Mitsurugi: Reforged - Page 11 - Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community

Ashikabi · 06-02-2019, 06:49 PM

Ran a trigger test. No cam signal. Either sensor is bad or the wiring is wrong. One wire checks to ground, the other 2 have 5v. Pretty sure one should have 12v so I suspect wiring problem. Fixing this will likely since my idle/start issues

Ashikabi · 06-08-2019, 11:23 PM

So the Hydra Nemesis doesn't use the cam sensor. So I checked cam timing (this is a massive fucking pain in the ass. 100% check this before installing your engine) it seemed to me to be misaligned so I got a new timing kit. Trick Flow, double chain

Ashikabi · 06-10-2019, 10:15 PM

FYI it's "possible" to remove and replace the oil pump without removing the oil pan. But you have to get at this bolt and remove/replace it without dropping it in the oil pan. I used a standard 10mm wrench, a brake bleeder wrench (the more enclosed ones, the head was at an angle) a wire noose(prevent the bolt from being lost if it fell, a couple screwdrivers and picks.

Get it out halfway then get the noose around it, remove the bolt.

Do your shit before the motor is in. This was awful.

Use a file or grinder to cut little notches in the flange on the bolt.(the girlfriend cut the notches in the head, not the flange)

Move the oil pickup O-ring from the pump onto the male end of the pickup.

Use tension on your wire and a screwdriver to work the screw into it's hole. Use a screwdriver to hold the bolt up in place while you use another screw driver(in the notches you cut) to turn the bolt. Once you are halfway in you can switch to the wrenches if you like. Use the picks to disengage the noose and remove the wire

This was a huge fucking pain and the risk of dropping the bolt is pretty high. Again I highly recommend checking your cam timing/upgrading your chain while you can remove the oil pan

Ashikabi · 06-11-2019, 09:07 PM

I drove it again. New chain apparently made a huge difference. I've still got the same throttle body problem though: idle is very high and there is pretty intense suction on the throttle plate. Idle AFR is about 17. Maybe there is so much suction because of how fast the motor is turning? But how can it turn that fast with no air? When you get on the throttle the pedal is SIGNIFICANTLY stiffer when the motor is running until you get it cracked open a little then it frees up. But only when the motor is running. Also, when you first get on the throttle the RPM dips significantly as if that initial throttle opening is actually choking the motor. After being opened, the throttle plate doesn't really want to close again. But only while the car is running. How can I fix this guys?

Zer0 · 06-12-2019, 04:42 AM

Is your throttle position sensor adjustable. Its possible if its sending out the wrong signal, and the ecu is dumping in more fuel than it needs at idle. I would check tps, map, and maf or whatever your using any other signals that send info to the ecm to control fuel.

Ashikabi · 06-12-2019, 06:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zer0

Is your throttle position sensor adjustable. Its possible if its sending out the wrong signal, and the ecu is dumping in more fuel than it needs at idle. I would check tps, map, and maf or whatever your using any other signals that send info to the ecm to control fuel.

I can calibrate my TPS. MAP is internal in the computber. I don't believe I have a way to check it. I think I might recalibrate the wideband though

Zer0 · 06-12-2019, 07:01 AM

This is just me thinking outloud. I had a Honda swap with a miss wired tps, and it revved out at start up with closed throttle. Yours isn't as extreme but mine was wired in backwards so closed was full throttle. If you have a way to plug into the nemesis to view data that would be best or you could ohm out the sen. manually to test them. Just an idea. Good luck

Ashikabi · 06-12-2019, 07:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zer0

This is just me thinking outloud. I had a Honda swap with a miss wired tps, and it revved out at start up with closed throttle. Yours isn't as extreme but mine was wired in backwards so closed was full throttle. If you have a way to plug into the nemesis to view data that would be best or you could ohm out the sen. manually to test them. Just an idea. Good luck

I can see my TPS in the software. It reads a low angle when shut and a higher number when open so it's at least moving the right way. I could put an ohm meter on it though

Zer0 · 06-12-2019, 08:10 AM

That sounds good. Did you verify the vacuum line going to the nemesis is unobstructed, and has no holes? Pull it off at the computer for a second to test for vacuum signal

Ashikabi · 06-12-2019, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zer0

That sounds good. Did you verify the vacuum line going to the nemesis is unobstructed, and has no holes? Pull it off at the computer for a second to test for vacuum signal

That's a good idea, I'll try that

Zer0 · 06-12-2019, 08:57 AM

Have you taken it in for a tune yet? Not sure what the base tune is like when you receive the unit. You may want to contact customer service for advice as well. I could see the fuel maps causing you some issues if they are off.

Ashikabi · 06-12-2019, 09:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zer0

Have you taken it in for a tune yet? Not sure what the base tune is like when you receive the unit. You may want to contact customer service for advice as well. I could see the fuel maps causing you some issues if they are off.

I'm tuning myself. Base map is likely robbed from an LS3 and modified so it may very well be way off. Customer service is pretty sketchy

Sportsguy83 · 06-12-2019, 01:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ashikabi

I'm tuning myself. Base map is likely robbed from an LS3 and modified so it may very well be way off. Customer service is pretty sketchy

Local shop did a swap with a Nemesis from Element Tuning and customer service was awful. They also had an issue with idle.

You could try contacting the shop, and see if they can help remotely (not with tuning software but what did they do hardware wise to correct the idle issues). Lookup KAB customs in FL.

