2016 BRZ HU Subwoofer Install

[Kiwis]

So I've been searching the forums for solid 3 days now in regards to this so if you're going to say "google it, other people have made a thread", please is dead link it for specifically the 2016 Starlink BRZ headunit.

All things set aside, I've been following several different tutorials and I understand the basics of the install, I don't understand the wiring on the back of the headunit. It doesn't have ports for RCA and so it's been noted to use an RCA adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B8EJYU..._NVZbzbNP8RFW8

With this though, where do you connect it? Obviously you'll need to solder, splice, or use splitter clamps but the wiring on the back of the headunit isn't very explanatory... as shown below.



I'm fairly sure that the brown wire with silver diamonds is the remote start wire, however I'm unsure of where to connect the RCA (or LOC adapter, whatever) to. Someone mind pointing me in the right direction?

[Chimera]

Don't use what you linked.


What you want to use is a Line Out Converter (commonly referred to as LOC). A LOC will have a high impedence (usually 10k or higher), and so can be wired in parallel to a load, also refered to as tapping a signal commonly, A stereo LOC is best so you can get bass signal from both right and left and sum it to mono for a mono sub install (which is the most common) basically you want bass whether from left or right.


The Amp in the rear of the car has front full signal for both right and left and is used for powering the door speakers. In this car it is considered the easiest place to wire a LOC.


see this thread for a lot of info on the stock amp, you need to know which wires are for input front right and left, it'll be 4 wires, and remote on is also useful.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239


further in the thread it describes how to use metra harnesses to wire a LOC to the inputs without cutting any factory wires, costs a little more, but makes the work easier, and 100% reversible.

[Kiwis]

Originally Posted by Chimera

Don't use what you linked.


What you want to use is a Line Out Converter (commonly referred to as LOC). A LOC will have a high impedence (usually 10k or higher), and so can be wired in parallel to a load, also refered to as tapping a signal commonly, A stereo LOC is best so you can get bass signal from both right and left and sum it to mono for a mono sub install (which is the most common) basically you want bass whether from left or right.


The Amp in the rear of the car has front full signal for both right and left and is used for powering the door speakers. In this car it is considered the easiest place to wire a LOC.


see this thread for a lot of info on the stock amp, you need to know which wires are for input front right and left, it'll be 4 wires, and remote on is also useful.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=42239


further in the thread it describes how to use metra harnesses to wire a LOC to the inputs without cutting any factory wires, costs a little more, but makes the work easier, and 100% reversible.

Please do correct me if I'm wrong, I'd love to learn, but here goes.

After going through the thread, it appears that they're all attempting to exchange the original stock amp for an aftermarket one and go from there. What I'd preferably like is to install a secondary one purely for my subwoofer. If it means anything, it's a 1-channel class D 500W amp.

I read a bit further into the thread talking about the metra harness but it involves practically building your own. This is for the guy who has absolutely no knowledge when it comes to wires but is stubborn enough to want to try the process without the help of a shop.

In addition, why would it be best to wire from the rear amp than from the front headunit? Wouldn't the headunit be a smarter option than the rear amp as everyone says there isn't much power back there or something alone those lines?

My concern is I don't want to blow something like a rear speaker or two. Yes, it being fully reversible would be great but at this point, I'd love to get it to become functional as I don't intend to get of this car for at least the next 4 years and by then, it's bound to be in some sort of accident or handed down.

[KnightRyderx2]

Originally Posted by Kiwis

So I've been searching the forums for solid 3 days now in regards to this so if you're going to say "google it, other people have made a thread", please is dead link it for specifically the 2016 Starlink BRZ headunit.

Someone mind pointing me in the right direction?

All the wiring you need is at the rear amp in the trunk, except for power and ground. All the speaker connections and your remote can be tapped in from there. You will use the input wires for the amp not the output to the speakers. This link has the video I used to hook it all up.

Also if your amp has speaker level inputs, most do, just use that to tap directly into the wires by the OEM amp. No need to buy anything else.

[Kiwis]

Originally Posted by KnightRyderx2

All the wiring you need is at the rear amp in the trunk, except for power and ground. All the speaker connections and your remote can be tapped in from there. You will use the input wires for the amp not the output to the speakers. This link has the video I used to hook it all up.

Also if your amp has speaker level inputs, most do, just use that to tap directly into the wires by the OEM amp. No need to buy anything else.

Last question then as I seem to get the basic idea:
You say no need to purchase anything else however we come full circle to the LOC. Purchase that, connect it to the rear amp input wires and not the output and then proceed with the rest of the install?

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by Kiwis

Last question then as I seem to get the basic idea:
You say no need to purchase anything else however we come full circle to the LOC. Purchase that, connect it to the rear amp input wires and not the output and then proceed with the rest of the install?

