FRS 4.8 LS swap

[kurty85]

Got the downpipes and wastegate pipes completed. Next is the y into the fullblown 3".

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

[kurty85]

I should be good. Need to move the abs module under the cowl.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

[kurty85]

Project has been sitting idle for a while. Ordered all the brake parts today to finish the braking system. ATS-V calipers (received the CTSV brake swap.com brackets a couple months ago), Brembo 2004 STI front rotors, front track day level pads (powerstop pst-1001), Brembo rotors for the rear, and rear track day pads (powerstop pst-1124). It will have manual brakes, so I needed fast grabbing pads. There a couple solutions for replacing rear calipers with two piston but I figure I already have good pads, rotors, and steel braided lines so the rears should be good for now. Last thing is the exhaust to get it running again and start tuning. Planning to piece together the y section in a couple weeks.

[TRS]

Might have missed that out, but why didnt you place the turbos "under the V"? Any specific space restriction or other technical NoGo to place them down there? Just asking since Im also thinking about FI for my LS3.

[kurty85]

There is no room under the v. This was pretty much the only area that had enough room left.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

[kurty85]

Got the ATS-V brakes installed yesterday. 2004 STI 5X100 rotors, ATS-V calipers, cts-v brake swap.com adapters, Prostop track day pads. Brake booster is gone as well as abs module. Using chase bays wilwood master cylinder with baer proportioning valve, stoptech steel braided lines front and rear. New brembo rotors on the rear and pst-1024 pads. Going for fast grabbing setup with lots of initial bite, but also some modulation. Waiting on final hardware kit with J56 pins and clips, then i can bleed the system.

Sent from my SM-G973U1 using Tapatalk

[kurty85]

Having a terrible time bleeding the system. The reservoir is full, all connections are tight and verified no leaks. I removed the master cylinder to verify it is not sticking internally. It is working as I push in the piston with my hand and fluid shoots out of the fitting at the front. I reinstalled the master cylinder, checked all connections again, had my son pushing on the pedal while I checked each corner. No fluid comes out of any caliper at any corner. I have also adjusted the brake bias adjuster all the way in and out and make no difference. Only thing I could possibly think of is that the front is higher than the rear, but that should not matter. Can anyone think of anything that might cause this. Also, when I pump faster with the brake pedal, the fluid in the reservoir shoots up radidly and eventually comes out the vent in the cap. Last thing I also did was swap the bleeders on the front brakes from the bottom to the top. Still made no difference.

[Ashikabi]

Maybe disconnect the lines at each stage to push fluid through each until it stops working? Or maybe you're not pulling in more fluid from the reservoir when you let the pedal up

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5010 using Tapatalk

[ZDan]

"Cadillac" branded calipers is kinda hilarious, in a cool way

[gtpvette]

I'm not quite where you are just yet, have not mounted my CTS-V's (front) and Wilwood's (rear) but I've been looking at bleeding a bit. I'm going to get the Motive Products pressure bleeder. Not too expensive ($58 at Summit) and seems to be well regarded. Works great at flushing the system down the road.

That said,, I'm scratching my head a bit on your issue. You get fluid out of the MC when disconnected from the line,,, but when the line is hooked up and pumped,, backs up in MC. If you disconnect at proportion valve,, do you get fluid there.. if yes,, after proportion valve??

[kurty85]

Getting a vacuum bleeder to pull air out today. Im going to take the top off the proportioning valve and check for fluid also to see what is going on.