Ashikabi · 06-12-2019, 01:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

Local shop did a swap with a Nemesis from Element Tuning and customer service was awful. They also had an issue with idle.

You could try contacting the shop, and see if they can help remotely (not with tuning software but what did they do hardware wise to correct the idle issues). Lookup KAB customs in FL.

Thanks. I appreciate it

06-10-2019, 10:15 PM	#143
Ashikabi Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Drives: 2013 FR-S Location: Northwest Iowa Posts: 7,354 Thanks: 454 Thanked 4,542 Times in 2,947 Posts Mentioned: 59 Post(s) Tagged: 5 Thread(s)	FYI it's "possible" to remove and replace the oil pump without removing the oil pan. But you have to get at this bolt and remove/replace it without dropping it in the oil pan. I used a standard 10mm wrench, a brake bleeder wrench (the more enclosed ones, the head was at an angle) a wire noose(prevent the bolt from being lost if it fell, a couple screwdrivers and picks. Get it out halfway then get the noose around it, remove the bolt. Do your shit before the motor is in. This was awful. Use a file or grinder to cut little notches in the flange on the bolt.(the girlfriend cut the notches in the head, not the flange) Move the oil pickup O-ring from the pump onto the male end of the pickup. Use tension on your wire and a screwdriver to work the screw into it's hole. Use a screwdriver to hold the bolt up in place while you use another screw driver(in the notches you cut) to turn the bolt. Once you are halfway in you can switch to the wrenches if you like. Use the picks to disengage the noose and remove the wire This was a huge fucking pain and the risk of dropping the bolt is pretty high. Again I highly recommend checking your cam timing/upgrading your chain while you can remove the oil pan Last edited by Ashikabi; 08-05-2019 at 10:11 PM.

06-12-2019, 04:42 AM	#145
Zer0 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2015 frs Location: Ca Posts: 511 Thanks: 426 Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Is your throttle position sensor adjustable. Its possible if its sending out the wrong signal, and the ecu is dumping in more fuel than it needs at idle. I would check tps, map, and maf or whatever your using any other signals that send info to the ecm to control fuel. __________________ https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120922

06-12-2019, 07:01 AM	#147
Zer0 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2015 frs Location: Ca Posts: 511 Thanks: 426 Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	This is just me thinking outloud. I had a Honda swap with a miss wired tps, and it revved out at start up with closed throttle. Yours isn't as extreme but mine was wired in backwards so closed was full throttle. If you have a way to plug into the nemesis to view data that would be best or you could ohm out the sen. manually to test them. Just an idea. Good luck __________________ https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120922

06-12-2019, 08:10 AM	#149
Zer0 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2015 frs Location: Ca Posts: 511 Thanks: 426 Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	That sounds good. Did you verify the vacuum line going to the nemesis is unobstructed, and has no holes? Pull it off at the computer for a second to test for vacuum signal __________________ https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120922

06-12-2019, 08:57 AM	#151
Zer0 Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2015 Drives: 2015 frs Location: Ca Posts: 511 Thanks: 426 Thanked 196 Times in 148 Posts Mentioned: 5 Post(s) Tagged: 0 Thread(s)	Have you taken it in for a tune yet? Not sure what the base tune is like when you receive the unit. You may want to contact customer service for advice as well. I could see the fuel maps causing you some issues if they are off. __________________ https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=120922

06-02-2019, 06:49 PM	#141
Ashikabi Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Drives: 2013 FR-S Location: Northwest Iowa Posts: 7,354 Thanks: 454 Thanked 4,542 Times in 2,947 Posts Mentioned: 59 Post(s) Tagged: 5 Thread(s)	Ran a trigger test. No cam signal. Either sensor is bad or the wiring is wrong. One wire checks to ground, the other 2 have 5v. Pretty sure one should have 12v so I suspect wiring problem. Fixing this will likely since my idle/start issues

06-08-2019, 11:23 PM	#142
Ashikabi Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Drives: 2013 FR-S Location: Northwest Iowa Posts: 7,354 Thanks: 454 Thanked 4,542 Times in 2,947 Posts Mentioned: 59 Post(s) Tagged: 5 Thread(s)	So the Hydra Nemesis doesn't use the cam sensor. So I checked cam timing (this is a massive fucking pain in the ass. 100% check this before installing your engine) it seemed to me to be misaligned so I got a new timing kit. Trick Flow, double chain

06-11-2019, 09:07 PM	#144
Ashikabi Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2014 Drives: 2013 FR-S Location: Northwest Iowa Posts: 7,354 Thanks: 454 Thanked 4,542 Times in 2,947 Posts Mentioned: 59 Post(s) Tagged: 5 Thread(s)	I drove it again. New chain apparently made a huge difference. I've still got the same throttle body problem though: idle is very high and there is pretty intense suction on the throttle plate. Idle AFR is about 17. Maybe there is so much suction because of how fast the motor is turning? But how can it turn that fast with no air? When you get on the throttle the pedal is SIGNIFICANTLY stiffer when the motor is running until you get it cracked open a little then it frees up. But only when the motor is running. Also, when you first get on the throttle the RPM dips significantly as if that initial throttle opening is actually choking the motor. After being opened, the throttle plate doesn't really want to close again. But only while the car is running. How can I fix this guys?

User Name		Remember Me?
Password