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07-05-2012, 09:58 PM | #1 |
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Keeping your opti-coated car clean with as little effort as possible
Note: Where you see blue text, it means I’m still looking for clarification and advice, ideally from experienced practitioners/detailers/suppliers. Once we get to a resolution I'll edit this post to make it seem much simpler.
The detail in this post might suggest I’m some kind of detailing freak who wants to spend hours cleaning his car. The truth is the complete opposite, as I enjoy driving the car not washing it. So I’m just trying to determine the right gear and processes that will allow me to spend the minimum amount of time and effort keeping my car looking somewhat proud (this post is definitely not about concours level outcomes). Regarding cost, Joel from ZAS has kindly offered members of the forum a 20% discount on Optimum products. I have provided links to the products that form a "kit" below. I will look to update the kit links and possibly divide into cost grades as more information becomes available. This post assumes:
The order to do things is just common sense, really. Think about where there will be runoff and ensure that you don’t start with panels that will have runoff fall on them later, when you do other areas of the car. To spell it out, the sequence is: Roof, Windows, Bonnet, Front spoiler, Boot, Side panels, Rear diffuser, Wheels. Here's a quick video illustrating the basic concept: [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WL5A29qIjnc&feature=related"]video[/ame] Preparation:
Joel from Zen Automotive Suppliers has kindly offered 20% discount off Optimum products. Please contact him for details on how to obtain this. Note I am in no way affiliated with ZAS and receive no additional benefits. For convenience, here are links to form the "kit":
Last edited by LeftFootBrake; 07-16-2012 at 01:48 AM. |
The Following 12 Users Say Thank You to LeftFootBrake For This Useful Post: | a.beck (12-09-2012), dangerfield (07-05-2012), dokterdewe (04-16-2013), FT86_Zero (08-19-2012), GaN-MaN (07-08-2012), Nambo (12-09-2012), nix (12-09-2012), primetime (08-21-2012), Satu23 (07-06-2012), Seanus (12-09-2012), st162celica (07-05-2012), sticky (07-05-2012) |
07-05-2012, 11:18 PM | #2 |
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Wow, amazing. I felt the need to break from my lurking ways and make an account to say thanks!
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07-05-2012, 11:35 PM | #3 |
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When it comes to generally (non-optiguard specific) cleaning your car this is a fantastic tutorial...
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X0Sqi1lAj1A"]Audi R8 BLACKBIRD: Basic Car Wash Techniques - DRIVE CLEAN - YouTube[/ame] |
07-06-2012, 12:04 AM | #4 | |
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time to get buy a whole bunch of brushes and extra buckets. Thanks for the post @sticky! |
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07-06-2012, 12:40 AM | #5 | |
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If your looking at buying car wash products have a look on Amazon. It's a hell of a lot cheaper than any aussie store if you buy multiple items at once. |
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07-06-2012, 02:15 AM | #6 |
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Great informative post!
Everyone has their personal favorite detailing products so there is no right or wrong. Gear for body panels: Washing liquid: Optimum’s No Rinse Wash & Shine if you cant do a proper wash, or any car wash shampoo is fine, personally i prefer Optimum Car Wash. Washing media: Bowdens Own Muffy Sponge, suds up very well and has a microfibre layer on both sides or a Microfibre Wash Mitt Drying media: Initial wipe down: Optimum Edgeless Microfibre Cloth 40x40cm (2 or more). Final wipe down: Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel 60x90cm. Personally i would skip the "Initial Wipe" step, you want to minimize the amount of wiping your doing on the paint so go straight to the Optimum Waffle Weave and either pat dry or do small wipes, not long sweep ones across the paint that could induce marring. Gear for windows: Washing liquid: As Above Washing media: As Above Drying media: As Above You may want to finish with the Optimum Microfibre Towel to buff off any visible streaks. Gear for wheels & tyres: Washing liquid: As Above Washing media: Brush for inners - Like the Viking one sold by ZAS. And a small sponge for the face/spokes of the wheels. Drying media: Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel (Separate to the body ones) Gear for exhaust tips: Washing liquid: As Above Washing media: Small Sponge Drying media: Microfibre Towel Gear maintenance: Lake Country Big Blue Foam Sponge: How do we maintain it? How long is it expected to last? Being foam there is no real maintenance just flush it with clean water after each use. Optimum Edgeless Microfibre Cloth: Washing Machine - with a gentle detergent such as Eucalyptus Wash. Dont use anything with softners etc. Optimum Waffle Weave Drying Towel: As Above. If you keep on top of the regular cleaning it will make cleaning areas like inside the wheels and exhaust tips a breeze as it will only be light dirt not a build up of contamination. I'd also add cleaning inside the wheels arches to your list, a lot of people miss this and your plastic guards end up turning brown. A quick wash of them each time will keep them nice and black and contamination free. I'd also suggest washing wheels first not last, because you run the risk of the water drying on the paint and windows (water spotting) especially in the summer months whilst you are fiddling around cleaning wheels. Any suds that get on them from washing the car can just be hosed off anyway when rinsing the paint. Another basic wash guide with instructions and steps can be found here: http://www.detailparadise.com.au/sho...rying-Your-Car Happy Washing! Last edited by SuperiorShine; 07-06-2012 at 03:21 AM. |
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07-08-2012, 06:53 AM | #7 | |||
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Thanks. And back atcha for all the contributions, which I will integrate into the original post (over the next few days). Quote:
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07-16-2012, 01:40 AM | #8 |
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Won't have a chance to update the original post for a while. In the meantime...
