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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 08-28-2013, 03:54 PM   #785
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Originally Posted by DJCarbine View Post
Did you have to remove the supercharger?
It's probably possible to do without pulling the supercharger bracket, yeah you just pop the hose clamps and back out the bracket bolts, blower comes back enough to get the old belt out, new belt goes in, done.

Obviously if your belt came apart there'll be some rubber bits to blow out and some black marks to hit with some Simple Green, all in all not a bad belt swap for a blower car.
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:02 PM   #786
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It's probably possible to do without pulling the supercharger bracket, yeah you just pop the hose clamps and back out the bracket bolts, blower comes back enough to get the old belt out, new belt goes in, done.

Obviously if your belt came apart there'll be some rubber bits to blow out and some black marks to hit with some Simple Green, all in all not a bad belt swap for a blower car.
Awesome. Everyone says you have to remove the blower, I figured you only needed to loosen it up a bit to get clearance... I'll have to try it when belt change time comes around
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Old 08-28-2013, 04:25 PM   #787
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In all of the kits I've installed, I noticed that on some cars the foam that sits on the bumper beam tends to really make the bumper sit snug, some more than others. On one occasion, I accidentally left the foam off of our car & the bumper went on pretty easily. I immediately pulled the bumper off & put the foam back in, then noticed it took a little bit of effort to get the upper mounting holes (between the headlights) to line up. Of course, you DON'T want to run without the foam, but I would check to make sure that the foam isn't wedged in there crooked.

Keep in mind, the corners of the bumper (behind the side marker) are held in place by those plastic push pins. If one of those is broken or on the verge of breaking, it won't take much for it to come off. I'd pop off the side marker & have a peek at the plastic tabs to see if they're still there.

As for the squeaking, check the oil level & make sure you're good there. Also, pull the belt off & check it for signs of contact. Spin all of the idler pulleys & supercharger pulley by hand & make sure they spin smoothly. If either one of them takes a bit of effort to spin, that'll most likely be your culprit.

If you have any other questions, feel free to shoot me a PM!
so wait, why is it bad to run without the foam?
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:24 PM   #788
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I need to go back and re-dyno now that I fixed a boost leak... and this time on full E85 (this was at ~70% ethenol). Obviously this dyno seems to read a bit low... I overlayed 3 charts in photoshop but should be pretty close to perfect. I'll be getting actual overlays from the dyno over the next few weeks after further testing.

Stock Auto VS Visconti dyno tuned flex fuel with intake & exhaust vs me 100% stock other than vortech + 3.125" pulley (with stock snorkel etc) + 540cc injectors & pump fa20club flex fuel kit. All stock exhaust etc.

I will be scheduling to go back for further testing & to get a plot where we actually take the car to redline. (which isn't a huge deal but hey i want some bragging rights!). I will see about hitting a dynojet once it cools down a bit as well as its hard to find any time when its below 100F out here in Phoenix. Hopefully on the Maha I will tap ~320WHP on pure E85 when I go back! Hopefully I will have time here soon to compare the 3.48 vs 3.33 vs 3.125, i have plots on multiple fuels on 3.48, and will be going back to 91 octane for a new comparison on the 3.33 & 3.125 later.

I will later be posting my innovate vs vortech comparison results once we get on the dyno a few more times & i get the original plots.

And a HUGE thanks to @FA20Club.com for flying out to Phoenix for two days to get these cars dialed in.

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Old 08-28-2013, 05:34 PM   #789
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I will be scheduling to go back for further testing & to get a plot where we actually take the car to redline. (which isn't a huge deal but hey i want some bragging rights!). I will see about hitting a dynojet once it cools down a bit as well as its hard to find any time when its below 100F out here in Phoenix. Hopefully on the Maha I will tap ~320WHP on pure E85 when I go back! Hopefully I will have time here soon to compare the 3.48 vs 3.33 vs 3.125, i have plots on multiple fuels on 3.48, and will be going back to 91 octane for a new comparison on the 3.33 & 3.125 later.

I will later be posting my innovate vs vortech comparison results once we get on the dyno a few more times & i get the original plots.

And a HUGE thanks to @FA20Club.com for flying out to Phoenix for two days to get these cars dialed in.

Thanks man, I will have the dyno videos and interviews up next week, detailing all of this. If you can get me anymore dyno plots that would help.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:42 PM   #790
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Thanks man, I will have the dyno videos and interviews up next week, detailing all of this. If you can get me anymore dyno plots that would help.
If you want any specifics text me, ill be going by goodspeed to re-dyno here early next week most likely. I just need to catch up on some work first for a deadline coming up. That damn belt screwed me up work wise, im off by a day, i was hoping to go tues/wed this past week for a re-dyno.

I also have that pic i forgot to send you of the board, ill get that to you tonight.

Thanks again for flying out, it was a blast having you there! Just dont ever forget...

