Seized Rear Lower Shock Mount - Tips?

[JBezugs]

Hey everyone,

Just picked up a set of used Tein Flex Z coilovers for a song locally. They're in great shape, save for the rears where the lower shock mounts to adjust ride height seem to be seized.

I was able to get the jam nut loose on one of them, but when i attempt to spin the lower mount, the preload nut and preload lock nut move instead, adjusting my preload in and out but not being able to actually lengthen the shock body.

The fronts spun freely and I've been able to adjust them to the factory settings without issue.

Anyone have any tips to get them unseized? I know heat isn't an option because of the gas dampers. I'm soaking them in PB Blaster currently.

[asdf]

One way to get more leverage is install them onto the car so that they’re mounted to the lca and top, then the coil over will be held in place. You can then use the lock wrench + a breaker bar or cheater bar/pipe on the lower lock ring to loosen it. From there, with the preload rings locked together, use the upper or lower ring (depending on the direction you want to turn) to turn the damper body loose from the lower cup.

Or a vice to hold it could work too

[JBezugs]

Originally Posted by asdf

One way to get more leverage is install them onto the car so that they’re mounted to the lca and top, then the coil over will be held in place. You can then use the lock wrench + a breaker bar or cheater bar/pipe on the lower lock ring to loosen it. From there, with the preload rings locked together, use the upper or lower ring (depending on the direction you want to turn) to turn the damper body loose from the lower cup.

Or a vice to hold it could work too

My car is currently stored for the winter so I won’t be able to get them on till the spring.

I’ll keep soaking them in PB for a day or two then I’ll put the lower mount on the vice to see if I can break the lock ring on one loose with the breaker bar.

[JBezugs]

Update: One has been freed!



I gave the jam nut a few good soaks with PB Blaster over a few hour period and then using the supplied wrench, literally kneeled down onto the wrench latched onto the lower jam nut with my whole body weight while sliding a long, thin bolt through the bottom of the shock body to keep it from rotating as I put force into the jam nut. It was enough to break both the jam nut free as well as the lower shock body.

Happy days! The other one is putting up a bit more of a fight as the lower jam nut is already loose on it.

[JBezugs]

Got the last one free! Figured if I use the preload jam nuts with the wrench pulling one way (to keep the damper from spinning) and the long bar through the lower mount tensioned up pulling in the opposite direction, that it could work - and it did!

Because I now have all the coils moving properly, I took the time to clean the threads and thoroughly lubricate with silicone grease.





Put them back together, set the preload to 2mm (approx 1 1/3 turns from 0 preload) and set up my ride height based on the reference values in the manual, stock height of the car, and my target lowering. Based on my math, I should have a 1.2” drop all around.









I can dial them in further once they’re on the car in the spring.

To everyone with coilovers: grease em up. If you want to adjust them later, or if you sell them, it’ll save yourself/future owner a headache and a sore back. Ask me how I know