ALL ARIZONA FR-S/BRZ OWNERS HOME PAGE

[ronnBOi720]

Originally Posted by Sivtec

Although I agree with Yruyur (I do believe you get more than 5hp), I think the biggest reason to get a "stage 1" tune would to be get rid of our terrible torque curve. This way when you step on it, it doesn't take 3 days to respond. That would be MY biggest reason in getting it. Like I said I won't be getting mine till after I get the rest of my exhaust.

Like, comment and PM the guys from Dynocomp, we are trying to get them to be a local tuner which IMO is way better than an out of state one.

https://www.facebook.com/Dynocomp/posts/686162981398540

Lol yeah the comment was Yeah... But i do t do FB anymore. Any other way to get ahold of them? I'm thinking of buying my own cable license so i can do my own. But need to know to do tune first lol

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[SpyderMS]

I appreciate the input from both sides of the discussion. Definitely best to be informed of all the pros and cons. I purchased the extended warranty, and it would suck to void that, but if flashing back to stock is the only thing necessary to get around the warranty issue, I could probably live with that. That being said, it will probably still be some time before I can justify a large amount of cash spent on modification of the car, so I will definitely have time to consider my options

[Accurate Race Shop]

I need to find a way to drive them both at once!

Sent from my Q10

[Yruyur]

Originally Posted by jasper

I need to find a way to drive them both at once!

Sent from my Q10

Easy enough. Put the frs in the trunk of the car on the right. Drive.

Sent from a Motorola DynaTAC 8000X

[chrisbfrs]

Originally Posted by Yruyur

I may have my stock one when im done with this one that I picked up yesterday. According to the airaid install manual you dont have to take the bumber off but just the top fasteners off and lift the bumper cover up to remove it by reaching inside.

Sent from a Motorola DynaTAC 8000X

You can unbutton top and carefully pull snorkel out

Modern Ink Tattoo

[WithNolock]

Originally Posted by sdemo

We're talking about maybe 5hp here. At the wheels, maybe 2. We don't drive turbo vehicles on which a tune is actually useful. This is the ONLY N/A platform's forum on which I've seen tunes so highly recommended.

Adding an intake and exhaust are less expensive and more worthwhile. Sure, you wont get "maximum" gains out of them unless you update fuel trim, etc, but 90% of the gains are in the hardware.

I think you guys should be careful with promoting warranty voiding (and not very worthwhile) practices. In my opinion, the ECU is the absolute LAST part of the upgrading equation.

I had an intake and exhaust before I got my tune. I would have to say that your numbers are a little off. I got much more difference from the ECU tune than from the hardware and I believe that most people on this forums and the dynos they've done would agree with that.

Originally Posted by sdemo

I think you're exaggerating a bit with your pump gas estimate and, to be fair, I'm marginalizing. It is not my contention that gains can't be had, it's that there is an inherent risk associated to modifying one's ECU. To me, it is the last thing that should be touched - after all hardware has been upgraded - and, most of all, the driver has become better than their vehicle.

The most gains are to be made in the driver's seat.

Our ECU tuner has come out with an improvement to the maps to help avoid the DI detonation issues people are having while Toyota/Subaru are still sitting around watching engines fail. Some people have said it's actually safer to drive this car hard with the proper tune that it is with the stock ECU! I wouldn't go that far but I will say that a properly tuned ECU is just as safe as the stock ECU.

[ronnBOi720]

Originally Posted by WithNolock

I had an intake and exhaust before I got my tune. I would have to say that your numbers are a little off. I got much more difference from the ECU tune than from the hardware and I believe that most people on this forums and the dynos they've done would agree with that.



Our ECU tuner has come out with an improvement to the maps to help avoid the DI detonation issues people are having while Toyota/Subaru are still sitting around watching engines fail. Some people have said it's actually safer to drive this car hard with the proper tune that it is with the stock ECU! I wouldn't go that far but I will say that a properly tuned ECU is just as safe as the stock ECU.

Haha sounds good to me. I need to go and buy a cable and licence. You know of any?

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[Sivtec]

Originally Posted by ronnBOi720

Haha sounds good to me. I need to go and buy a cable and licence. You know of any?

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We have a TON of cables floating around so I wouldn't buy that.

[RedLeader]

Originally Posted by Sivtec

We have a TON of cables floating around so I wouldn't buy that.

He lives in Yuma. Bit of a drive every time he needs a retune.


Sent from...somewhere?

[SpyderMS]

Originally Posted by jasper

I need to find a way to drive them both at once!

My g/f's brother and aunt both have 2013 Challenger R/T's. I should get him to bring it out to the P1 track with us sometime :P Of course that won't help you, being 1500 miles away, lol.

Edit: Just realized I think that's an SRT in the pic... different animal

Originally Posted by Yruyur

Easy enough. Put the frs in the trunk of the car on the right. Drive.

hilarious

[ronnBOi720]

Originally Posted by RedLeader

He lives in Yuma. Bit of a drive every time he needs a retune.


Sent from...somewhere?

Haha yeah man fucking sucks balls!

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[ronnBOi720]

Originally Posted by Sivtec

We have a TON of cables floating around so I wouldn't buy that.

Hahaha sounds good but I live in yuma like @RedLeader mentioned. It sucks. Unless y'all have some that I can buy

that's how you can help a brotha out

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[chrisbfrs]

Sunrise at Tortilla Flats

Modern Ink Tattoo

[SpyderMS]

What kind of cable is needed? Cables cost pennies to manufacture... I would think a generic version could be found for cheap, no?