating the system to get the air out by rotating the assembly and to fully depress the plunger to get all the air out of the system. That seemed to work. I can see the clutch fork moving. The clutch pedal feels like it is depressing too. I’ll have to wait until the car runs to adjust the pedal and know everything is 100%. At least bow I can move on to reassembly.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by B T

How much clearance do you need? I found this :an-90-degree-low-profile-6an-male-to-6an-male-orb-adapter

I had ordered those before you posted, so don't feel bad when I say they don't work. I thought they swiveled, but they don't. They require rotating them to screw them in, and then the nut can be used to lock them down at whatever angle someone needs. Unfortunately, this means that they require clearance to rotate them, and there is no clearance for that.

I had a Radium banjo bolt from the FPR that I tried, and it worked perfectly, but now I need more. I ordered an 8AN and another 6AN fitting because I'll need that for the FPR. I was thinking of moving the 6AN orb to 6AN fitting to the FPR, and then I could run a 90 or the 45 fitting I have, but I think I'll need the low profile clearance.

I also bought a few extra hose ends that I realized would be better: 8AN 90 and a straight.