Caution – Differential Gear Oil Equivalent

[notout86]

For the LSD, has anyone compared the contamination on the magnetic drain plug from the first time they changed the oil with subsequent changes?
I would be interested to know if initial wear is high but reduces after an initial wear-in.

[RJasonKlein]

Originally Posted by notout86

For the LSD, has anyone compared the contamination on the magnetic drain plug from the first time they changed the oil with subsequent changes?
I would be interested to know if initial wear is high but reduces after an initial wear-in.

I've only changed my gear oil once, but am going to change it again within the month - when I do so, I'll check for contamination on the drain plug and let everyone know what I find.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by ATL BRZ

Bump from the grave. Still no definitive answer so I'll just ask. Who is currently using gear oil in their OEM Torsen diffs that have the LS Additives?

I'm running Motul 300LS on the suggestion of @CSG Mike and I have to say I'm happy.

The additives make the diff feel like the ramp angles are steeper and locks up a bit more so it's easier to drive the car with your right foot.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by notout86

For the LSD, has anyone compared the contamination on the magnetic drain plug from the first time they changed the oil with subsequent changes?
I would be interested to know if initial wear is high but reduces after an initial wear-in.

Subsequent changes will result in less and less paste, but it'll never completely be gone.

[roddy]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Subsequent changes will result in less and less paste, but it'll never completely be gone.

+1...I first changed mine at around 2,000kms (~1200 miles), and there was a fair bit of junk on the magnet. The second change was at ~20,000, and there was less there than at 2,000. I change mine once a year, along with the (manual) transmission fluid.

[AZP Installs]

We've been running Motul Gear 300 75w90 in both our Road Race Spec86 Cup car as well as our Project BRZ which has about 10K track miles and 7K street miles on it. No issues with either setup thus far. Along with that we've converted over about 50+ BRZ/FRSs to the Motul Gear 300 with no issues yet.

-mike

[mrk1]

I've been using Motul 75w-90 with no issues. I do think this is being thought into a bit to much in this thread. It's lube. I'm about to swap to a different ratio diff again and picked up some Lucas 75w-90 just because it's locally available. More important then anything is changing the fluid. I don't know why more people don't change the driveline fluid after break in on a new car just like the engine. That first change usually flushes out a good amount of goop.

[notout86]

Originally Posted by AZP Installs

We've been running Motul Gear 300 75w90 in both our Road Race Spec86 Cup car as well as our Project BRZ which has about 10K track miles and 7K street miles on it. No issues with either setup thus far. Along with that we've converted over about 50+ BRZ/FRSs to the Motul Gear 300 with no issues yet.

-mike

Some of the previous postings are about the standard diff and others about the LS Torsen.

So, to be perfectly clear, is that in the standard or LS (Torsen) diff and is that
Motul Gear 300 75w90 or Motul Gear LS 300 75w90 ?

[AZP Installs]

Originally Posted by notout86

Some of the previous postings are about the standard diff and others about the LS Torsen.

So, to be perfectly clear, is that in the standard or LS (Torsen) diff and is that
Motul Gear 300 75w90 or Motul Gear LS 300 75w90 ?

Sorry. All our cars have the LSD so I didn't mention it.

Fluid is Motul Gear 300 75w90 non-LS

Mike

[notout86]

That is interesting. Gosh all this is tricky. Motul's "Which oil for your car" tool recommends the "LS" variety for the BRZ/86 but in their description does not distinguish between "clutch" type and "Torsen" diffs and I was reading somewhere that some oils ok for clutch type are not ok for Torsens. I have suggested to them that they consider re-wording.

My user manual hints caution is needed if not using genuine Toyota which is why I am being cautious.When I asked Toyota about availability it seemed as if they themselves were unsure and other owners said the genuine was poor quality so I started looking for alternatives.

Here you are AZP, with the practical experience with actual racing conditions using the plain oil and it is fine. Can you tell us how you came to use the plain instead of the LS? I am in no way doubting as you have proven the plain is ok.