KnightRyderx2's saying nothing else needs to be purchased if your amp has high level inputs, which are in effect a LOC built into the amp. Some amps have this feature, some do not. Admittedly reducing hardware and simplifying installs is always a plus, so if yours has that option it would prob be your bext route. What brand/model amp are you using?

[Kiwis]

Originally Posted by Chimera

KnightRyderx2's saying nothing else needs to be purchased if your amp has high level inputs, which are in effect a LOC built into the amp. Some amps have this feature, some do not. Admittedly reducing hardware and simplifying installs is always a plus, so if yours has that option it would prob be your bext route. What brand/model amp are you using?

I'm using the Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier.

[Chimera]

Originally Posted by Kiwis

I'm using the Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier.

that amp does have high level inputs as a feature.

[KnightRyderx2]

A LOC has speaker wire on one end with a box that has RCA outputs on the other. This will allow you to use your RCA cable to your amp. This type of device would be used on a car when the head unit has not RCA outputs, like the stock unit.

A lot of amps now a days come with a LOC built in and label the inputs as "speaker level input." Basically the speaker level input allows you run a wire directly from the speaker wire to the amp utilizing this as the input, you will do nothing with RCAs now. Your amp does come with this type of input.

So basically you will run 4 wires, right +- and left +-, from the OEM amp input side to the speaker level input on your new amp. Plus one additional wire for the remote turn on which you can get form there also. The link I posted has the wire colors for each.

[Kiwis]

So I pretty much installed it as the video states and my car decided to short itself.

Right door speaker went out, then the left. The front speakers went out and then the rear speakers. Finally the headunit shut off and then all my lights (anything with a bulb or LED) decided to come on and the car made the sound it makes like a door is open when everything was closed.

Any ideas how that would happen? Short in the wires somewhere? Is it possible the amp is drawing too much power or the sub because of where I'm connecting into the wiring harness for the rear amp?

[KnightRyderx2]

Originally Posted by Kiwis

So I pretty much installed it as the video states and my car decided to short itself.

Right door speaker went out, then the left. The front speakers went out and then the rear speakers. Finally the headunit shut off and then all my lights (anything with a bulb or LED) decided to come on and the car made the sound it makes like a door is open when everything was closed.

Any ideas how that would happen? Short in the wires somewhere? Is it possible the amp is drawing too much power or the sub because of where I'm connecting into the wiring harness for the rear amp?

How did you hook up all the wiring? Did you hook up the amp power directly to the battery? You may want to move your ground to more isolated spot in the trunk; I have used the seat belt buckle bolt in the past. Check all the speaker level input wires to make sure they are not crossed and on the proper channel. Also make sure the remote turn on is not touching anything. Does the car work fine if you don't power up the amp?

[Kiwis]

Originally Posted by KnightRyderx2

How did you hook up all the wiring? Did you hook up the amp power directly to the battery? You may want to move your ground to more isolated spot in the trunk; I have used the seat belt buckle bolt in the past. Check all the speaker level input wires to make sure they are not crossed and on the proper channel. Also make sure the remote turn on is not touching anything. Does the car work fine if you don't power up the amp?

I used saddle clips to connect all the wires, I can snap pictures later. The amp was hooked directly to the battery power, ran it all down the right side of the car. I debated using a ground point in the trunk that's right by the latching point, maybe that's a better option...? What do you mean by crossed? Like, using the wrong wires or intertwined? The remote turn on is fully in the amp and then in one of the saddle clips to the green wire. The rest of the wire is hanging around because I didn't want to reassemble but wooden trunk setup in the case something happened which... well... it did.

As for the car, the battery is still connected so it's receiving power. I haven't attempted to drive it because there's wires all over the place in the trunk and the lights wouldn't turn off until everything in the trunk was disconnected. This morning I didn't have time to check the current situation.

[KnightRyderx2]

By crossed I mean connecting + to - or the wrong channels together or something like that. Basically make sure the L+ on the OEM harness is going to the L+ on the speaker level input and L- going to L- and so on and so forth, make sure they are hooked up to the correct places. The link I put also has a link to a wiring harness schematic just to make sure the colors are all good.

Also make sure there is no stray non-isolated wires hanging out that can ground on the chassis or touch each other.

Try leaving the speaker level input harness at the aftermarket amp disconnected and then turn on the car. There will be no audio out of the amp but this is to isolate what maybe the problem. If the car is normal and the amp turns on your problem would be with the speaker level input. At this point check the wiring is absolutely correct and hooked up securely. Then hook it back up to the amp and turn the car on. If its still messed up then the speaker level input on the amp maybe messed.

Also, at your aftermarket amp make sure there is no frays from the remote or the ground touching each other or the chassis of the amp.