follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Speed By Design
Register Garage Community Calendar Today's Posts Search

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Forced Induction

Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 03-23-2016, 11:10 PM   #1
apelpapa
Member
 
apelpapa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: 2013 SPD Black FR-S
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 76
Thanks: 7
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
PCV Valve Replacement with STI Valve

I just installed the SPD kit on my car and I picked up a STI PCV Valve since a lot of people were recommending replacing it since the stock one is plastic. However where I would assume the PCV Valve is installed is right behind the intake manifold where the passenger side hose is going to from the intake manifold, right? Mine is metal (maybe the inside piece is plastic?)
So my question is am I looking at the right thing to replace? If so did you just use a socket with an angler to replace it, because it is kind of a pain where it sits right now?
I'm sorry if this isn't in the right section. I figured it would be with forced induction.
I've tried to google it but all I come up with is replacing the small plastic elbow, but that was hollow and replace with a straight metal tube during installation.
apelpapa is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to apelpapa For This Useful Post:
TruRace (07-03-2017)
Old 03-23-2016, 11:13 PM   #2
GsxrMe
Senior Member
 
GsxrMe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Drives: Late 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 557
Thanks: 20
Thanked 183 Times in 139 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Delete it and install a catchcan.
__________________
2014 Subaru BRZ
FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe
GsxrMe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2016, 11:14 PM   #3
apelpapa
Member
 
apelpapa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: 2013 SPD Black FR-S
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 76
Thanks: 7
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxrMe View Post
Delete it and install a catchcan.
I'm planing on installing a catch can in the summer, just holding off a little to recoup a little bit of funds
apelpapa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2016, 08:31 PM   #4
GsxrMe
Senior Member
 
GsxrMe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Drives: Late 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 557
Thanks: 20
Thanked 183 Times in 139 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
I know how you feel but catch can and oilcooler is a must. The engine will take a beating even if it's a 7psi basemap tune with DD car.

I had oil leaks from anywhere the damn pressure could get out during WOT. Pcv delete, catchcan fixed it real fast.
__________________
2014 Subaru BRZ
FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe
GsxrMe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2016, 08:36 PM   #5
Bykov
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 2014 Monogram FR-S Whiteout
Location: JBLM, Washington State
Posts: 101
Thanks: 157
Thanked 69 Times in 48 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
The JRSC instruction manual has instructions for installing it. That would be a good place to start. It has specific placement. I would go into why placement is important but I don't feel like looking through the KWSC thread for where it's mentioned. Hope that helps.
Bykov is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2016, 11:01 PM   #6
apelpapa
Member
 
apelpapa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: 2013 SPD Black FR-S
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 76
Thanks: 7
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bykov View Post
The JRSC instruction manual has instructions for installing it. That would be a good place to start. It has specific placement. I would go into why placement is important but I don't feel like looking through the KWSC thread for where it's mentioned. Hope that helps.
Thanks for that, they installed a one way check one the hose I was thinking about, so I'll just swap the valve at the end of it. Thank you!
apelpapa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2016, 11:03 PM   #7
apelpapa
Member
 
apelpapa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: 2013 SPD Black FR-S
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 76
Thanks: 7
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by GsxrMe View Post
I know how you feel but catch can and oilcooler is a must. The engine will take a beating even if it's a 7psi basemap tune with DD car.

I had oil leaks from anywhere the damn pressure could get out during WOT. Pcv delete, catchcan fixed it real fast.
Ya, I'll probably order the dual radiums next week and just install the valve in the middle of the line temporarily until they come in
apelpapa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 12:04 AM   #8
The Racers Line
 
The Racers Line's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Drives: FRS, Supra, Colorado D, GLC63
Location: Concord, CA
Posts: 1,025
Thanks: 752
Thanked 1,515 Times in 532 Posts
Mentioned: 111 Post(s)
Tagged: 3 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by apelpapa View Post
I just installed the SPD kit on my car and I picked up a STI PCV Valve since a lot of people were recommending replacing it since the stock one is plastic. However where I would assume the PCV Valve is installed is right behind the intake manifold where the passenger side hose is going to from the intake manifold, right? Mine is metal (maybe the inside piece is plastic?)
So my question is am I looking at the right thing to replace? If so did you just use a socket with an angler to replace it, because it is kind of a pain where it sits right now?
I'm sorry if this isn't in the right section. I figured it would be with forced induction.
I've tried to google it but all I come up with is replacing the small plastic elbow, but that was hollow and replace with a straight metal tube during installation.
You don't replace the stock one because it is plastic, you replace it because it was never meant to see boost, so it opens up(under even 1psi from my testing) and lets boost into the crank case (bad)

