DS sway bar

[Shneegle]

Originally Posted by cjd

I'm not sure no rear bar will be the ticket on stock springs.

Have you tried it? It works surprisingly well.

Also what can it hurt, its free to remove it? He can at least try it. If it doesn't make the car feel better to him then he can just put it back on and buy a front bar.

[cjd]

Originally Posted by Shneegle

Have you tried it? It works surprisingly well.

Also what can it hurt, its free to remove it? He can at least try it. If it doesn't make the car feel better to him then he can just put it back on and buy a front bar.

I suppose it depends what you're after, and as you say is free. I'm still not sure it'll provide a net gain.

[bslate3]

I was running the Perrin 19mm front bar on full stiff with Koni shocks cranked way up in the front and not as much in the back. The car was very neutral with just a tiny bit of steady state understeer that was manageable enough that I could get on the throttle early exiting slower corners.

The bar without the Konis was an under steering mess. The shocks really woke up the whole suspension.

[TrqlessWonder]

Originally Posted by Shneegle

Have you tried it? It works surprisingly well.

Also what can it hurt, its free to remove it? He can at least try it. If it doesn't make the car feel better to him then he can just put it back on and buy a front bar.

I have. It only works okay-ish if you've got nothing else available to work with. Better than nothing, but still the wrong answer. IMO, more wrong than leaving it all-factory.

What happens is the back end rolls severely (surprise!). That allows but also demands very big and coarse inputs to get the car to do much of anything. It won't ever come completely around, but it will move around a lot and allows way too much body roll to be truly effective, the car never really takes a set.

For those of us in the snow belt, it's kind of the "cleats indoors" feeling you get out of the rear on those first couple of lane changes on a new set of snows. Turn wheel, flop over, hit stops, finally load up suspension, then change of direction happens, except, whoops!!! Too much input, time for a mid-corner correction. Wait!! Too much again!! Another correction, back the other way....you see where this goes.

You end up going more slowly because you can't get the car to change directions. I found it to be worse than the amount slower I needed to go in order to keep the back end behind me.

Even easier than removing the whole bar to try it, do what I did. Go to a big event, run with it simply disconnected on Saturday, read your results in impound, and respond accordingly. For me, hanging on to an only slightly twitchy car works better (is faster) than making it flop all over the place like a Buick.