09-30-2014, 11:50 AM | #113 |
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Props to @DarrenDriven @mig86 and @stugray
First off to the people who see this as a waste of time... You have no idea how worth it this mod is when you're at the track or an autox and you realize you forgot to turn traction control off as your car falls on its face. Some of us pay good money to compete and something like this can save you from a wasted run or two. Anyways. My car was built for racing so I'm going to do whatever it takes to make it race ready when the car turns on. I'm a network engineer with some programming background as well, so I love to automate things. I already have a couple 2-way switches mounted in the ignition cover with 1 prepped for exactly this. I've been planning on ordering a time delay relay to complete the setup since the ECU knows after 30 seconds of the "button" being engaged to lock the system out. During the mean time when I start the car I've just been flipping my 2-way back to the off position once the lights pop up on the dash after starting. @stugray You mentioned exactly what I was wanting to do long term with using an Arduino simply so I could tie other needs into 1 unit later on. I actually already have a beetle I've been waiting on to arrive so I'll be going that route while leaving the factory setup functional as a backup. I'll let you know how the finished product works. @mig86 Your concerns on voltage spikes/unstable current due to it being a car are also very legitimate concerns. If I didn't already have a board on the way, I'd probably go with my original plan that I've been sitting on stalling with ordering a relay. Anyways... I have a couple ideas to give a go for safe power. I'll post here once I have the time to do my install. |
09-30-2014, 01:17 PM | #114 | |
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The microcontroller would need to be wired into the Engine temp sensor, the brake pedal switch, and the e-brake switch. When the car is started the micro would need to trick the engine temp sensor to make the system think it is warmed up ( switch in a fixed value resistor), then execute the switch closures to simulate the brake-brake-ebrake-ebrake, etc sequence, then switch back in the engine temp sensor. I have even traced all of the wires for this except I havent figured out how to tell the micro that you JUST started the engine (I think you have 30 seconds to complete the pedal dance). My car is push to start, So I have not figured out where to get a signal to the micro that says: "Just started". The tach would work if I went that route. As for clean power, you can use a $10 cigarette lighter phone charger for the +5VDC if you dont have the stereo. |
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09-30-2014, 04:16 PM | #115 | |
There are now 2 carseats!
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I've thought of this microcontroller route as well. I think the easier/more correct way of doing this is via the CANBUS. Sniff the bus when doing the pedal dance and try to replicate the result. It might take a little work, but if it could be figured out you could do it by plugging in a microcontroller and something like this guy: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9555 One could then sell these like hotcakes (and possibly have a liability issue on their hands). |
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09-30-2014, 05:59 PM | #116 | |
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09-30-2014, 10:04 PM | #117 |
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I have a sniffer. So I'll give it a go and report back.
CAN bus might be handy for detecting the engine start... bu I doubt you will be able to trigger this mode with a message on the bus. We will see Sent from my GT-I9100T using Tapatalk |
10-01-2014, 11:36 AM | #118 | |
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Also I recall someone earlier in this thread saying if you remove the factory steering wheel all nannies are automatically off. I'd like to clarify that this is false. I have an aftermarket hub & wheel but doesn't change the nannies whatsoever. |
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10-02-2014, 12:12 AM | #119 |
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I'd be down for a plug and play kit. $20-30?
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10-02-2014, 12:39 AM | #120 |
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Based on parts prices more like $50 to $70.
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10-02-2014, 02:06 AM | #121 |
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@USN.Spence In about a week I'll post details of my setup with cost and all. I'm trying to do it for as cheap as possible and wouldn't mind doing setups for others.
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10-02-2014, 02:23 AM | #122 |
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In terms of removing the steering wheel. If the 'spiral cable' is removed this will stop the VSC working (steering angle sensor). However the traction control should still operate.
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10-02-2014, 04:01 PM | #123 |
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This is awesome!
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10-10-2014, 11:57 PM | #124 |
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Hey Guys,
So I received all of my supplies last weekend. Slowly worked on the prototyping to get the car side of the microprocessor working and the control side(2-way switch). Happy to report I was able to put the needed time into finishing this up tonight. Everything has been tested and works flawlessly with the car. I do however plan on doing a good week of testing after the full clean install tomorrow just to make sure nothing decides to melt... Until then, here are a few pics. One is a screenshot of the serial output while the device was running in the car. |
The Following User Says Thank You to joshb86 For This Useful Post: | stugray (10-11-2014) |
10-11-2014, 12:06 AM | #125 | |
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How many lines of code? And how come you didnt use the Arduino IDE (just curious) |
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10-11-2014, 12:22 AM | #126 | |
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80 lines of code and that's only because I put in a lot of extra checks for stability. You can hammer the switch back and forth trying to confuse it and it will know to ignore you. I actually did use the Arduino IDE. I'm on a mac so it might look different if you're used to the Windows version. I'll make a video and take more pics inside the car tomorrow when I have good light OH and another reason I wanted to go the Arduino route is for tying in other things I planned on doing... like a boost gauge. Using a microprocessor correctly, I can do everything I want with a single unit. Fantastic. I'm glad you mentioned the beetle. I would have probably just used another board but this project seemed like a perfect way to put this board to use. The size is wonderful. |
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