[kurty85]

Hooked up the mityvac bleeder and had tons of issues. Would not maintain a vacuum when connected to the bleeder. Leaks through the flare fittings. Did not see any leaks at first then saw little weepage from the lines I had made. I took out all the lines I made and I am redoing my setup. Making sure all the flares are good to go and will test the flares I make with the vacuum bleeder. I am using stainless lines and the flares are a little harder to make due to the hardness. Going to change a few things such as a banjo on the front of the master cylinder. Also discovered the proportioning valve was stuck all the way closed so nothing was getting to the rear brakes.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by kurty85

Having a terrible time bleeding the system. The reservoir is full, all connections are tight and verified no leaks. I removed the master cylinder to verify it is not sticking internally. It is working as I push in the piston with my hand and fluid shoots out of the fitting at the front. I reinstalled the master cylinder, checked all connections again, had my son pushing on the pedal while I checked each corner. No fluid comes out of any caliper at any corner. I have also adjusted the brake bias adjuster all the way in and out and make no difference. Only thing I could possibly think of is that the front is higher than the rear, but that should not matter. Can anyone think of anything that might cause this. Also, when I pump faster with the brake pedal, the fluid in the reservoir shoots up radidly and eventually comes out the vent in the cap. Last thing I also did was swap the bleeders on the front brakes from the bottom to the top. Still made no difference.

Let me ask the obvious thing first: This isn't how the caliper looks right now with the nipple at the bottom of the caliper, right? If so then you need to remove the bleed nipple from the bottom of the caliper and exchange it with the bung on the top or swap the calipers on the other side of the car because the nipple is suppose to be on the top--not the bottom! From the top, as you open the line, fluid fills the caliper like filling a glass with water and pushes air out, but from the bottom, fluid falls out and air gets reintroduced and/or trapped inside the caliper. You will never be able to bleed brakes this way.




The other obvious question is this: are you guys bleeding the system correctly? Is your son pumping the brakes a few times until the system is pressurized? If yes then is he holding pressure on the pedal, while you bleed the caliper of air slowly, so his foot never bottoms out the brake pedal because you close the valve before it does? If his foot bottoms out then fluid will still come out, but air will get sucked back in because his foot is no longer creating pressure. Also, you are starting from the tire furthest from the master cylinder (which is always topped up) and then working your way back, so passenger's-rear, driver's-rear, passenger's-front and then lastly, driver's-front, correct?

If you two are doing it correctly then you might have air stuck in the ABS module, which can be removed by cycling/purging the module using Techstream or by driving the car on a gravel road and slamming on the brakes to engage the ABS then going back home and bleeding the brakes again.

I also suggest making life easy by using speed bleeders below. They make bleeding the brakes a one person job because air can not be reintroduced in the system. I have them:

http://www.russellperformance.com/mc/speed-bleeders/

Edit1: I just saw that ABS and the brake booster is removed. In that case, pumping the brakes shouldn't be useful because there is no booster, so just have your son press and hold firmly. I'll leave what I put above in case anyone needs it for reference. It is most definitely the bleed valves being at the bottom of the caliper. If those were already moved to the top then consider your bleeding technique. Just a note: without power brakes, the pedal will hit the pad in an all or none fashion, but the driver still needs to press much harder to stop faster. This is like trying to measure force using a strain gauge where there is no movement even with increasing levels of force. Similarly, the pedal will not travel further, but more force still needs to be applied to stop faster.

Edit2: Also, there are two nipples on these calipers like my Wilwood calipers. Both need to be bled. I'm pretty sure it is advisable to bleed the outside first and then the inside, but it shouldn't matter as much as bleeding the furthest caliper and working back towards the master cylinder.

[kurty85]

I had already switched the bleed valves to the top of the caliper before I started bleeding. We were pumping and holding but there were leaks in the flare fittings. I bought some new t's, better flare wrenches, and will remake all the flares soon. I ordered speed bleeders before but got the wrong ones due to being too long (a lot of people bought the incorrect ones marked for frs'). The regular bleeders are fine since I am using two people. I had got the passengers side front caliper to get nothing but fluid out with no air but the others not so much. I also discovered the proportioning valve was stuck closed. I am replacing it with a tilton. I am going to redo everything and take all the lessons learned from everyone for anything I might have done wrong. Thank you guys for the help.