CSG and RCE tag-team suspension Q&A thread! Ask us anything!

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by Tokay444

Never. Maybe it might work for a cone dodger, but on a real track with a fast car? Never.

I was lazy so looked where I thought I'd find the fastest answer. The second post in this thread is from Jim Drago on setting up a Spec Miata. "Oh that's not a fast car, what a joke!"

Jim Drago hustled his Spec Miata around Laguna Seca in 1:45 to an 86's 1:51 with Pobst behind the wheel. That's a Miata with <130 horsepower and race slicks that are measley 205's, oh and 1/16"-1/8" toe out at the front according to him.

http://mazdaracers.com/topic/4636-to...ht-line-speed/

Ultimately setting up a racecar is done to the drivers taste, what works for one guy can be a nightmare for another, you can do whatever the hell you like, but saying shit like this is just downright silly.

And I decided to spend another 2 minutes googling and found this:

In general, an F1 car will have about 1 degree of toe-out on the front tyres and 1-2 degrees toe-in on the rear tyres.

https://thewptformula.com/2016/02/11/analysis/

In this post there's a spyshot of Raikkonen's test Lotus setup sheet showing 1mm toe out on each front wheel (along with an Arrows setup sheet that agrees):
http://f1framework.blogspot.com/2012...car-setup.html

I mean, if you know something that Renault F1 team (Edit: the same team that gave Schumacher and Alonso world championships) doesn't that would help a guy like Kimi Raikkonen go faster you could probably make some good money.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88

So I'm looking to upgrade the springs on my SACHS coilovers. Current rates are 38N/mm in the front and a progressive rear rate of 20-45 N/mm.

I want to go to something stiffer, since those are pretty soft rates, and definitely switch the rears to linear.

Relevant info for the car: Daily driven with around 10-15 track days and as many autox events as I can possibly run in a season.

Current modifications (apart from the SACHS coilovers): No real power mods (only thing apart from suspension is a muffler delete and drop-in filter), 17x8 wheels with 225/45 ZII Star Specs, and original Whiteline LCAs. I'm trying to sort out my camber plate situation, but once it's finally figured out I plan to run F-2.5 and R-2 to start with.

Seems like, based on what I've seen RCE and CSG suggest/run, the cars tend to do quite well with 400-450 lbs/in squared or F 400 lbs/in R 450 lbs/in.

Given the info above I'm leaning toward Hyperco 450lbs/in springs all around, but would certainly appreciate any information/input from those with greater knowledge and experience on these matters than myself. haha

Will you be able to have the damper revalved?

- Andrew

[Shark_Bait88]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Will you be able to have the damper revalved?

- Andrew

I can have it sent out to be revalved.

However, in talking with the suspension guy at ZF Race Engineering he said that I should be good to add springs up to 200lbs/in stiffer without needing a revalve.

[DaBrz]

First timer...
Does bigger sear bars, end links, and rear lca cause more noise?
I'm.getting uhh by noises over smaller bumps like on brick roads.

Also, how much do you need to torque the rears of time flex Zs once it's on the car?

Thanks.

[gramicci101]

For #1, something isn't tightened all the way. Check it all again and you'll probably find the culprit.

[solidONE]

Originally Posted by DaBrz

First timer...
Does bigger sear bars, end links, and rear lca cause more noise?
I'm.getting uhh by noises over smaller bumps like on brick roads.

Also, how much do you need to torque the rears of time flex Zs once it's on the car?

Thanks.

Originally Posted by gramicci101

For #1, something isn't tightened all the way. Check it all again and you'll probably find the culprit.

2nded. Check and torque down all the hardware you touched on the install.

[ZionsWrath]

My last set of tires had more wear on the edge. Got a new set and went for alignment.

I have stock suspension with Front Camber plate and rear LCA.

I asked the shop for increased camber and he asked what tires I was running. I am using 200TW street tires, right now AD08R. He said in his experience more than ~2.5 front/2.0 rear on street tires isn't beneficial. He recommended I get some suspension upgrades, at least stiffer springs and if coils he recommended RCE Tarmac 2. The reasoning being even if I increase camber the soft stock suspension is still going to cause edge wear on the tires.

Does this sound reasonable? I was hoping not to spend a lot of $ on suspension.

[strat61caster]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

My last set of tires had more wear on the edge. Got a new set and went for alignment.

I have stock suspension with Front Camber plate and rear LCA.

I asked the shop for increased camber and he asked what tires I was running. I am using 200TW street tires, right now AD08R. He said in his experience more than ~2.5 front/2.0 rear on street tires isn't beneficial. He recommended I get some suspension upgrades, at least stiffer springs and if coils he recommended RCE Tarmac 2. The reasoning being even if I increase camber the soft stock suspension is still going to cause edge wear on the tires.

Does this sound reasonable? I was hoping not to spend a lot of $ on suspension.

I was totally content running ZII SS with camber plates and everything else stock. I really liked the car running -3.2 degrees camber up front and OE rear (~1-1.5 degrees).

You're not going to break anything running what you've got, enjoy it, one of the best bangs for the buck imo.

[dp1]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

My last set of tires had more wear on the edge. Got a new set and went for alignment.

I have stock suspension with Front Camber plate and rear LCA.

I asked the shop for increased camber and he asked what tires I was running. I am using 200TW street tires, right now AD08R. He said in his experience more than ~2.5 front/2.0 rear on street tires isn't beneficial. He recommended I get some suspension upgrades, at least stiffer springs and if coils he recommended RCE Tarmac 2. The reasoning being even if I increase camber the soft stock suspension is still going to cause edge wear on the tires.

Does this sound reasonable? I was hoping not to spend a lot of $ on suspension.

I wonder how many track hours it takes to wear out OEM shocks

[TEWwild]

Originally Posted by dp1

I wonder how many track hours it takes to wear out OEM shocks

I'm wondering the same thing, I currently have 52 track days averaging 2 hrs of on track time per day and still going strong.... When I find out I'll let you know

Not the smoothest track around either...(Harris Hill Road)

[dp1]

Originally Posted by TEWwild

I'm wondering the same thing, I currently have 52 track days averaging 2 hrs of on track time per day and still going strong.... When I find out I'll let you know

Not the smoothest track around either...(Harris Hill Road)

That's great! Anybody experienced (unexpected) premature OEM shock failure from track use?

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by TEWwild

I'm wondering the same thing, I currently have 52 track days averaging 2 hrs of on track time per day and still going strong.... When I find out I'll let you know

Not the smoothest track around either...(Harris Hill Road)

For example, Emilio of 949 Racing, talking about XIDAs (custom built ASTs for Miatas), he has said they should last 200 hours of HPDE/TT use before they see a noticeable drop in damping.

As a reference.

Like everything else, heat is what kills everything.

[Keenercarguy]

What's a good STX-ready/ performance minded rear alignment setting? I'm currently running a slight bit of toe-in, and one my RCE yellow springs my rear camber is a bit too droopy (and not even, so I've got a little camber wear on my back right). I'm going to install LCA's soon.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Originally Posted by Keenercarguy

What's a good STX-ready/ performance minded rear alignment setting? I'm currently running a slight bit of toe-in, and one my RCE yellow springs my rear camber is a bit too droopy (and not even, so I've got a little camber wear on my back right). I'm going to install LCA's soon.

With rear LCAs, try around -2 degrees in the rear. Depending on the tire you're using, you might like a little a few tenths more.

Will definitely need around -3 up front.

- Andrew