Irace86.2.0's KPower Turbo K24 Swap

[brzlegend]

Fuel pressure changes injector flow, reaction time and close time.

1psi boost = base fuel pressure minus 1 and so on.
Your injectors in theory get smaller as boost goes up in a returnless system.
Retunless systems keeps fuel tank temperature down for emissions
Return systems can be boost referenced to increase pressure with boost.
.

Oem Regulator is in the tank(basket) it returns thru the jet pump, and a small tube aimed where the flapper door goes to help hold fuel in the basket and a small pressure relief for excess pressure.

Extra and was for clarification.

[Irace86.2.0]

I am getting the fuel pressure sensor coming in next week, and I also bought a Vibrant fuel pulse damper, which should also come in next week. The fuel rail has -8AN ORB ports, so the fixed fuel damper will just screw into the front of the rail. Hopefully it will clear. I read that the stock rails have dampers, and it is advisable to use one with large injectors. Apparently these pulsations can't be tuned out, so a damper is the best way. Maybe this will make a difference in how smooth the engine idles.

I got the XR which is 40-105 psi. It works with a higher static fuel pressure than the 40-70 psi one, and both work with a 1:1 FPR, but with a static pressure under 105 psi, the XR is fine without the vacuum port on the stock FPR.



I'm just doing 5-7 psi to 6k rpms for now until we dyno tune the car, but a turbo on a K24 at 6k is pretty similar to the Harrop SC at redline at 11.5 psi. Obviously the turbo isn't parasitic like the SC, and the extra displacement makes a decent difference. There is NA power then the turbo builds then VTEC kicks in and then a second turbo surge. It is pretty fun. The turbo is immediate at higher rpms. We will obvious be playing with VTEC and boost on the dyno. I am going to do 5 psi in 1st, 7-10psi in second, and 10-15psi or whatever works out in 3rd-6th. The goal is only 400whp for now.

[captain awesome]

Do you think the need for fuel regulation is more of an issue to address since you are boosted? Not sure I really want to remove my oil temp sensor if I can avoid it.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

Do you think the need for fuel regulation is more of an issue to address since you are boosted? Not sure I really want to remove my oil temp sensor if I can avoid it.

I don’t think it is necessary, but it is better. A tuner can tune around fuel pressure changes if they are predictable. The fuel pulse damper is probably only a large injector thing, but I’m curious if it’ll make a difference with any injectors because OEMs include them. I’ll let you guys know how it goes.

[Irace86.2.0]

Today I installed the fuel pulse damper, and I would say it made a big difference for me. Empirically, the rapid oscillations seen on the fuel gauge are gone; it is rock steady now. Videos below show the difference, and I think it is worth reminding everyone that the gauge needle is submerged in oil/silicone, so the needle movement wasn't from engine vibration. Sorry for the orientation change. The car seemed to idle smoother, and it was holding an idle around 1000-1100 rpms versus warming up to a 850-1000 rpms. A whole lot of the cabin noise from my previous video is gone. It felt better driving around in stop and go traffic in terms of responsiveness. Overall, it is money well spent. I don't know if it will be significant for everyone, as I am running ID1050 injectors, but for me, I would say it was a big difference. The hose from the nipple isn't connected; it is just running down through the manifold per the instructions.

I really think that the Fluidampr crank damper will take care of the remaining vibration that is unexpected and annoying. I don't really have any significant vibration from the driveshaft or other components that is much worse than my previous setup. I have a little drone and a slightly louder exhaust, but nothing annoying, obnoxious or that draws any attention to the car. I don't really feel 3-4k driveshaft vibrations, and if I do, they aren't enough to be annoying or to significantly feel through the chassis. Really, I just need to smooth out the engine, and I think that will happen with the damper and on the dyno.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1H5N...ew?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ste...ew?usp=sharing

[captain awesome]

I may look into that fuel damper as well. Can't hurt to add it in since they did come with one on the stock fuel rail.

[Irace86.2.0]

I installed the Fluidampr damper. The process was easy, and since I had an adjustable, K-Tuned EP3 pulley, I was able to tighten the belt, as the Fluidampr damper is slightly smaller than the stock damper.

