Cheaper upgraded motor mount options??

[why?]

Originally Posted by Slade

my mounts on my 2014 are bad. I'm looking to get new ones, but I don't want any NVH so Cusco and Perrin are out for me. I was told if you have mods you shouldn't get oem mounts. Looking at the Megan racing as I like the price and a poster above said he got minimal NVH, but I'm not sure Megan doesnt have the best reputation. I wanted the STI, but they seem to be sold out everywhere. Can anyone recommend me some mounts? what about Torque Solution? is that a quality brand? Thanks!

unless you are heavily tracking your car, Megan will be good enough.

[Slade]

Originally Posted by why?

unless you are heavily tracking your car, Megan will be good enough.

Thanks for responding to me in both threads haha, I really appreciate it. I never tracked my car, so I'll take your recommendation. Megan will add a little NVH, but nothing crazy?

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by Slade

my mounts on my 2014 are bad. I'm looking to get new ones, but I don't want any NVH so Cusco and Perrin are out for me. I was told if you have mods you shouldn't get oem mounts. Looking at the Megan racing as I like the price and a poster above said he got minimal NVH, but I'm not sure Megan doesnt have the best reputation. I wanted the STI, but they seem to be sold out everywhere. Can anyone recommend me some mounts? what about Torque Solution? is that a quality brand? Thanks!

I am not convinced there is a lot of point getting stiffer mounts when you are auto due to the inherent 'slop' they have. That said I haven't driven an auto twin so could be very wrong. I am also not sure why people would say you need upgraded mounts if you aren't FI other than a few specific situations. For instance i have the TRD (which are the same as the STi) motor and g/box mounts because my overpipe would rattle against the steering column on hard left hand turns (right hand drive problems)

[Slade]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

I am not convinced there is a lot of point getting stiffer mounts when you are auto due to the inherent 'slop' they have. That said I haven't driven an auto twin so could be very wrong. I am also not sure why people would say you need upgraded mounts if you aren't FI other than a few specific situations. For instance i have the TRD (which are the same as the STi) motor and g/box mounts because my overpipe would rattle against the steering column on hard left hand turns (right hand drive problems)

Sorry I wasn't clear, no one specifically told me I need to get upgraded mounts. Thats just what I saw from doing research on these forums. So pretty much what you are saying is because I am an auto with basic bolt ons. OEM or just STI mounts would be sufficient?

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by Slade

Sorry I wasn't clear, no one specifically told me I need to get upgraded mounts. Thats just what I saw from doing research on these forums. So pretty much what you are saying is because I am an auto with basic bolt ons. OEM or just STI mounts would be sufficient?

On my car changing the drive shaft to a one piece made far more difference to driving feel than changing motor and gearbox mounts.

[why?]

Originally Posted by Slade

Thanks for responding to me in both threads haha, I really appreciate it. I never tracked my car, so I'll take your recommendation. Megan will add a little NVH, but nothing crazy?

I don't know. Only way to know if you can handle it is to find someone with them and take a ride. Some people cannot deal with any, some people don't care about it at all.

[RToyo86]

Originally Posted by Slade

Thanks for responding to me in both threads haha, I really appreciate it. I never tracked my car, so I'll take your recommendation. Megan will add a little NVH, but nothing crazy?

Megan rate them at a 70A on the durometer scale.
Perrin looks to be at a 75A with a different design.
I can't find any info on what the stock mounts are rated at, but you'll definitely notice some engine vibrations at 70a.

I had 70-75A mounts on my integra and the entire interior rattled like a crapbox on startup and at idle.
The trade off was too much for my preference on a street car. Everyone is different but I drive 20k+ km a year and can't deal with that.

STi doesn't list what the durometer rating is but I wouldn't be surprised if it was in the 60a range.

[Celica00]

Originally Posted by Turdinator

On my car changing the drive shaft to a one piece made far more difference to driving feel than changing motor and gearbox mounts.

Positive difference?

[why?]

Originally Posted by Celica00

Positive difference?

absolutely. rear end bushings and inserts are great too.

[Celica00]

Originally Posted by why?

absolutely. rear end bushings and inserts are great too.

Going to one piece would be my next mod, but I saw a video of someone who's cabin noise was pretty ridiculous. Made me hesitant.

Don't mind the V and H in NVH, but the N can be grating.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Slade

Sorry I wasn't clear, no one specifically told me I need to get upgraded mounts. Thats just what I saw from doing research on these forums. So pretty much what you are saying is because I am an auto with basic bolt ons. OEM or just STI mounts would be sufficient?

Auto really makes no difference in this scenario. The auto doesn't have “slop” and the entire drivetrain still needs to be “loaded” regardless.

I had STI Mounts, whiteline trans insert, rear diff collars, DSS CF DS with zero NVH changes to speak of. Then i added rear subframe inserts and it turned the rear end into a washing machine at 60+ mph so removed those. Then i tried cusco engine mounts turned my front end into a washing machine at sub 3k rpm so switched back to STI.

If you are NA no point really going beyond sti mounts. The more things you add and combine not all of them will play nicely with each other either. I think the above selection is the ideal combination for maximum performance at almost
zero compromise.

[Turdinator]

Originally Posted by Celica00

Positive difference?

Yes, one of my favorite mods for feel. It did increase the noise and initially vibration but that went away once I found the right place to balance it.

[why?]

Originally Posted by Celica00

Going to one piece would be my next mod, but I saw a video of someone who's cabin noise was pretty ridiculous. Made me hesitant.

Don't mind the V and H in NVH, but the N can be grating.

it's certainly added volume. It's all personal preference if you can deal with it.

[Slade]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

Auto really makes no difference in this scenario. The auto doesn't have “slop” and the entire drivetrain still needs to be “loaded” regardless.

I had STI Mounts, whiteline trans insert, rear diff collars, DSS CF DS with zero NVH changes to speak of. Then i added rear subframe inserts and it turned the rear end into a washing machine at 60+ mph so removed those. Then i tried cusco engine mounts turned my front end into a washing machine at sub 3k rpm so switched back to STI.

If you are NA no point really going beyond sti mounts. The more things you add and combine not all of them will play nicely with each other either. I think the above selection is the ideal combination for maximum performance at almost
zero compromise.

Thanks for this. Unfortunately STI mounts are backordered everywhere. Idk if I should wait or just go with OEM.