06-12-2013, 11:34 AM | #15 |
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How do I grow a bigger pair of cajones?
(Heart says GO! Brain says... NO!) |
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06-12-2013, 11:34 AM | #16 | |
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Quote:
That being said, if you look at our engine failure, the journal bearing on our cyl 2 is pretty heavily damaged, but our oil level wasn't ever low, and we never ran anything stickier than a 235 R-Comp, ever. The absolute limit of lateral G before oil starvation is yet to be determined. However, the oil pan design seems to be pretty good for pickup... |
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | AndyB (06-12-2013) |
06-12-2013, 11:36 AM | #17 | |
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Data is the best way to determine this. |
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06-12-2013, 11:37 AM | #18 |
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06-12-2013, 12:26 PM | #19 |
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This. I was able to more effectively navigate the track after a ride-along with you at WSIR. I can't wait to see how the new wheels and tires handle!
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06-12-2013, 01:25 PM | #20 |
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How significant are lighter weight wheels on cornering speeds/lap times? Do you gain mostly in braking/accelerating?
Also I feel like my transmission is getting rocked around as the shift nob moves all over the place through corners and over bumps..will harsher mounts really improve anything or more just feel? For camber is -1.8F and -1.2R a good set up for street use and occasional track (HPDE) use?
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06-12-2013, 03:30 PM | #21 | |
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Harsher mounts will reduce play. Long term effects are still unknown, but based on anecdotal evidence from other cars, I'd speculate that it'll reduce movement, and increase wear on the components that are being stressed more by the lack of movement. If you're trying to find a good balance of tire life and maximizing tire potential on grip, that seems to be a pretty fair amount of camber. Adjust according to wear to maximize life; adjust by pyrometer for maximum grip. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to CSG Mike For This Useful Post: | swift996 (06-12-2013) |
06-12-2013, 09:37 PM | #22 |
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Tom |
06-12-2013, 10:02 PM | #23 | |
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Will OEM rear pads last with front race pads? Sure. Keep in mind, your brake bias will be at the front, and you're going to be overworking the fronts, leading to significantly decreased front brake pad life. I recommend using similar compounds front and rear. If you don't do the pedal dance, then your rears will overheat and wear quickly. Compromise/mixed-duty/hybrid pads are, by definition, a compromise. Nothing does it all. That being said, I street drive on race pads, and with proper bedding, noise is minimal; my setup easily passes the "girl test". If you want long pad life, invest in a big brake kit, and proper brake cooling (ducts). Brakes not used much compared to what? If you have/need an in-car instructor, forget about your lap times. Focus on the coaching you're getting, and your lap times will naturally drop. If you're still carrying an in-car instructor, their knowledge and guidance will far outweigh the extra weight. FWIW, the extra weight isn't a huge lap time difference to begin with. In my case, less than 1s on a 2:00 lap with a ~160lb passenger. |
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06-13-2013, 07:36 PM | #24 | |
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Thanks for your help, I will try track pads front and rear. Maybe wimpy track pads like the Ferodo 2500. |
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06-13-2013, 10:18 PM | #25 |
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Stupid question, but kinda track related. Where does one go to get helmets? I cant seem to find anyplace near Dallas that has them that I can try on. I have a large melon, and helmets (football, for example) have always been a problem for me, in size, comfort, etc. and I would really prefer to put it on before I buy one....
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06-13-2013, 10:22 PM | #26 |
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What camber and caster would you recommend?
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06-13-2013, 10:45 PM | #27 |
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First off, thanks a bunch for putting your time into this thread, you're really helping the community out here.
Down to the questions, albeit rather...."unanswerable" What would be your top 10 AutoX and HPDE performance/preventative maintenance "modifications" for the budget minded driver? Many of us new owners are young, without a ton of money to throw at the car, but want to enjoy it for what it is meant for. While I realize AutoX and tracking the car are ENTIRELY different situations, what are the best things you can do to add performance and maximize the life of the vehicle in its entirety? FWIW from my research the winner is a tire upgrade, followed by things like upgraded differential fluid (as some have found it to be "burnt" after track use), crash bolts, pads, sway bar etc... Also, if the answer to my first question didn't cover this, how concerned should us weekend warriors be with all the elasticity of the rear end? Do you think this compliance helps with component life in general, or would stiffening things up be better for the twins? Again, I realize these questions lay heavily on preference, but your opinion will certainly be taken more seriously than all those of the keyboard warriors on this forum. |
06-14-2013, 12:11 PM | #28 | |||
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I don't know... what car would you recommend? The more data you can provide me, the more data I can interpret and give you feedback on.
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Budget friendly and what I consider essential mods in Italics. Performance: - Good dampers (cannot stress this enough) - Camber Bolts and/or camber plates - Alignment (only if you have alignment mods... otherwise you can only do toe) - Good tires Preventative mods/parts/maintenance - Appropriate brake pads front and rear, not just front; prevents brake fade (you don't want your brakes to stop working) - Appropriate brake fluid; prevents brake fluid from boiling or pedal getting mushy (same as above) - Big brake kit (reduces operating cost SUBSTANTIALLY) - Alignment (bad alignment will increase tire wear and decrease performance) - Good fluids for oil, trans, diff (something that can take high temps) - Oil cooler (keeps oil... cooler) - Larger Radiator (stock radiator barely keeps engine cool) - Tune (until they fix that transient ignition timing map thats destroying injector collars..) Quote:
If I were building a high budget race car, bushings would be on my short list... but I wouldn't want to daily drive that car. |
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