Ordered the "kit" in the first post from Joel/ZAS early in the morning and had the safely packaged parcel in my hands the next day. Nice. Also ordered the following wheel wash media: http://www.zas.com.au/product/495/vi...el_brush_.html http://www.zas.com.au/product/497/vi...cle_brush.html I haven't washed a car for years (always outsource it), but did my first "no rinse" wash on Saturday following everything in the first post except for using a 1L pressure sprayer (using "Quick Detailer" dilution ratios) to do the step 2 "pre soak". Result was a treat. Also separately did some very quick spot detailing on Sunday, just to try the bucketless approach detailed here: http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=138013. If you're thinking of doing this I recommend reading the thread in detail as you could do harm if you don't follow it carefully. Also be aware I used QD dilution ratios. Result was great. Further reading indicates lots of debate about whether you need two buckets. I feel reassured by the wash bucket remaining clean but others (including ONR's inventor, I believe) swear the whole brilliance of the ONR product is that it's unnecessary. If you're interested, here is some related reading: http://optimumforums.org/index.php?showtopic=892 http://www.detailingworld.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=195294 Handy tips: Wash bucket dilution ratio: 2 caps per 8 litres. Pressure sprayer dilution ratio: 2 caps per 1/2 litre. (2 caps = 1oz; 1 US gallon = ~3.8 litres) |
08-19-2012, 02:59 PM | #9 |
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The Audi video is just how I used to wash my car.
Now, lets get dirty and start washing next week when I get my opticoat.
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12-09-2012, 02:28 AM | #10 |
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Any tyre shine and interior product suggestions?
BTW, the process described in my previous posts continues to work a treat. Other than the rock chips (which merely add character, of course ) I'd defy you to know the car's approaching 6 months old.
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12-09-2012, 03:44 AM | #11 |
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LFB i'm using an opposite drying method. Large size microfibre waffle weave towel, gently 'draped' over the panels to soak up the majority of water, then a smaller hand sized microfibre for spot drying / traditional chamois work.
One of the issues I'm having at the moment is stubborn water spots, usually on the roof. I am finding I have to wait until the second wash to get some of them off, if the car has been rained on then taken direct sun before it was washed. I could just wash them out with a bit of elbow grease on the first wash, but try to use at little pressure as possible to avoid swirls. I'm considering a foam gun attachment for my pressure washer for presoaking, but have read about 65% negative reviews saying that they achieve very little.
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12-09-2012, 05:05 AM | #12 | |||
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Regarding my questions about interior and tyre care, I'm currently thinking of heading in the following direction:
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12-09-2012, 05:24 AM | #13 |
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Find a good local car wash with an effective spot free rinse. I now wash my car and after it has been rinsed I drive straight to the car wash and give it a spot free rinse. So I don't use a chamois at all
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12-09-2012, 07:31 AM | #14 | |
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Glad to see you still around mate! How's your car holding up? Meguiars endurance tire gel or optimum tire shine for the tyres. Endurance is more glossy and both last about 5 weeks. Contrary to popular belief modern interior trims do not need any coating/conditioning unless your specifically after a glossy finish. In that case use 303 Aerospace protectant which leaves a nice matt finish. You don't want to go too glossy (like Armorall, dont get me started on that) otherwise you'll drive into a tree from the glare. Frank |
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