A 19mm deep socket and a medium extension will get the old one out (it will be tight, but comes out) Screw the new STI one in by hand and then tighten down with the socket/ratchet.
The Racers Line is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to The Racers Line For This Useful Post:
apelpapa (03-25-2016)
Old 03-25-2016, 03:15 AM   #9
zkv476
Senior Member
 
zkv476's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2014
Drives: 2014 SWP BRZ, MT
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 240
Thanks: 11
Thanked 140 Times in 90 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Yea idk who said the stock PCV is plastic; it is very much metal. I put in the one from the FA20F WRX.

Any reason they say to use the STI one? Is it better? Didn't even realize those were compatible.
__________________
The answer is racecar. Always.
zkv476 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 08:53 AM   #10
Sportsguy83
I Love custom Turbo kits
 
Sportsguy83's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Drives: Limited BRZ
Location: Miami
Posts: 10,770
Thanks: 20,004
Thanked 8,343 Times in 4,361 Posts
Mentioned: 441 Post(s)
Tagged: 12 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by zkv476 View Post
Yea idk who said the stock PCV is plastic; it is very much metal. I put in the one from the FA20F WRX.

Any reason they say to use the STI one? Is it better? Didn't even realize those were compatible.
Shouldn't be much difference. WRX/STI, both were made to see boost, so they both work for the application.
Sportsguy83 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 02:48 PM   #11
spitfire481
Senior Member
 
spitfire481's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: 2JZ FRS
Location: Pure Automotive Performance
Posts: 1,378
Thanks: 97
Thanked 1,354 Times in 621 Posts
Mentioned: 27 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
its definitely metal. i drilled out the check valve in mine so it was wide open for my atmospheric vent catch can.
__________________
Pure Automotive Performance
MoTeC
Build Thread
@spitfire481
spitfire481 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 06:31 PM   #12
GsxrMe
Senior Member
 
GsxrMe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Drives: Late 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Cape Coral, FL
Posts: 557
Thanks: 20
Thanked 183 Times in 139 Posts
Mentioned: 5 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by spitfire481 View Post
its definitely metal. i drilled out the check valve in mine so it was wide open for my atmospheric vent catch can.
BINGO

Yep. Blow by creates presure in the case. If the valve is shut over boost then the crankcase can't let the presure out. The front case vent isn't enough.

Put a cap plug on your intake plenum and vent to atmosphere. a filter popped on the barb is better than back presure. And BOOM!

When I boosted my Busa, I left my crackcase vent wide open. Not worth it not to.
__________________
2014 Subaru BRZ
FBM Turbokit: GTX3076R - ECUTEK HRI FlexFuel tune - FBM 3" Turboback Exhaust - 550cc Injectors - Walbro 485 Fuel Pump - 4bar Map Sensor - FBM Oil Pan - ACT SB7-XTSS - AMSOIL all fluids - Forester XT Oil Cooler - Cusco engine, trans mounts - Whiteline rear differential bushings - Perrin shifter bushing - Firehawk 235/45/17 - AEM Failsafe
GsxrMe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2016, 12:36 AM   #13
apelpapa
Member
 
apelpapa's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Drives: 2013 SPD Black FR-S
Location: Parker, CO
Posts: 76
Thanks: 7
Thanked 6 Times in 6 Posts
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Ya, I'm not sure were I heard that it was plastic. Thanks for the replies guys.
apelpapa is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2016, 09:15 PM   #14
mrk1
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Drives: Sterling BRZ Ltd
Location: New England
Posts: 1,702
Thanks: 403
Thanked 1,389 Times in 671 Posts
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
I run a VTA can and just replaced the valve with a hose fitting of the correct threads, boom done.

I did it just for simplicity, one less thing to fail.
__________________
The Build Thread

GT28RS - eBoost2 - 3.91 Final Drive - Supra LSD
mrk1 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: Fumoto Valve jvenetto Engine, Exhaust, Bolt-Ons 6 10-01-2015 07:16 AM
PCV valve leaking? jamesm Forced Induction 24 12-25-2014 06:38 PM
Heart valve replacement surgery mike the snake Off-Topic Lounge [WARNING: NO POLITICS] 94 09-17-2014 01:45 PM
Exhaust Cut Off Valve beagoodruslan Engine, Exhaust, Transmission 2 01-01-2014 01:47 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 12:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.