I don't want to talk about it *shakes head*.
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Old 08-28-2013, 05:56 PM   #791
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If you want any specifics text me, ill be going by goodspeed to re-dyno here early next week most likely. I just need to catch up on some work first for a deadline coming up. That damn belt screwed me up work wise, im off by a day, i was hoping to go tues/wed this past week for a re-dyno.

I also have that pic i forgot to send you of the board, ill get that to you tonight.

Thanks again for flying out, it was a blast having you there! Just dont ever forget...

I don't want to talk about it *shakes head*.
Thanks message me the board and the dyno plots. I have the Innovates but get me that, the top NA and yours.

Get your car running right. I was afraid to drive it. It was a like hanging out with a hot girl only to realize when you ready to get to first base she starts having a seizure and passes out.
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Old 08-28-2013, 06:03 PM   #792
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Thanks message me the board and the dyno plots. I have the Innovates but get me that, the top NA and yours.

Get your car running right. I was afraid to drive it. It was a like hanging out with a hot girl only to realize when you ready to get to first base she starts having a seizure and passes out.
... I have actually been in almost an identical situation to the one you just mentioned. LOL!

And it runs great now, I smacked my cluster at one point because i thought it was broken because the needle wasn't moving. nice and solid now! Apparently that damn line was leaking for a while =/ I will be clamping it this weekend and flushing the fluids out before i hit the dyno.

To anyone going above 9psi: check the hose under driver side of the manifold. It is right under the fuel line that goes to the passenger side and has a braid over it. There are NO CLAMPS, this does leak in most scenarios, and if it falls off the car while driving you are in for a fun surprise!
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:09 PM   #793
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Manifold need not be removed for clamping!
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:10 PM   #794
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Manifold need not be removed for clamping!
Can you do a quick rundown on how to do it? I tried getting my hand in there and its impossible!
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:24 PM   #795
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Manifold need not be removed for clamping!
Please do tell how to clamp this without removing the manifold
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:44 PM   #796
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On mine for ample room I remove the upper charge pipe and the throttle body. And the ac compressor!!

1.) Remove upper pipe and throttle body.

2.) Under throttle body, look underneath and towards the pass fender
You will find this vacum egr port coming out of the manifold clamp there!Note: this is the one everyone forgets

3.) On the back side of the manifold driver side is the 10mm nut that bolts
The egr solenoid to the manifold. Remove nut Hopefully you have self ratcheting wrench

4.) Optional step removing AC Compressor for turbo guy should be a
walk in the park remove 3 14mm bolts lay compressor to the side also remove accessory belt.
VORTECH USERS SEE BELOW
5). Pull on the hose coming off the port (the one we clamped)

6.) Clamp the hose on the egr solenoid and I believe there is another hose
Coming of solenoid going to fuel pressure regulator clamp that too.



Vortech users attention! if you chose to remove ac compressor which I chose to do. The compressor will come out when you tug on it. Putting it back in is a total pain in the scotum. The compressor must be pushed back into place with the 2 14mm mounting holes being the biggest issue to line up. use a short Phillips head to pre align holes before attempting to thread bolts use anal lube on bolts to counter the affect of cross threading which is as bad as getting your prince albert piercing stuck in your zipper. it was pretty difficult but it is possible.
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Old 08-28-2013, 09:45 PM   #797
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On mine for ample room I remove the upper charge pipe and the throttle body. And the ac compressor!!

1.) Remove upper pipe and throttle body.
2.) Under throttle body, look underneath and towards the pass fender
You will find this vacum egr port coming out of the manifold clamp there!
Note: this is the one everyone forgets
3.) On the back side of the manifold driver side is the nut that bolts
The egr solenoid to the manifold. Remove nut
4). Pull on the hose coming off the port (the one we clamped)
5.) Clamp the hose on the egr solenoid and I believe there is another hose
Coming of solenoid going to fuel pressure regulator clamp that too.
Going to check this weekend. Thanks!
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Old 08-28-2013, 11:27 PM   #798
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I remove nothing to do the hose under the manifold, its all about steadyness, patience, and remaining very very calm, think surgery
I DO move the one hose out of the way thats clipped into the manifolds side clips

raising the car helps

use the right tools, angled pliers for spring clips and for angling the screw driver I trim off about 4mm of a plastic tab when using a screw clamp, but depending on how you angle tthe screw clamp that may not be needed

using the OE 'holes' they provide for your screwdriver to reach the clamp
think it thru and position the screw part of the clamp right

its all technique, the hose under manifold is done with both hands, and without removal of compressor or TB
stand on driver side
right hand behind manifold
left hand in front
both hands palms down
use both pointer fingers to locate the nozzle, carefully start hose
depending on whether you use a spring clip clamp or a screw clamp its a bit different from there



belt swap is very ez
also able to be done without removal, undo the two alternator bolts last, swing the entire sc plate back swap belts and wala,

both are solo jobs
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