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Old 04-25-2020, 09:31 PM   #15
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Very Nice,

Did it pass TUV?
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Old 04-26-2020, 01:29 PM   #16
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Very Nice,

Did it pass TUV?

Not yet, I need to slow the progress down a little since my budget for that project is limitted and I had some unplaned efforts due to the Magnum F. (When I calculated the budget it was planed to use the Camaro transmission. But it didn't fit due to the shifter receptacle on top of the housing pretty far forward and no space in the tunnel to get in a remote shifter without cutting major sections of the tunnel.)

Long story short, I will order the converters next week. Then I will prepared the exhaust section from downpipe to catback. As soon as this is welded I will make an integral heatshielding for the catalyser at least from DP to Y pipe. Once this is done and I have a better feeling with this shielding technique I will decide if also the headers will get an integral shielding, since I realy dont like the optic of the traditionell heat wrap tape.

The heatshielding needs to be on side of the manifold itself since the converters need the heat to work properly. Without that it will not be possible to pass E5 emission test. It is also possible that I need additional post converters, but for the moment I will try to go with one converter per bank.

Then I still need to upgrade the breakes, what is a very easy thing to do, but also pretty much the most expensive part of the project.

All this needs to be finished before I can bring the car to the inspection.

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Old 04-26-2020, 04:46 PM   #17
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From the video, it looks very OEM which is awesome.

I hope all goes well with the transmission and exhaust.

With regards to brakes are you thinking CTSV ?
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Old 04-26-2020, 05:00 PM   #18
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Fortunately at least the tranny is a solved point so far.

Regarding brakes Stoptech, K Sport or D2 are the feasable options since they are known that a TÜV approval is possible. A CTS V is not realy an option since they are not available arround here and also it should be a pain to get those through the approval.

Currently I'm tending towards D2 since they are available as dual fuel for the rear, what means a hydro E brake as flyoff could be possible while maintaining TÜV conformity as long as the OEM E brake is kept alive. But I need to dig a little deeper into regulations to See if this is realy possible.

Future plan is to hide the hydro master under the center console and have a click-on handle whith a receptacle under a small cover next to the shifter. But at least the hydro E brake part will be something for the next season.

Last edited by TRS; 04-27-2020 at 02:13 AM.
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Old 04-27-2020, 12:38 PM   #19
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Fortunately at least the tranny is a solved point so far.

Regarding brakes Stoptech, K Sport or D2 are the feasable options since they are known that a TÜV approval is possible. A CTS V is not realy an option since they are not available arround here and also it should be a pain to get those through the approval.

Currently I'm tending towards D2 since they are available as dual fuel for the rear, what means a hydro E brake as flyoff could be possible while maintaining TÜV conformity as long as the OEM E brake is kept alive. But I need to dig a little deeper into regulations to See if this is realy possible.

Future plan is to hide the hydro master under the center console and have a click-on handle whith a receptacle under a small cover next to the shifter. But at least the hydro E brake part will be something for the next season.
I'm in the process of putting a hydro hand brake in my BRZ. This piece will allow you to possibly tuck a slim design master cylinder under the center arm rest with out cutting it, but you'll need to have a remote reservoir. It also utilizes your stock hand brake but you'd still have to delete the drum brakes if you are using off the shelf dual caliper brackets.
I'm currently doing mine and everything is pretty much done except I'm waiting on a 5/8 bore cylinder. The one installed in my pictures and videos is a 3/4 bore which is too big for the handbrale and takes a ton of effort to move. It was an extra part that I had and hoping that it would work but ultimately the 3/4 bore will wear the handbrake components out far too quickly. Hopefully the 5/8 master cylinder will be a better feel. I will let you know if you're interested in how it feels.
Gktech is the company that produces the bracket and hardware. Youtube their video. This piece was designed for a 240sx but also is universal.

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Old 04-28-2020, 08:44 AM   #20
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It also utilizes your stock hand brake but you'd still have to delete the drum brakes if you are using off the shelf dual caliper brackets.
Great Post, thanks! Could you give a little more background why the drum brake needs to be removed with a dual fuel? I didnt research this topic yet, but I was assuming that the D2 dual fuel is pretty much using the same Setup as the standard BBK for the rear axel, which, as far I know, also keeps the stock handbrake. So there should be three brakes on the rear, stock drum, one Set of pads for hydro and one set for normal braking...

Concerning the master I was going to place next to the OEM brake handle, using the little rectangle where currently my switches for the heated seats are placed. Since those switch are kind of ugly anyway I was going to relocate them into the compartment under the armrest, what should be easy. Then cut out that rectangle and 3d print a removable cover to acces the reservoir of the master, so I also was trying to go with no remote reservoir as you did. Pretty much only more forward.

How is the handle for your hydro placed and fixed? I was going to make a milled aluminium braket which will be fixed with four screws holding the oem shifter boot. On top of that I was planing a mechanism to bring the movement of the handle pretty much arround the shifter to the center of the master sitting right next to the oem handle. Then a click in mechanism or bayonet to attach the hydro handle to the mechanism moving the master. The port for that shall be left or right of the shifter also with a small 3d printed cover. So I can remove the hydro handle quickly for daily driving and have in the trunk. When going to a drift day or whatever, just take it out and click it in.

Also the braket for the handle was planed to be included to that aluminum braket or maybe as a sheet metal part screwed to it, depending how the design turns out once I start with that.