I would say there was mild improvement to the idle vibration, and there was moderate improvement to driving. It wasn't night and day, but the car does feel smoother through transitions. I am happy with the purchase, but for those on the fence who might feel like their budget can only justify critical needs then I would say the damper might not be worth the money. The fuel pulse damper would be the better value of the two, but if you can manage it then you will be happy with the damper.

The remaining noises and vibrations that are most noticeable are from the exhaust and transmission. I drove past some objects that reflected the noise back up into the cabin, and it is apparent that there is noise from the clutch assembly. It doesn't seem to be a different sound than from my previous setup. It just seems louder. I realized that the transmission bell housing is a giant microphone, and the transmission doesn't have a dust shield or full union with the transmission, so I think the stand clutch noises that were muffled previously are now getting out. The other noise is just resonances in the exhaust/cat system that I don't plan to alter.

Maybe I am lucky, but I really don't get any driveshaft vibration at specific speeds at all.

[captain awesome]

I don’t have the adjustable pulley so hopefully I don’t have issues with belt length.

[toast]

That just sounds so much better with the fuel damper in place...

[Irace86.2.0]

I installed the fuel pressure sensor and replaced the B10 (oil temp) pin with the new pin. The sensor splices into the A9 5v supply and one of the B14-16 ground pins. Just had to remove the old sensor and activate the new sensor, assign the B10 signal and load the calibration file. White is signal, red is power and black is ground. I will be doing another session with Shawn later this week to dial everything in, hopefully before we set up a dyno day.

I also noticed the car was above 1/4 tank like 3/8ths, but when I went to start it today it was around 1/8th, so I don't know if I got the same issue that others got with the fuel gauge not working accurately.

[Irace86.2.0]

I am thinking about redoing my exhaust. I'm not happy with the note or the smell. There is enough of a drone and rasp and funk that I want to modify it. The dump tube enters at almost 90 degrees, so that is less than ideal for good flow, and it might create some hum with exhaust flow going past the hole like blowing over the lip of a bottle. I don't know if it does, and I don't know if I will have room to get a pipe around the downpipe, so I can tap into the downpipe lower and at a smooth angle. I'm going to check it out.

I think I am going to get a stock frontpipe, if I can figure out if it clears the trans and driveshaft. The Harrop kit with the Ace header and stock frontpipe with my Greddy catback was perfect in tone, no drone and ideal when I opened up the throttle in aggressiveness and volume. The K24 and turbo will produce a completely different note, but the stock frontpipe will have a 3-way, larger cat versus the smaller, Berk, high-flow, 2-way cat, and it will have the mini-muffler, so I think it will make a decent difference, and of course, it should help with the smell. I thought the high flow cat would heat up enough to take care of the smell, but even after it has been a long time, there is still bad smell that I can smell through the heater or windows. I may have had a little smell after installing the Ace Header, but it wasn't this bad, and it was non-existent when the frontpipe got warm, and what's more, my clothes didn't smell like they do now.

Also, I have a few weeks until we are scheduled to do my dyno session, so hopefully I can finish the exhaust before then if I decide to redo it just so it is set for the dyno.

I also plan to finally fill my AC system too. I have a week off of school. I plan to rent the tools to get the job done.

[brzlegend]

Sounds like you have an exhaust leak. Ultra grey works pretty well on flanges. It turns to ultra white after it burns but it seems to help seal flanges and v bands.

Vbands warp quite often while welding if not properly fitted and not clamped down, I usually assemble them before welding. Also the vbands with the step seal better even if slightly warped.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by brzlegend

Sounds like you have an exhaust leak. Ultra grey works pretty well on flanges. It turns to ultra white after it burns but it seems to help seal flanges and v bands.

Vbands warp quite often while welding if not properly fitted and not clamped down, I usually assemble them before welding. Also the vbands with the step seal better even if slightly warped.

Why do you think I have a leak? The smell? My wideband isn’t showing any abnormalities like a lean condition. I don’t feel a leak. Are Berk high flow cats three way cats? Either way, I’m going back to the stock cat.

[RedReplicant]

Just be warned that the K is really sensitive to high cell count cats; HFC is really close to no cat, but oem to hfc is a pretty decent chunk of power.

Also, look at your corrections table in Haltech.