Subaru trying to deny my warranty please help!

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Romanov

I've had this happen during a parking ramp where my lights were on for about an hour. Battery was low but everything on the inside was working (headunit, lights ect). Just wouldn't start/crank. I Rolled it down the ramp and popped the clutch to start it.

I would definitely look into seeing if another battery would start the car. Jumps don't always work.

Yep. These cars seem to be susceptible to even the lowest voltage/amperage drop. At 12 no issue at 11.5 not a hope it will start no matter how many of the lights and accessories seem to be OK.
I am amazed at how many people I have seen here complain the car would not start and look for major issues without a simple check of the battery first.


$10 almost anyplace that sells tools. Everybody should have one.

[extrashaky]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

$10 almost anyplace that sells tools. Everybody should have one.

Once or twice a year Harbor Freight runs a coupon for a free multimeter with any purchase. It's not a good multimeter, but it's fine to throw in the trunk for the rare instance you actually need one and don't want to leave your Fluke in the trunk.

It's also not a bad idea to pick up one of those $40 battery tender/checker/charger units. I got one on clearance at Home Depot. I went off and left my BRZ for three weeks, and of course it was dead when I got home. Plugged it in and was driving it an hour later. I used the same unit to confirm the battery in my Jeep was gone rather than guessing or having to tote it to an auto parts store.

[krayzie]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

$10 almost anyplace that sells tools. Everybody should have one.

That's a pretty impressive digital multimeter for just $10 bucks!!!

I just picked up a Ctek battery tender the other week on sale, after I topped up my battery with distilled water the Ctek charged it right up overnight.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by krayzie

That's a pretty impressive digital multimeter for just $10 bucks!!!

https://www.amazon.com/ELIKE-T-92-Se...A34BEJZCH79W3P

[justatroll]

Originally Posted by krayzie

That's a pretty impressive digital multimeter for just $10 bucks!!!

Yeah I "Elike" how they intentionally made the logo look like "Fluke" to the casual glance.
I read where a huge shipment of DMMs from China was seized and destroyed by Customs because the models looked exactly like a fluke model.

I have found the the biggest flaw in the cheap DMMs (like the HF one) is the dial/knob, they break easily.
Treat them like they are made of glass and they will work fine.
You can drop a 'REAL FLUKE' > 10 feet onto concrete or abuse the dial and not break it.
You get what you pay for, but I agree a $10 DMM is better than none.

[krayzie]

^^^ Yea I just noticed that lol!!!!

This is why all the high end electronics stores closed down in recent years around my hood (when a Fluke 177 was going for almost $300CAD with tax ouch) and the only one expanding is the one that sells surpluses and also Chinese clones along with the legit lineup.

[justatroll]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

This all day long.
All the ECU statements are red herrings. The ECU being a problem would not prevent the car from turning over.

A fubar ECU absolutely WOULD keep the engine from turning over. it is a push button start.

Although a slightly low battery would not make the ECU misbehave like the dealer has described.

However I would not trust the dealer at this point.
I am surprised the thread has gone on this long.
I would have had the car towed to another dealer by now

[mav1178]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

Didn't realize there were two threads going on for this.

More like 6 threads in separate subforums.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by justatroll

Yeah I "Elike" how they intentionally made the logo look like "Fluke" to the casual glance.
I read where a huge shipment of DMMs from China was seized and destroyed by Customs because the models looked exactly like a fluke model.

I have found the the biggest flaw in the cheap DMMs (like the HF one) is the dial/knob, they break easily.
Treat them like they are made of glass and they will work fine.
You can drop a 'REAL FLUKE' > 10 feet onto concrete or abuse the dial and not break it.
You get what you pay for, but I agree a $10 DMM is better than none.

Ya I chuckled when I saw the "Elike" as well. For checking batteries 98% of the guys here only need something cheap. I actually do have a Fluke but gets used for many other things as well.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by mav1178

More like 6 threads in separate subforums.

Oh I haven't browsed that far. Do any say the battery was checked?

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by justatroll

A fubar ECU absolutely WOULD keep the engine from turning over. it is a push button start.

Although a slightly low battery would not make the ECU misbehave like the dealer has described.

However I would not trust the dealer at this point.
I am surprised the thread has gone on this long.
I would have had the car towed to another dealer by now

The starter circuit runs through the ECU on the push button? I could understand it turning over but not starting but it should still turn over even with push start.

[krayzie]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

The starter circuit runs through the ECU on the push button? I could understand it turning over but not starting but it should still turn over even with push start.

This is why I suggested holding the key right up against the start button to try first in case his key battery is going dead. It's like a 3 way link between the key, start button, and immobilizer.

[Jordan Silveira]

@Summerwolf The idea that the battery went flat is definitely a possibility. The doors were left open for the entirety of the tint installation.


@Braces I'll definitely keep you posted on the outcome whenever that long awaited day arrives.


@Tcoat Damn! I must admit I have been waiting for input from you Tcoat! Glad it's finally come. I will definitely look into putting a new battery in. Just so I'm clear though, you're saying its normal to have every single electric feature available but still not be able to crank because of low battery? Also, according to Steve99 if the battery were to flat out it would cause my ECU readings to hit "0" but if a battery were indeed "flat" wouldn't that mean absolutely no power to do electrical things? Lastly, what would be the reason for the flashing immobilizer light if it was indeed battery related? Also, sorry Tcoat and Mav1178 I created multiple threads so that I could gather as much feedback as possible. I didn't want to just post in one thread for fear that certain members never check that section and thus I lose input.


@Romanov thanks for the input, it seems that this battery stuff is a reoccurring issue. Crazy to think for a 30k car.

[krayzie]

Originally Posted by Jordan Silveira

Just so I'm clear though, you're saying its normal to have every single electric feature available but still not be able to crank because of low battery?

Yes this is correct, put an OBD-II reader on the CAN-BUS and it might show a fault for low battery voltage preventing crank like I told you earlier on this thread, while all other electronics will still power on.