Last edited by TRS; 04-28-2020 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 04-28-2020, 09:14 AM   #21
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In the picture it looks as though he is using the cable from the oem e-brake to actuate a lever on the hydraulic master cyl. under the center console. So just the oem e-brake was reused for the hydraulic system, and the mechanical e-brake actuation was eliminated.
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Old 04-28-2020, 10:49 AM   #22
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In the picture it looks as though he is using the cable from the oem e-brake to actuate a lever on the hydraulic master cyl. under the center console. So just the oem e-brake was reused for the hydraulic system, and the mechanical e-brake actuation was eliminated.
Ahh, yes. Now that you say it, I saw it. No thats of course no option for my car. In Germany a mechanical handbrake is mandatory for road cars. I definately need both, hydro and mechanical, running to get approval.
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Old 05-05-2020, 05:27 PM   #23
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Materials list in post #1 updated, should be nearly complete now, though still not finished
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Old 05-09-2020, 07:37 PM   #24
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DIY integral insulation: CHECK

Since I feel that this technique is not very popular, a little explanation: This is a heatshielding technique, where the shielded part gets covered with self adhessive ceramic viber mates. After that smaler gaps (mostly found an headers, where tubes are running to the collector and so one) are filled with more ceramic viber material. Than everything gets plated with a 0.1mm thick stainless steel foil which is resistance welded to the base material and between each other. The addhesive of the ceramic mate burns of when the system is heated up for the first time. The stainless steel foil than holds everything in place.

This technique is more common on OEM exhaust systems, since custom manufacturing is very work intensiv. There also preformed shapes are used and often not welded but folded between each other. For custom aplications it is usualy welded. There are some derivate techniques where the material is hold in place with steel cable ties or similar. This is a much easier methode, but in most cases its not as effective or complete and as well not as estehetic. Integral insulation is outperforming traditinal heat wraping in heat reduction by far. As well it doesnt Show the effect like Many heat wraps, that it falls apart when toching it after it once was hot. The only downsides are the slightly higher weight but mainly the much higher effort (or cost). In my case it was about 12h for ceramic mates on both and steel plating on one header. So I expect 18h for the two of them. Later also the downpipes and converters will be covered. But for those components the process is much easier.

Reasons why I diced to go that route:
-very good heatshielding needed to get the converters to work early after cold start, required to pass the full scale emmision test for street approval
-heat shielding for the engine compartment, on one hand to protect all components in there aginst high temperatures, on the other of course for performance reasons
-more effective than heat wraping
-more OEM and cleaner look
-no issues or need to re-do the process in case headers has to be removed what I expect to be necessary in order to exchange spark plug on right hand side due to the shape of the CX headers





Left hand side only yet, to be continued...

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Old 05-11-2020, 09:50 AM   #25
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That is pretty awesome.

But that is really tight between the shield and the heat shield you have on the frame rail. You must have really stiff motor mounts if you don't get contact the between those components.
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Old 05-11-2020, 02:13 PM   #26
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That is pretty awesome.

But that is really tight between the shield and the heat shield you have on the frame rail. You must have really stiff motor mounts if you don't get contact the between those components.
Thats true, but the base material of the shield plates is 1.5mm aluminium. I already formed them a little for more space after takeing the pictures. If this is not enough I will fabricate a version with an embossed deepening in this area.

This beeing said, the engine and trans mounts are way stiffer than the FA20 mounts as found at pretty much any LS swap.

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Old 05-30-2020, 04:38 PM   #27
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Car is pretty much finished meanwhile. Exhaust is ready. Very acceptable loudness range. Driving smoothly through the city car is almost not noticable. Full throttle makes a good sound with a (for Germany) acceptable loudness. (at least in my book) No major issues on the first testdrives. Two little space issues with the Front axle stabilizer and the driveshaft arround the fuel tank heat shield. Also I needed to rework a connector of the fuel line. Besides that some minor Software issues. Needed to find a limiter setting which Was hindering the car to go over 100mph. Changed that. Now working to get a full emission test driving cycle together. Also the a/c fluid is still missing.

Some hard facts:

100-200kph (~60-120mph) = 8,43s

Very poor shift from 3rd to 4th. Log says more than 1s. As well the clutch learning (the LS ECU is learning the bite point somehow to hinder the driver from unwanted clutch kicks, at least it seems like that as far as I feel, still digging into the LS software topic...) So, long Story Short, below 8s should be very possible.

Weight before swap 1287kg, thereof 698kg on front axle (3/4 fuel, without driver)

Weight after swap 1349kg, thereof 777kg on front axle (1/1 fuel, without driver)

A view kg more will be added since the big brake kit is still missing.

No serious handling testing yet, but from what I was able to feel for now the car seems not to have noticable increased understeering or oversteering when rolling through a corner. Well, I changed the suspension setting a little already.

The aggressiv torque of the LS is just amazing. Cant get enough of that. Crusing with 50kph in 6th gear, no problem. Even uphills and even accelerating. Unbelivable.

No Real drifting yet, just a little 1st gear power sliding, but feels simply great so far.

TCS is handeled by the GM ECU now. Performs by far better than the OEM TCS. Traction feels great. The wide ratio axle with the wide ratio trans is great.

VSC, VSC Sport and Full Off Mode working as before. Seems that also the basic behavior didnt change compared to what it was before as far as I can judge it now.

Cruise control and push Button Start also working. Just one more huge compliment to Andrew from AGT Engineering. A great product with unbeliveable ease of Installation. I would say with my parts list and a good set of mounts and brakets and all that stuff a normal skilled mechanic could do this swap.

Love the build so far. For real, go and LS swap your 86'. Its great.

Edit: Added some of the latest pics...




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Old 05-31-2020, 05:51 PM   #28
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Yeeeaahh!!!!! Awsome build my man!!!! You deserve it!!!!
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