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02-25-2016, 02:38 PM | #15 |
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02-25-2016, 03:05 PM | #16 |
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Start with -2 and lowering it and see where that brings you. -2 to -2.5 is a good amount and is great performance wise.
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02-25-2016, 03:10 PM | #17 |
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02-25-2016, 03:14 PM | #18 |
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I have 245/35 18x8.5 +33 lowered on springs with camber bolts ~ -1 degree camber and it pokes just slightly. I don't rub at all on stock struts even at full lock. I'm considering camber plates so I can get to -2
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02-25-2016, 03:23 PM | #19 |
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for the fronts, you're going to need either camber bolts or adjustable top hats to get more negative camber. on these cars, the fronts wont camber in much just by lowering... only the rears do that noticeably on their own.
with camber bolts only on stock suspension or lowering springs, you'll only get small negative camber like up to -1.5deg if that. might be good enough for what you want, but i'd aim for at least -2deg with that set up in the fronts.
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02-25-2016, 03:32 PM | #20 |
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-2.0 or -2.5 up front is what you need to set it even up top, if you lower the car an inch all around the 1" drop in the rear should set the rear camber to about -2.25,-2.5 range so as long as you set the toe F+R you should be fine on tire wear, performance and looks.
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02-26-2016, 06:02 AM | #21 | |
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That offset is what's killing ya. But you bought them now you have to live with it. My DD setup(also my autoX) is -3.4 camber with a little toe out and tire wear is perfect. Just lower it camber in the front and it will help |
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02-26-2016, 08:46 AM | #22 |
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Negative camber doesn't wear tires much. If you drive it 30k miles a year maybe but most people never see enough miles to matter, you can just rotate your tires to wear the other side anyways. If you plan on any racing you'll need that camber for traction. I'm going up to -3.5 front this year. Lowering won't help much. Adjustable top hats will be what you need maybe rear LCAs, not sure on how far camber bolts can get you but I know I wouldn't want to get them and find out they aren't enough
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02-26-2016, 09:31 AM | #23 |
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I have 245/40/18 on 18x8.5+40, lowered roughly 1.5" with -2 camber on the front and it's perfectly flush. As people have said, it'll be tricky, but doable. I know the meaty tire guys running 265's on 18x9.5+40's can pull it off. That would have similar hub face to wheel outside distance of an 8.5+28.
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02-26-2016, 09:49 AM | #24 |
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Running -2.5 camber up front with 18x9.5 +35offset wheels and 245x35x18 tires. No poke.
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02-26-2016, 10:01 AM | #25 |
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Thanks for all the help guys! I think I'm going to go -2 on the front. One question I still have is, did you guys do it yourself, or did you bring it in to a mechanic?
I just had the guys at Tires Plus mount my wheels and when I asked about a custom alignment they said they could add negative camber if I wanted, but is this something better suited for a performance shop? Sent from my HTC One_M8 using Tapatalk |
02-26-2016, 10:08 AM | #26 | |
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Now there are DIY tools but if you don't plan on changing it often I'd just go to a shop. Also I suppose you could use a protractor app on your phone? I've never done this, I dunno how accurate it is, but it seems like it should work if you put a flat plate on the face off your wheel to measure on. Then you could get it really close to what you want for free and just have a shop even it up |
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02-26-2016, 10:20 AM | #27 |
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Your best bet is to get a trusted performance shop that does performance alignments.
ANYONE can do it with the proper rack and knowledge....but the average guys at NTB / Sears / ETC aren't trained in performance stuff. If you need additional parts to help with the alignment they wouldn't be able to help you acquire / suggest car specific parts FOR THE MOST PART. Also most aren't trained in performance alignment parts. I have ran across some good alignment people here and there at the chain places. All depends. |
02-26-2016, 10:28 AM | #28 | |
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